Words by Sara Darling
If you want to find a slice of Italian paradise that has the clearest night sky and brightest stars, you can’t go wrong with the Renaissance il Ciocco Resort and Spa in Northern Tuscany.
The hotel is within easy driving distance from both Pisa and Florence airport with the journey taking less than two hours. Whether you hire a car or get a taxi from the airport, you will be met with spellbinding scenery en route to the hotel, which is just outside the town of Barga.
Your first sight of the hotel will be its grand terracotta exterior and tiered terrace which is crowned by the most opportune outdoor pool, where the azure blue of the pool punctuated by the green of its mountain backdrop will take your breath away. In fact, everywhere the eye can see is like a fairy tale, thanks to the rolling hills, distant vineyards and olive groves which make up the vista whichever direction you look; and the hotel is the jewel in the crown for those looking for an oasis to appreciate it all.
Hotel
The Renaissance brand is notorious for delivering five-star luxury and this property doesn’t disappoint. Nestled over 1,500 acres of landscaped grounds, the hotel is perched above the pristine Serchio Valley, with uninterrupted views from many guest rooms. So much so, Robbie Williams chose this hotel as his base when he headlined a local concert.
Inside the hotel, expect palatial comfort and discreet service, which is manifested as soon as you enter the grand reception area. The open plan check-in desk leads on to several side rooms with original antique furnishings and the bar and restaurants, which lead onto a beautifully parasolled terrace, and a local concierge with first-hand knowledge of the area is always happy to guide you with times and activities in the nearby village.
Due to its tranquil location and understated activities- that stretch to a sauna, massage, perusing the avenue of elegant shops or enjoying a cocktail by the outdoor pool – the hotel mostly attracts couples or friends who just want to switch off and enjoy some peace. Although family suites are available, there is not much for youngsters to do.
Room
The resort has 180 rooms spread across two buildings and seven floors. All are elegantly finished with a blend of traditional Tuscan styling and contemporary touches. Each room boasts wall-to-wall carpeting, crisp white bedding and a range of pillows, classic photographs of Italy in black frames, mid century modern mirrors and arm-chairs, and a lovely marble bathroom.
The rooms at the front of the property come with a higher price tag, but for that, you get a spacious balcony and uninterrupted views of the magnificent Serchio Valley, Apuan Alps and the pool, where you can get lost in the panoramic scenery and twinkling lights from the surrounding villages in the evening. Alternatively, the rooms at the rear of the hotel have a more modest outlook over the hotel’s spa extension, however this doesn’t deter from the room’s contemporary design and airiness.
Food
The hotel has three options for wining and dining: Le Salette which serves typical Tuscan dishes, and, whatever you order, will be delivered with lashings of bread and olive oil, which is an everyday essential in the region. It’s worth booking in for at least one dinner on the terrace as watching the sunset here is magical.
Meat eaters will love the selection of heartier beef dishes, and there is plenty to please the pescatarians, but I personally enjoyed the Papa al Pomodoro, a hearty Tuscan tomato soup served with bread, and the crispy deep fried sage leaves and courgette flowers My highlight though was the delicious spinach and ricotta ravioli from Maremma, and you can’t go wrong with any of the handmade desserts.
You’ll breakfast in La Veranda which boasts al-fresco dining overlooking the valley, and you can choose from a hearty selection of buffet meats, cheeses and pastries and hot dishes including Tuscan sausages, streaky bacon and scrambled eggs. Whilst the Nour Lounge, which focuses on evening drinks, occasionally comes with a side order of live pianist.
Spa
Listed as a spa hotel, as you can expect, the spa deserves recognition. More of a wellness centre with heavenly treatments, the Ciocco Spa is an indulgent space ideal for unwinding and offers a full range of treatments with prior booking such as body scrubs and wraps, couple’s massages and facials, or you can just take advantage of the attractive indoor pool.
As the outdoor pool doesn’t open until 10.30, I had the heated indoor pool to myself for my pre-breakfast laps, and the panoramic scenery makes it even more idyllic. Or you may prefer a post pasta session at the gym.
To do
If you must drag yourself away from the resort, the local town of Barga is a ten minute drive away and is well worth a visit. This perfectly preserved medieval town offers a fantastic view in every direction and is incidentally the most Scottish place you will ever visit in Italy. Formed of narrow, cobbled streets and pale orange and pink-hued houses, it retains an era of sleepy charm, even during its busiest time.
Barga’s most famous export is Scottish singer/songwriter Paolo Nutini, whose great-grandparents moved to Paisley from Barga and opened a fish and chip shop, which his parents still run today. In fact, Barga hosts its own two week fish and chip fiesta every July/August!
The town also boasts the best view of L’Uomo Morto (sleeping giant). The spectacular mountain has a natural arch that makes up the sleeping giant’s slightly open mouth, and plays host to a doppio tramonto (double sunset), twice a year. For three consecutive days, the sun appears to set twice – first behind the mountains, and then once more, as it is briefly trapped in the arch.
Further afield, in Agriturismo ‘Pian di Fiume’ is a haven for hikers, rafters and explorers. Book a guide and head on a three hour trek through five medieval hamlets taking in San Pellegrino in Alpe, Garfagnana, and first-class views of the Apennine ridge and the Apuan Alps. hikers will then be rewarded with a home cooked meal at the restaurant at base camp. Be sure to pack walking shoes as it can get steep and muddy.
Alternatively, you are in wine country, so you should definitely visit a vineyard. The biodynamic family run Codere Concori vineyards, is just a four-minute drive from the hotel and offers tastings and snacks, where you can learn all about wine pairings whilst sampling a range of wines. You may be interested in the beauty products made from grape products too.
In a nutshell
If you’re looking for a property that will take your breath away as soon as you traverse the impressive, winding driveway, you are in the right place. The location feels remote and timeless, and is a great setting to really unwind.
Getting there
Vueling is the second largest operator on routes between Spain and London Gatwick, where operations started in 2013. The airline has 27 direct routes from the UK covering 18 destinations and three countries including France and Italy besides Spain. The route London Gatwick – Florence currently has 14 weekly frequencies with returns from £52.99. See vueling.com for more details.
Factbox
Address: Via Giovanni Pascoli, 55051 Castelvecchio Pascoli LU, Italy
Phone: +39 0583 7691
Website: marriott.co.uk
