Back in summer 2020, when the world had just awoken from a forced slumber, my husband and I decided to head out west to spend a week in Cornwall. In addition to the aquamarine waters, the laidback vibe, and the gorgeous hikes, it was the thriving food scene that I remember most. Restaurateurs embraced local ingredients without even trying; the bounty of fresh seafood and easily-accessible meat and produce made it a no-brainer.
After eating our way from coast to Cornish coast, it was the little townhouse in Padstow that left the biggest impression on me. Paul Ainsworth at No6 is an icon in the Cornish gastronomic community; having Michelin star status is one thing, but perhaps it’s the way it flies the Cornish flag proudly and authentically that really sets it apart. Though Ainsworth is known as the face of the restaurant, there’s another individual who’s been by his side for over ten years whose stamp is all over the No6 menu and its many successes.
Chris McClurg was named Young Chef of the Year by Observer Food Monthly in 2018 and is currently chef patron at Paul Ainsworth at No6. While he first honed his skills in his native Northern Ireland, McClurg is now a proud Cornwall resident. “I adore Cornwall,” he says. “It was so easy to relocate here and now I really call Kernow home. The people, the beaches, the food scene, I love everything about it. It’s very similar to the west coast of Ireland, a small collection of local people who are really proud of what they have.”
In April this year, McClurg had a second go at the Great British Menu banquet where he made his ‘Derry Girls Sherry Trifle’ whilst representing Northern Ireland. “I was fortunate in that I had a crack at it two years ago. It went well, I came so close, but after chatting with Paul we knew that the ‘unfinished business’, ‘what if’, ‘I wish I had’ feelings would not sit well with us, so I went back for another shot,” explains McClurg.
He shares that with Ainsworth having also cooked at the banquet previously, he was able to share his own tips and support which helped McClurg enjoy the process more the second time around. He says: “I felt well informed, loved being part of it, and highly recommend it to young, hungry cooks. If you are approached to contribute, go do it, push yourself out of your comfort zone and hold your head high no matter where you place in the competition. It takes real guts to put yourself in that place.”
Luxury Lifestyle Magazine writer Ina Yulo Stuve chats with McClurg about how his childhood in Northern Ireland impacted his career journey and the dish at No6 that blows everyone away.
Tell me more about what it was like growing up in Northern Ireland and how your upbringing influenced your food journey.
I guess I was lucky as I’m part of the generation that really embraced change. We are a small but mighty wee island with some truly incredible produce at our fingertips; it is an inspirational place to cook. The vast majority of my childhood was spent with my mum, sister, and our close family friends. Every summer we would be collecting mussels in Killary Fjord, dragging up crab and lobster pots in Portaferry, or catching mackerel on feathers off Old Head Beach. I loved every second of those holidays, it definitely set the foundations for my appreciation of fantastic, quality ingredients.
For a long time, British cuisine did not fare well on the world stage. Why do you think that is and what do you believe were the driving forces in the resurgence we see today?
I find it hard to pigeonhole British cuisine, so I’m not sure it’s as straightforward as ‘British cuisine didn’t fare well’. I feel that chefs in the UK have always had an incredible work ethic, some of the hardest working, most dedicated, focused, and driven kitchens I’ve ever seen in the world are here in the UK. I feel the biggest change of late is that we have started to learn that we are stronger together – those ideas, recipes, procedures, and food cultures can benefit immensely just by communicating better.
When I started cooking in Belfast, every chef I knew and met was so guarded with their recipes – almost as if they were state secrets – and it became almost hostile when someone would try and talk about a dish they had at a ‘competing’ restaurant. At the end of the day, we are all doing the same thing, cooking great produce the best way we know and trying to give our guests the very best experience possible.
Working with such an acclaimed chef such as Paul Ainsworth must be quite the experience. What’s the most important lesson you’ve learned from him in the decade you’ve worked together?
Wow, there’s the multi-million dollar question! Full transparency here, there is no way I can put in a few sentences just what Paul has done for me on a professional and personal level. As you said, A DECADE! When you see it written down, that really hits home. Gosh, it’s gone quick. The best way I can let you in on some of the important lessons we all learn every day is this – Paul has a ‘recipe for life’ that we all try and live by and it includes a few of the following: ‘Work hard and be kind’, ‘Stay humble’, and ‘Value feedback’.
During my meal at No6, I had already been in Cornwall for a few days but the menu managed to introduce so many new Cornish flavours and ways of presenting the local fare. Could you walk me through your menu development?
Our menu development at No6 is primarily led by Paul and myself. We will initiate an idea then put it out to the team to work on their own respective elements, come together with drafts, and everyone will give their feedback. We will then test, hone, perfect, cost, and implement the changes. It can sometimes be a long process but it’s worth every second.
Sometimes ideas come from obvious places, Paul or I may have a dish somewhere that sparks an idea, other times Paul will be driving into Padstow in the morning and phone me and say: “Chris, I’ve had an idea. Get a pen and paper.”
Those creative conversations are my favourite, they often end up in a totally different place to where they started but we go on a journey with it. It’s what I imagine musicians jamming to be like, we sing about Cornwall at every given opportunity. We are so fortunate to have some of the best produce in the country on our doorstep and this, of course, lays the foundation for our seasonal collections. That being said, if we have to travel further afield for world-class ingredients, we will, as nothing is of more importance.
Which dish on the current menu are you most proud of and why?
That’s a hard one! All of the dishes are like our children, we love them equally and you can’t have a favourite child. That being said, one dish that really blows people away every single time is our ‘all of the pigeon’ dish. When we look at what makes a perfect dish, this one really ticks all the boxes, it’s full of heritage, truly world-class produce cooked with flair, care, and beautifully contrasting textures, balanced acidity, and harmonious flavours.
What is the one food trend you wish would just go away?
Apologies in advance to anyone who uses these but I feel we have all seen enough leaf mould tuiles for quite some time.
The hospitality industry has been hit hard recently by staff shortages. How are you tackling this challenge and are there any specific initiatives you’ve implemented to attract new talent?
To be honest, we are very fortunate within The Ainsworth Collection to have great team retention. At No6 we are just about to take the kitchen team to 12 chefs, that’s an incredible team of real depth for a five-day per week operation. We don’t do anything revolutionary, but we look after them, treat each other with respect, pay excellent salaries, and have a healthy working week with time to enjoy being in Cornwall. There are loads of perks working within the Collection but above all else, we are surrounded by good people, and it makes coming to work everyday a joy.
When not at the restaurant, where would we find you drinking and dining?
Sundays are most often spent in The Mariners in Rock with a cold crisp offshore pilsner. I stick to half pints, controversial I know, but I love them super chilled and flowing. It reminds me of drinking half pints of ale at McSorleys in NYC, even if you order a pint, you just get given two halves at the same time, I love it. The buttermilk chicken and The Mariners’ ploughman’s are my go-to dishes.
Factbox
Paul Ainsworth at No6
Address: 6 Middle St, Padstow PL28 8AP
Phone: 01941 532093
Website: paul-ainsworth.co.uk
Instagram: instagram.com/no6padstow, instagram.com/chrismcclurg
