Words by Bindu Gopal Rao
What is it like being on India’s largest inland lake with a unique ecology, overlooking a bird sanctuary? Well, in one word, the experience is ethereal. And if you want a slice of this, all you need to do is check into Coconut Lagoon in Kumarakom Kerala.
Being located amidst water, the best way to reach the retreat is via a ten-minute boat ride from Kavanatinkara, where a small reception office is located. The boat will take you along the backwaters of the longest lake in India, the Vembanad Lake with the journey on the private jetty setting the tone for the experience to unfold.
If you are a keen birder like me, this is when you can see species like the white throated kingfisher, the stork billed kingfisher, darters, cormorants and more. My boatman, Binoy, an expert birder, helped me spot a rare and elusive green heron on the way and I instantly knew this would be a memorable trip.
Hotel
As I entered the retreat, I could hear the unmissable rhythm of traditional musical instruments and, soon enough, the team at the reception welcomed me with a traditional shawl and a tender coconut.
Samboo Gopalakrishnan, general manager of Coconut Lagoon explained: “The property is spread across 30 acres and all the buildings (tharavads) here have been transplanted from nearby villages, so everything is old. The pool villa (where I stayed) has been built using old structures and reassembled here, so none of the rooms are alike. This land was reclaimed for coconut cultivation in the past and hence there are strips of land and water within the property.”
Room
The 50-key property has 28 heritage bungalows, 14 heritage mansions and eight deluxe pool villas. The best part is that these are all guided by the philosophy of natural and conscious living.
I stayed in a deluxe pool villa, the most premium room category, that comes with a private pool, living room, fitted with a small kitchenette and a separate bedroom with an attached bathroom. I really liked the private sit out area that overlooks an expansive water body, the main door faces the backwaters, and you can simply chill on the chairs in the veranda and soak in the sights of the river.
The rooms are well appointed with antique wood furniture and are built using Thachu Shastra, the traditional wood-based architecture of Kerala. A special feature is Manichitrathazhu, an ornate brass locking system used on the wooden doors that are a distinct element of the architecture. The rooms have high speed Wi-Fi and the artisan active microbiome toiletries are sourced from Probiotics House, Auroville, Pondicherry.
Food
The food experiences in Coconut Lagoon are superlative and the culinary team is happy to ensure your meal preferences are taken care of. Ettukettu, the main restaurant, has an array of cuisines in a rustic setting and a buffet is laid out for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. For an authentic seafood experience, head to Aymanam, the lakeside restaurant where you can sample traditional seafood preparations like fish curry and tapioca with crushed bird’s eye chilli as well as the famed fish ‘Karimeen’, the known pearl spot fish of the backwaters.
If you have a special occasion to celebrate, a special rustic dining experience set amidst the paddy fields and water bodies or a romantic candlelight dinner by the poolside can be organised on prior request. The distinct aspect of Kerala cuisine is the use of coconut, chutneys, sweet coconut milk and fermented toddy and you can see an abundance of these elements in the food. The evening Floating Tea Shop by a local septuagenarian, who rows her boat and serves tea and coffee with snacks, is another unique experience here.
To do
The day starts at 7am in the morning where you have a choice of going on a guided bird watching tour or attending a yoga session, followed by breakfast. There is a butterfly garden on site that has several species of butterflies and, if you are lucky, you can also spot the biggest butterfly of India, the Golden Birdwing.
The in-house Ayurveda Centre offers an array of traditional Ayurvedic massages and treatments that helps in rejuvenation and relieving stress, it is a good idea to have an experience here. Otherwise, simply go for a swim in the in-house pool.
For some retail therapy, check out the store within the premises, where you can also pick up some quintessential Kerala souvenirs as a memory from your trip. You can also hop on a kayak and paddle on the waters or opt for a sunset cruise that will ensure you have a beautiful experience on the backwaters. The resort also has a traditional art – dance or drama recital that happens every evening at 7.30pm.
Coconut Lagoon is a fine example of sustainability in its true sense and a visit to the retreat is sure to make you a little more ecologically conscious than you were before you arrived.
Factbox
Getting there: Cochin International Airport is the nearest airport about 77 km away. A close to two-to-2.5-hour drive (depending on the time you are travelling) will get you to Kavanatinkara from where a 10-minute boat ride will take you into Coconut Lagoon.
Rooms can be booked from £195 pppn.
Address: Kumarakom, Kottayam District, Kerala-686563
Phone: +91 481 2528200
Email: coconutlagoon@cghearth.com
Reservations Tel: +91 484 4261711 / Email: contact@cghearth.com
Website: cghearth.com/coconut-lagoon
Images courtesy of Coconut Lagoon
