Perched on a hill overlooking the market town of Chester-le-Street, Lumley Castle is a relic from the past that’s been brought back to life. The four-star hotel invites guests to step back in time and experience what life would have been like as nobility in the 14th century. Lumley Castle is like a living museum where the finest artefact is the very building in which you lay your head to sleep.
Hotel
Built around 1390 as a fortress and a grand family house, Lumley Castle was the home of the Lumley family for generations until it passed into the hands of the Bishop of Durham in 1800. As part of the University of Durham, students would spend their first year of studies at the castle up until the 1960s when it was sold. No Ordinary Hotels took over and it became a fascinating destination for visitors who want to experience a little piece of history up close and personal.
The team has created a unique and authentic hotel without taking away from the history and charm of the ancient building. They’ve carefully and tastefully created facilities for guests without major changes to the tapestry of the floorplan, instead embracing the low doors, long corridors, secret staircases and vaulted ceilings for the history they represent.
Outside, large lawns roll away from the large stone walls that are adorned with pretty, bright flowers cascading out of stone urns and tumbling out of over-sized hanging baskets. The castle overlooks the rolling greens of Chester-le-Street Golf Club and the meandering River Wear. The hotel stands on the outskirts of the charming market town of Chester, which is a great place to explore, and the bustling city of Sunderland and the dramatic coastline are less than a 30-minute drive away.
Room
We were staying in a castle state suite; the Sir Ralph Lumley suite in fact, named after the brave soldier who built the castle in the late 1300s. He was later arrested and executed for his part in the conspiracy to overthrow Henry IV. Like the man it was named after, our room was grand and regal with an exquisite four-poster bed finished with thick red and gold drapes, a pleated tester with tassels and intricately carved wooden pillars.
Noble portraits and oil paintings in ornate gilded frames adorn the walls which are decorated with patterned wallpaper. Small lamps light the room with a soft, warm glow which isn’t great for putting on make-up but, I expect, is much better than the dull candlelight they would have had back in the 14th century.
While a little tired in places, the rooms have mod cons such as tea and coffee facilities, a TV and a hairdryer. While the large bed dominates the space, there’s also a dressing area framed by a large window and a cosy area to relax in with a glass of red wine, a fresh piece of fruit or a tasty chocolate truffle (all generously left for us as welcome treats!). My favourite feature of the room, however much I love chocolate, is the entrance to the ensuite bathroom which is – as if straight from the pages of The Lion, The Witch and The Wardrobe – through the closet door!
Food
There are lots of different dining and drinking options at Lumley Castle including breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea, while dinner is served in the Knights Restaurant. Head to the snug and cosy bar for an aperitif or venture straight into the vaulted dining room for a formal dinner by candlelight. We started with an apple and elderflower fizz and baby Bellini (both sweet, refreshing mocktails) while we perused the appetising menu.
To start, I opted for the mozzarella spring roll from the vegan menu while my husband decided to go for a classic dish; the prawn and shrimp cocktail. The spring roll was packed full of fiery chilli, tangy spring onion, crunchy vegetables and smooth, creamy vegan mozzarella; wrapped in a thin but crispy pastry, with a sweet and salty soy sauce. I was blown away by the amount of flavour that was packed into the Asian dish and was excited for the next course.
I tried the salmon with crushed new potatoes with a creamy dill sauce and flavoursome roasted onions. The salmon was moist but flaky, with crispy skin, and the warm potatoes fell apart into the rich sauce. The generous portion left me rather full and very satisfied, but I knew I had to make space for dessert, especially once I saw chocolate delice on the menu. The sweet – made up of layers of chocolate sponge, light and airy whipped mousse, gooey oozing salted caramel and covered in a glistening ganache glaze – was absolutely delicious. Although I couldn’t eat it all, the friendly team, who were wonderfully attentive and helpful, boxed it up for us to enjoy in bed later!
After a good night’s sleep we were woken with a start when the fire alarm started loudly ringing in the morning so we headed down to breakfast, back in the Knights Restaurant. There was a varied menu with lots of hot and cold options so I chose the healthy yoghurt, berry compote and granola which was sweet and tasty, even though the granola was a little soggy. The vegetarian options were great so I treated myself to a veggie cooked breakfast with perfectly-cooked poached eggs, sausages, baked beans and hash browns. Yum.
To do
Lumley Castle holds a secret; it’s said to be one of the most haunted sites in County Durham. For centuries, the castle’s halls are said to have been haunted by Lily of Lumley, the former lady of the castle. Now, guests staying at the castle can become detectives and help solve the riddle of what happened to her and help free her soul.
Escape Durham runs the Lily of Lumley game from the dungeons of the castle itself. Your team is sent into the historic castle to investigate the haunting and solve the disappearance of a previous investigator. Solve the riddles, discover the clues, find the keys and work your way through the 600-year-old castle’s rooms to see if you can escape.
I won’t say too much about the game – we don’t want to give you any clues or spoil the fun – but we had a great time, although not without a few jumps and frights! It’s a great, exciting way to spend an evening without having to venture outside the castle’s walls. The game was challenging but we were thrilled to solve the puzzles, free Lily and make it out with five minutes to spare; phew! And just in time for bed!
In a nutshell
Lumley Castle certainly lives up to the hotel group’s motto: no ordinary hotel. This unique and authentic castle is steeped in history and charm, offering guests the chance to relax in four-star comfort and enjoy the regal lifestyle nobility have been enjoying within the four walls for more than 600 years.
Factbox
Escape Durham Lily of Lumley starts from £50 per game (based on two players). Find out more from escapedurham.co.uk/lilyoflumley.
Rooms at Lumley Castle start from £137.10 (bed and breakfast) midweek and from £155.10 (bed and breakfast) for weekends.
Address: Lumley Castle, Ropery Lane, Chester-le-Street DH3 4NX
Phone: 0191 389 1111
Email: hello@lumleycastle.com
Website: lumleycastle.com
