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Cruise Review: Treasures of the Danube Eastbound on Riverside Mozart

Michael Edwards joins this seven-day luxury cruise from Vienna to Budapest.

By Michael Edwards   |  

For many, sailing along the Danube, through Central Europe is the ultimate river cruise. Never as blue as waltz king Johann Strauss promised, nevertheless the Danube is an epic cruise, flowing past countries and capitals, past castles and cathedrals.

A Danube cruise tells stories of rising empires and crashing dynasties. From King Saint Stephen of Hungary, through Austrian-Hungarian emperors ruling half of Europe from Vienna, to Soviet tanks racing west in 1945. Over the centuries, invasions of Romans, Mongols, Ottomans and Russians have swept along the banks of the Danube.

In Bratislava, our guide recounts how she took to the streets for the Velvet Revolution that overthrew communist repression, as we tried the local beer. Then she tells of how she watched Slovakia’s Velvet Divorce from the Czech Republic. History is still being made on the banks of the Danube.

The ship

riverside mozart deck bar
Riverside Mozart is one of the most spacious and luxurious ships to cruise the Danube

At double the width of most ships, Riverside Mozart is one of the most spacious and luxurious to cruise the Danube. Consequently, every cabin is a suite, with butler service.

After Crystal’s bankruptcy in 2022, Riverside Luxury Cruises purchased and relaunched the ship as Riverside Mozart, sailing eastbound from Vienna to Budapest for seven-night cruises and then back with a westbound itinerary: taking in the vine-terraced slopes of the Wachau Valley, one of the prettiest stretches of the Danube.

Double width provides extra staff accommodation too, and at full capacity, 91 staff of barmen, butlers, masseuses, waiters, and a pianist look after just 162 guests.

The suite

riverside mozart penthouse suite
Luxurious and spacious suites include the Penthouse Suite

Calming blues, browns and greys in our penthouse suite echo the colours of the Danube Valley that slide by. Binoculars are provided for studying bird and wildlife, and morning and evening room service tops up the mini bar, also refreshing the petit fours and fruit bowl. A walk-in wardrobe provides ample hanging and drawer space, while larger suites have the luxury of a bath as well as shower in the bathroom.

Food and drink

lunch in Blue restaurant
Blue restaurant provides delicious light lunches

Waterside restaurant, with the marketplace buffet for breakfast and lunch, has space to seat all of the passengers. Waiters are available to take orders for drinks and items cooked to order and at lunch and dinner, sommeliers provide wine advice.

Blue restaurant at the bow, providing light lunches, also has open dining and plenty of tables for two and, throughout the day, the Bistro provides drinks and snacks.

Up on the Vista Deck, chefs use Egg barbecues to grill a selection of burgers, fish, steak and vegan kebabs. Though with soups, salads, a hovering sommelier and waiters taking dessert orders, this has to be the most stylish barbecue on the Danube.

A large galley, twice the size of that on most ships, enables 15 staff to provide fine-dining quality. The catering crew run their own bakery, whilst ice-cream, pasta and soups are also homemade.

Facilities

riverside mozart spa
The impressive spa features an indoor pool and Jacuzzi

Palm Court is a sophisticated bar and lounge where the pianist plays classical favourites, jazz and requests on the Bösendorfer grand piano. Alternatively, the library, with its collection of glossy coffee-table books, provides a hushed retreat.

Deck one’s prow houses an impressively spacious and well-equipped gym. Above on Deck two are the spa’s treatment rooms, hairdresser, Jacuzzi and steam room and the indoor pool is large-enough for half a dozen strokes but also has a push-button counter-current for a good aerobic workout.

In warm weather, guests are drawn to the Vista deck for the views and the aura of a chic beach club with bean bags, deckchairs and recliners. It is the place to be, cocktail in hand, when the Riverside Mozart sails into Budapest after sunset to see the Hungarian capital’s parliament and grand architecture spectacularly lit.

Excursions

budapest parliament
Excursions include a visit to the stunning city of Budapest

Riverside aim to keep excursion group sizes to around a maximum of 15, allowing guests the opportunity to see and ask questions on the sights of Vienna, Durnstein, Melk, Linz, Salzburg, Bratislava, Esztergom and Budapest.

The fleet of air-conditioned coaches make land travel exceptionally comfortable, particularly on the two-hour drive from Linz to Salzburg which takes in a coffee-stop in Austria’s spectacular Lake District. Revealing the reality behind The Sound of Music story, that Salzburg was outraged by 23 year-old Maria’s marriage to 47 year-old Captain Von Trapp, the tour finishes more classically with a visit to Mozart’s birthplace.

A store of bikes, e-bikes and alpine walking sticks are on hand for a variety of biking and hiking exhibitions. But the star excursion is an after hours visit to Vienna’s Upper Belvedere Palace for a private artwork tour. This is followed by a concert of Mozart and Strauss works given by a mini orchestra, plus baritone and soprano in the domed Marble Room.

In a nutshell

One of the most luxurious of Danube River cruises on the head-turning Riverside Mozart. Every meal is a memorable event, particularly with the option of dining when and where you choose.

Factbox

Sailing from Vienna, in September 2023, prices begin from €2,991 per person for full board. Premium all-inclusive, also covering standard excursions, starts at €4,316 per person. Visit riverside-cruises.com for sailing dates and itineraries.