From the time of its silver spoon evolution in 1888, Lalique, the radiant French glassware atelier and lifestyle brand, has forever been synonymous with all things shimmery and twinkling. When the prized lustrous invitation arrived to experience their immensely coveted Michelin destination tucked inside the Glenturret distillery, it was unequivocal, a gastronomically indomitable odyssey awaited.
A first of its kind, in-distillery dining notion since July ’21, this intimate dinner-only destination showcases an eloquently exquisite union of one of the crown jewels of the Parisian crystal sphere, with Scotland’s oldest working distiller which has continued to hone their traditional whiskey talents to create and serve up the smooth, rich layered Glenturret single malt in deep russet hues that we have learnt to savour for over 250 years.
The Glenturret Lalique restaurant is proudly brandishing their first, luminous crystal encrusted Michelin star since February ’22, an astonishing triumph scantily hitting its seventh month of operation as it haughtily joins its fellow Lalique Michelin entourage of the resplendent, Villa René Lalique nestled within the lush backdrop of France’s Northern Vosges Regional Natural Park, and Restaurant Lalique resting inside the 1er Cru Classé estate of Château Lafaurie-Peyraguey.
Just a mere 60 minutes’ drive from Glasgow or 90 minutes from Edinburgh, this chi-chi dining port of call awaits for their discerning guests enveloped amidst the abundant glorious, green scenery of Perthshire right in Crieff’s quintessential market town, as it overlooks the rustic still houses and fluttering small rides of the river Turret.
Intimate backdrops meets bijou grandeur in this jewel-box eatery, with the elegant Green and Mingarelli design duo right at the helm of the restaurant’s lavish interior aesthetics, created to evoke a symphonious melange of treasured Scottish heritage with ethereal French poise. Beamed ceilings and splashes of warm, golden barley hues glowed against sumptuous furnishings coutured in classical, Glenturret and Murray clan tartan upholstery while a duo of enchanting, Lalique Champs Elysées chandeliers radiated their translucent sparkle throughout the six-table dining room.
To turn my back on the occasion to relish a pre-banquet tipple at the polished sanctum of the stunning Lalique bar would have been scandalous. Pristine glassware and intricate Lalique ornaments adorned the smooth marble tops, while a backlit display played host to 300 priceless single malt whisky collections ideal for that early evening aperitif, or maybe a luxuriant whiskey tasting flight brazenly brimming with caramel tones, oaky notes and spiced layers all plucked from the most saluted stills in Scotland’s cherished territory.
An evermore penchant for a Cosmopolitan cocktail, the debonair bar team grafted tirelessly to create a concoction worthy to appease my apprentice cocktail taste buds with a beautiful Old Fashioned creation with silk like, triple wood malt bursting with a fruity flair, powerful cinnamon hints, and sugary delights from candied orange peel poured over an engraved ice cube.
A tantalising, yet fetching and artistically pleasing multi-course experience awaits, illustrating inspiration from the Glenturret with a new-fangled global fusion swivel through unparalleled fresh produce and foraged ingredients, with not an inkling of a gimmicky whisky marinade, haggis accompaniment, or shortbread round off in sight!
Head chef Mark Donald takes to the reigns of this tasting voyage, as he re-creates his epicurean sorcery that was cast in his former Michelin home of Number One at The Balmoral in Edinburgh, of course not neglecting his blooming tour of duty in London’s French gem Hibiscus run by chef Claude Bos, and chef Rene Redzepi’s gastronomic mecca that is the iconic Noma in Copenhagen.
The tasting crusade was launched with a liver canapé morsel, rich yet delicate with its velvet meaty contents and deep, vibrant raspberry coating concluded with dainty rainbow flowers, while hot on its heels was a golden crystal platter holding miniature tattie scones, fluffy, moist with generous black truffle shavings and mild black prime caviar.
While many a ‘fresh’ bread servings result in disheartening sighs with their itch-in-the-throat contents, the Glenturret Lalique promises fresh out of the oven, warm sourdough helpings perfuming the air with clean, yeasty sweet aromas accompanied by home-cultured butter and mellow honey.
Following suit to keep appetites sufficiently satiated was the taster sample of succulent langoustine encasing a buttermilk filling, rapidly followed by a single, truffle topped Foievioli serving with the wafer light pasta generously glazed in toothsome roast chicken butter. Mark’s take on a lobster toddy saw tender lobster meat served poached in melted gold butter, accompanied by a crisp hot toasted seafood sandwich whilst not losing sight of the Highland Wagyu beef, slicing effortlessly and melting in the mouth with lashings of light yet hearty jus.
The dessert of Maracaibo mille-feuille exhibited pure chocolate ecstasy as I sank my teeth into agile crispy wafers, mousse and drizzles of intense, caramel toned, Glenturret Triple Wood syrup. That said, the crowning glory trophy belonged to the acclaimed confectionery delicacy of the sleek wooden ‘Sweetie Box’, where a rapid twist and a blink of an eye unveiled a sugar haven of sumptuous fluffy chocolates, and chewy sweets to conclude the evenings dining theatrics.
Wine pairings are in safe hands with the executive sommelier Julien Beltzung at your service. Served in Lalique’s exquisite intricate glassware, the 2012 Saint-Emilion Grand Cru Classé unearths powerful notes of blackcurrant and light spices, whereas the Bodegas Ximénez Spínola 2020 ignites sweet aromas of fig raisins and pastry for a light, elegant round off.
In a nutshell
Mark Donald made it his mission to transport his diners on an enchanting culinary pilgrimage, as they journey through the revolution of the Glenturret elevated by the inception of this bejewelled gastronomical trinket.
The Glenturret and Lalique portray two, glorified grand craft endeavours now interlaced in a formidable dalliance, that fiercely guards their traditional practices, shared passions and breath-taking pedigree, all of which has given us the most impeccable and momentous encounter in fine distillery dining.
Factbox
The Glenturret Lalique tasting menu comes priced at £150 per person, with an optional wine pairing at an additional £110 or £300 for the prestige pairing.
Address: Glenturret Distillery, The Hosh, Crieff, PH7 4HA
Telephone: +44 (0)1764 657016
Website: theglenturretrestaurant.com
