It’s so easy to feel stuffed with guilt after a good meal out. Why didn’t I order the fish instead of the steak? Maybe that vegetarian option my eyes lingered over for so long would not have been so bad? I should have skipped dessert, or resisted the temptation of a second bottle of that delicious red. Ridiculous, I know, as life is too short and if we cannot indulge in the immense pleasure given by a lovingly created and ingeniously flavoured meal, then honestly what is the point?
The issue can be particularly frustrating on holiday when home cooking is not an option and the evidence of your overindulgence is clear to see when you catch sight of your reflection in the pool. Thankfully, for me, I was dining at La Calce, the Due Camini bistro at Borgo Egnazia hotel in Puglia, Italy, where as much thought is given to the health benefits of the dishes as to their taste. This is a vegetarian restaurant and although my belly initially groaned at the absence of a medium rare fillet, I soon found that it lacks nothing by omitting meat from the menu.
Chef Domenico Schingaro is a man of few words but describes Puglia, which lies in the heel of Italy where so many of the country’s most mouth-watering creations are born, as the ‘motherland’. He is a devout follower of the region’s cooking traditions and that militant mindset can be seen in every dish.
One starter was a traditional bread salad that involved huge chunks of a freshly baked loaf mixed with tomatoes that were so beautiful and ripe I wanted to take them home to continue savouring their flavour. We also went for an aubergine, burrata and rocket creation that was warming and homely and everything good Italian cooking should be.
As with all good Italian meals, next came the pasta: green ravioli mixed with wild vegetables plucked straight from the hotel garden for me and spelt spaghetti with tomatoes and ricotta cheese for my date. Chaos ensued as we argued about how much food we should share, and you know you are enjoying a meal when you refuse to part with a single morsel.
But there is another reason to clean your plate here – the ingredients are said to help you live longer.
La Calce is billed as a ‘reinterpretation’ of Mediterranean cuisine and the owners claim their dishes are designed to contribute to the ‘slowing down of cellular aging’. Providing the right amount of calories and having a balanced nutritional profile are guaranteed apparently and my sense of post-dinner physicality was testament to this.
There was no paunch or bloating, or feeling of being stuffed, and not a hint of remorse even after devouring the iced almond cream on the dessert menu. I literally skipped back to our room and that wasn’t only because of the excellent wine pairings given with each course by our waiter.
The other point I would like to make at La Calce however, is that it has a fantastic atmosphere. We were seated outside where we could enjoy the clement evening air and listen to the soft music and the tinkle of other diners enjoying a guilt-free meal. The occasional celebrity would wander past, but no-one paid them any heed.
There were also a significant number of children despite the late hour. They were well-behaved, contented children that were either eating with their parents or enjoying a bit of freedom as they explored the hotel’s sprawling grounds. There was not a single tablet or smartphone in sight as they chatted to their friends and played games without any hint of discord, which suggested a healthy diet might have even more mysterious, magical benefits than we realise.
The conviviality underlined what a family-friendly hotel Borgo Egnazia is and why it is so hard to get a room here during the peak summer months. The restaurant is certainly one I plan to return to. However, as I have since learnt that you can add meat to your meal by going off menu, I might be tempted next time to challenge chef Domenico to proving that he is equally as talented at grilling a mean steak.
Factbox
Address: Strada Comunale Egnazia, 72015 Fasano BR, Italy
Phone: +39 080 225 5350
Website: ristorantelacalce.it
