For a city renowned for aeronautics, Toulouse somehow flies under the radar in terms of a must-visit destination in France.
Toulousains are very understated – even though many are very affluent due to the commercial behemoth that is Airbus being based in Toulouse, they never like to flaunt their wealth. And they like to keep their gastronomic riches to themselves.
Food tour
The best way to appreciate the food culture in the city is to embark on a Taste of Toulouse gourmet walking tour with the wonderfully knowledgeable, Jessica Hammer. She’s an American expatriate based in Toulouse who has spent countless hours engaging with the traders at Marché Victor Hugo to get insider knowledge so we, the clueless tourists, don’t have to.
Did you know the difference between la baguette classique and la baguette tradition? If you ever see both, make sure you order the latter, as that is typically made by artisan bakers only using flour, yeast, salt and water. They are not allowed to use any preservatives and frozen dough.
We also had a candid discussion on foie gras culture in Toulouse. It is a city that lives and breathes foie gras. Duck is ubiquitous on restaurant menus because of the production of foie gras and the meat tends to be succulent and plump but also naturally one dish to avoid if you have any foie gras reservations, as the likelihood you will be served a ‘foie gras’ duck is almost 100%.
We finished off our tour with a fine selection of artisanal cheese and wine from the market. And the wonderful thing about the tour is the follow-up email, in which Jessica meticulously lists every item we tried on the tour. Our favourite was the Beaufort d’Alpage. It is a raw cow’s milk cheese from Savoy, made only with summer milk from the cows when they graze in the mountains. Every mouthful felt like you were tasting the Alpine sunshine.
Restaurants
Even when you visit a local bistro or brasserie, the produce is of the highest order, the presentation is always exquisite. Restaurants like L’Air de Famille, which has a BIB Gourmand, don’t offer an a la carte menu. Dishes of the day are written up on a chalkboard based on what’s seasonal at the local market. You’re highly likely to come across some real bargains on their fixed-price menu such as tuna gravlax and grilled monkfish. You will also find often dishes are accompanied by an umami-rich shellfish sauce.
If you want a two-Michelin star experience without booking months in advance or paying exorbitant prices, consider visiting Ma Biche Sur le Toit, the rooftop restaurant above Galeries Lafayette. It’s co-managed by the uber-talented, two-Michelin-starred chef, Michel Sarran. Apart from mesmeric views of the pink city, you’ll enjoy haute cuisine with an Asian touch. Think grilled duck with soba noodles and ceviche presented like a sushi roll.
Another refined option is Le Bibent on the Capitole square. It first opened in 1861 and the mixture of baroque and art nouveau design has captivated diners ever since. If you want to try plenty of dishes, then head to M. Georges. They own a number of restaurants on the iconic Place Saint-Georges, so you can potentially enjoy your Caesar salad with a four cheese pizza along with some whelks.
If you are stuck on where to go for dinner, head to Marché Victor Hugo, there’s a plethora of dining options around the market making fine use of the local produce. La Gourmandine Côté Marché is one to consider for comforting food with the likes of pillowy nona lina gnocchi or Le J’Go for steak tartare topped with the ubiquitous duck foie gras. Portions tend to be on the generous side, which isn’t a surprise considering you are in a city renowned for its rugby.
Unique experiences
Want to steer your own boat without a license? Well, you can in Toulouse. Les Caboteurs offer license-free, electric boats for sailing along the Garonne. You have the freedom of viewing the riverbank at your own pace. They also provide a picnic basket for the journey so you can savour tapenades and pork pies whilst captaining your own boat. It is one of those bucket list experiences everyone should try at least once in their lives.
A visit to Cité de l’espace is essential given Toulouse is the European capital of space and aeronautics. They’ve rightfully called it a city rather than a museum. You can discover an actual spacecraft, experience the extraordinary life of astronauts and travel to the farthest reaches of the cosmos. They were showing a fascinating IMAX film called asteroid hunters showing how space agencies are constantly monitoring for cosmic threats. The whole experience is highly interactive and immersive without resorting to creating theme park rides. You’ll need to budget at least half a day to experience the multifaceted displays.
Where to stay
Want to live like nobility? Why not stay at one of the capitular towers of Toulouse like La Tour du Capitole? During the Renaissance, it was the trend to display your wealth by building the highest tower possible. There are still dozens left in the city and nowadays you can experience this unique form of accommodation. You get scintillating 360° views of Toulouse from the top-floor lounge and they have plans to create a rooftop garden as well. The only issue is to make sure you don’t carry an expansive suitcase which would be tricky to deliver up the narrow, spiralling staircase.
Another to consider is the refined, boutique hotel, The Maison Soclo. Situated in an 18th-century residence near the university area, it is a genuine, urban oasis away from the hustle and bustle of Capitole square. The highlight is their secret, serene garden and swimming pool, which is somewhat a rarity for hotels in the city. The oldest tree in the city is metres away from the hotel. Their rooms have a chic, modern British design, although you would want to spend equally as much time at their Gaspard’s Bar. Artisanal cocktails make fine use of local ingredients such as a violet martini.
Factbox
For more details go to toulouse-visit.com
