I’m sipping Poncha – a local Madeiran favourite of rum and tangerine juice – as I watch a stream of classic cars parade through the thrumming capital of Funchal. A city, I quickly realise, that is also the capital of all things motorsport. The bar I’m drinking at is called the Ritz, one of the city’s oldest cafes, and incidentally a building also shared with the motorsport and sports club of Madeira. Right outside its open doors, paved in the smooth rounded cobbled street, are the names of famous rally drivers, in true Hollywood style.
A wave of cheers sound as a Subaru, no wait, the Subaru Impreza WRC S14 rally car raced by the legendary Petter Solberg, ascends the ramp of the starting ceremony procession for the Rally Madeira Legend. This is the third year the rally has taken place, which was created as a new take to rallying, and also pays tribute to the famous Madeira Wine Rally – Rali Vinho da Madeira – during its European Rally Championship era.
After the ceremony I returned to the Race Village on Funchal’s seafront, where I ended up in a different type of rally, a Rally Taschca, translation ‘bar crawl’, of all the food stalls set up. Most of them sell sweet Madeiran delicacies, and of course, more rum, locally brewed from one of the island’s biggest exports, sugar cane. It’s all too easy to soak up the atmosphere here, where more classic cars are on display and catchy tunes drift out to the startling blue Madeiran waters.
I followed the rally over the following two days in what transpired to be a wholly unique way of exploring Madeira’s widely varied scenery, shaped so by the micro-climates of mountainous and tropical terrains. The southwest coast of Calheta, where one of the ten stages takes place, is popular with tourists thanks to it being one of the few sandy beaches on the island, imported from North Africa. Taking the recommendations directly from Madeiran residents, however, they will point you to the nearby village of Paúl do Mar, a more serene beauty that locals cherish, as well as Seixal, one of four black-sand beaches surrounded by green mountains and miles of sparkling blue waters.
By complete and happy accident, I found myself on yet another Rally Tascha with Italian rally icon Andrea Aghini, who is much loved by Madeirans not just for his wins in the Rali Vinho da Madeira and several podium finishes in the World Rally Championships, but also for his unadulterated love for rally. With a broken gearbox of his Lancia Delta Integrale on the second rally day, Aghini’s newly found free time was filled quickly, lunching in north Madeira after his final stage before hitting up some boozy hidden gems.
The best of these, and definitely off the beaten track, was in the charming village of Porta da Cruz in the north-eastern corner of Madeira. Nestled in the cliffs and surrounded by a savage wilderness carved out by the elements, the village offers rugged scenery and beautiful hikes that join up with the famous King’s trail, which runs all over the island. If the breath-taking views don’t knock you off your feet, the rum produced by the village’s rustic factory will.
Squirreled away in this quaint little village is also where you can find one of the best Ponchas on the island, Dino’s. At first glance, this simple village café could be easily overlooked, but if you ask for a tangerine Poncha and are willing to wait 20 minutes while the fruit is juiced, your tastebuds will be singing and brain cells shrinking as the freshest and punchiest cocktail slides down your throat.
The five-star Pestana Casino Park hotel I stayed in provided a ‘Bond Villain’ theme very befitting of this rally escapade. Designed by world-renowned master architect Óscar Niemeyer, the hotel boasts open-plan lobbies, a stylish casino bar and a crisp-blue infinity pool overlooking the harbour, all just a five-minute walk away from the centre.
To finish the trip with a flourish, we visited one of Funchal’s most appraised restaurants, Kampo by chef Julio Pereira, and it did not disappoint. A Portuguese chef who loved Madeira so much he set up a restaurant there, the menu is filled with local Madeiran delights with the most intricate flavours that only comes from using the freshest products.
On the return flight home I felt a slight heaviness as I left the tropical paradise behind, but reassured myself that I will be returning to the island and sipping on a Poncha by the sea in no time. Shaken, not stirred.
