Many don’t realise this, but Lisbon is a city of hills. Though manoeuvring your way through the city does take some effort and leg power, the hilly nature of the city makes for fantastic viewpoints at every turn. The sun was still shining brightly in the Portuguese capital during my mid-October visit when I checked into my hotel for the duration, the Olissippo Lapa Palace Hotel.
Hotel
After a 20-minute drive from the airport, I was soon at the top of one of the city’s hills. We turned into a gated entrance with a tiled driveway and an imposing façade greeted us as a top-hatted doorman in a long coat opened the car door: “Welcome to the Olissippo Lapa Palace Hotel,” he said.
Located in the swish Lapa neighbourhood, which is peppered with ambassadorial residences and just a few minutes’ drive away from central Lisbon, the 19th century hotel was originally built by a viscount who gifted it to his son, but he decided it was not to his liking.
It was then sold to the Count of Valenças who turned it into a palace. The Count looked to his friends, renowned artists Rafael Bordalo Pinheiro and Columbano, to create beautiful furniture, tiles, and paintings that are still seen in the hotel today. Since being opened to the public as a hotel, it has become a member of The Leading Hotels of the World and is a multi-award winner at the World Travel Awards.
The interiors of the hotel celebrate its evolution with Art Deco, Algarvian, and Neo-classical styles all being present in the different wings and communal areas. The opulent family home also became a favourite haunt for Lisbon’s aristocracy and was a focal point for the city’s high society gatherings.
Room
The hotel has 95 rooms which are divided into the Palace Wing and Garden Wing. Our room was located on the sixth floor of the Garden Wing, which provided stunning views of the Tagus River, the majestic gardens below, and downtown Lisbon in the distance.
We were greeted with some welcome treats – like the local favourite, pastel de nata – waiting on the work desk by the window. The glass sliding doors opened up into a private balcony with a small table and chairs that were perfect for enjoying a morning coffee courtesy of the in-room coffee machine. Grey marble with traditional Portuguese azulejos adorn the bathroom, which features both a tub and a separate shower and is kitted out with L’Occitane amenities.
Food
Fresh, Mediterranean flavours were on offer at Le Pavillon Restaurant-Bar (only open from spring to summer), which is conveniently located right by the outdoor pool and was the perfect place to grab a bite and a cocktail whilst catching some rays.
We enjoyed everything from light bites, such as the charcuterie and cheese platter, to the delicious prawn gazpacho with olive oil and herbs. The hotel also has a fine dining option, the Lapa Restaurant, where guests can expect to be wowed by creative dishes like the truffled egg souffle and traditional roasted bacalhau with winter vegetables.
In the evening, we grabbed a comfortable seat the Rio Tejo Bar for some digestifs whilst a piano player entertained guests with some classic hits and got us all singing along after encouraging us to send him requests. The bar welcomes the winter months with a dedicated Tea Time in the afternoons with 30 different tea varieties available.
To do
Olissippo Lapa Hotel is an oasis in the middle of a bustling city. The storied walls cocoon you in a calm and welcoming atmosphere and it’s easy to spend your days getting treatments at the spa, admiring the magical gardens, or lounging by the pool. However, should you choose to venture outside, the concierge is happy to provide you with recommendations.
After a stroll through the lush Jardim da Estrela, perhaps a visit to see the seat of Portugal’s parliament, the São Bento Palace, is in store? Top tip: It opens up to the public (by appointment) on the last Saturday of every month. Otherwise, the trendy Barrio Alto – with restaurants such as the Michelin-starred 100 Maneiras or newcomer Ofício – is a nice 30-minute walk up and down Lisbon’s hills or a 15-minute car ride away.
In a nutshell
The Lapa neighbourhood is an ideal base for a Lisbon city break, secluded in a little enclave of calm, but near enough to the action for when you so desire. As someone who has visited Lisbon multiple times, Olissippo Lapa Palace Hotel showed me a different side of this electric city, one that enveloped me in Old World glamour and gave me a peek into how Lisbon’s elite used to live. From the opulent interiors to the laid-back atmosphere in the garden, a stay at the Palace left me with a strong feeling of saudade for this beautiful city.
Factbox
Address: Rua do Pau de Bandeira 4, 1249-021 Lisboa, Portugal
Phone: +351 21 394 9494
Website: lapapalace.com
