Words by Judith Baker
Best known for its prestigious golf courses, lively beach life and large exclusive hotels with a holiday atmosphere, the Dominican Republic is one of the Caribbean’s most visited destinations. But this diverse country has many undiscovered treasures for those who look beneath the surface.
As well as miles of untouched beaches, fabulous cuisine, natural wonders and dramatic scenery you can find luxurious hotels tucked away in historic colonial houses, magical rainforest lodges and top-end new properties in undeveloped areas as well as the Caribbean’s only vineyard.
From the beautiful countryside of Barahona to the historic capital of Santo Domingo and the less well-known Southern coast, we take a road less travelled to find the Dominican Republic’s hidden gems, which even include a little-known precious blue stone.
Ocoa Bay Vineyard
Sitting in a rustic sun-drenched vineyard with a glass of fine Tempranillo paired with a crumbly white goat’s cheese, you could almost imagine yourself in Spain if it weren’t for the tropical palms and birds, and the crashing waves of the Caribbean Sea.
Ocoa Bay is the only vineyard in the Caribbean. Found in Azua, about one and a half hours from the Dominican Republic’s capital Santo Domingo, its position between the Central Mountains and the sea has a dry climate perfect for cultivating grapes. Your wine tasting continues with a French Colombard of a quality to satisfy any connoisseur.
Maria Claudia and Guillermo Mallarino left careers as oncologists in the USA when they fell in love with this location. ‘We noticed vines growing in gardens’ says Maria Claudia ‘The climate is the same as California so it seemed natural that wine could be produced here’. That has been happening for five years on the 27-acre sustainably run plot, and the couple have plans to open villas and a vineyard hotel. For now you can visit, enjoy lunch and sample some of the finest wines in the New World.
Punta Arena
A number of new projects emerging in the area west of Santo Domingo include Puntarena, the brainchild of Frank Ranieri of Punta Cana fame. Operations manager Jordhan Flordan Gil Mejia said that the development will have four hotels, beachfront condos, a golf course and nature trails. A beach club house and restaurant are already open with breath-taking views and floating dock for the mooring of recreational boats. There is an infinity pool and children’s pool.
Barahona
Barahona is the country’s forgotten province, even though it has some of the most dramatic scenery and incredible biodiversity. Here we find the Oviedo Lagoon with its mangroves and cays, home to iguanas, pelicans, parrots and flamingos.
Barahona is the only place in the world where they mine larimar, a semi-precious stone the colour of the ocean. Locals say larimar can heal a broken heart. You can visit the mine and buy jewellery made with the stone at the little shop here.
But Barahona’s other hidden jewel is the luxurious Casa Bonita tropical lodge which combines adventure, activity and indulgence. It is set on a hilltop with fabulous views out to the coast, a zip line for adrenaline junkies and a relaxing spa for the sybarite. The Lodge is the former Schiffino family summer home, architect-designed using coconut, palm and mahogany.
Today, the third generation of the family encourage visitors to discover gastronomy based on local organic resources. The restaurant looks out over an inviting infinity pool and rooms have views over forest and out to the Caribbean Sea. When not exploring the hiking trails on horseback or bike, visitors can relax at different nearby beaches – San Rafael, Los Patos, Paraíso – and take advantage of the Lodge’s Quemaito Beach Experience, a trip to one of the most exotic but peaceful parts of the Caribbean totally undisturbed by crowds.
Perla Del Sur is a new luxury project in the less developed area of Barahona which will comprise a boutique hotel, villas and apartments, with the hotel due to open next year. Financed by local families, the development is a sustainable project aimed at re-energising the area and benefitting the community. The beautiful property, filled with light, is a stylish ocean facing paradise in an unspoilt, peaceful location.
Santo Domingo
Santo Domingo, the oldest city in the New World, was founded in 1496 by Christopher Columbus’ brother. One of the Caribbean’s most interesting cities, its colonial old town with limestone 16th century buildings boasts the first cathedral, the first monastery and the first hospital built in the Americas.
Santo Domingo also has the first metro system in the Caribbean but it is best to explore the square mile on foot, especially the cobbles of Calle las Damas (Ladies ‘street) which got its name in 1509 when Maria Del Toledo, wife of Diego Columbus, stepped out with the fashionable wives and girlfriends of the day.
Immerse yourself in the atmosphere with a stay at the unusual elegant Casas del XVI in the heart of the Zona Colonial. The hotel is housed in a series of renovated 16th century houses, and upon entering former convent Casa Del Pozo you will feel as though you’ve stepped back in time, as the property is filled with antiques and artworks and features an original well.
Other houses include the Casa Del Disenador, Casa Del Arbol and Casa de Los Mapas. Each house has its own courtyard, dining area and one has a swimming pool. This is really like having your own historic home in the heart of the Zona Colonial and you even get your own personal butler for the duration of your stay.
Opening up
Other new developments in the Dominican Republic to open recently include the lovely Ani Dominican Republic resort, found on the rural north coast, minutes away from some of the best beaches and close to a clifftop golf course. It is set on its own peninsula with great views out to both sea and mountains and features 14 suites, spa, tennis court and waterslides, and with various entertainment pavilions is geared to today’s multi-generational family groups.
