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Brunch review: Colony Grill Room at The Beaumont, Mayfair in London

Ina Yulo Stuve enjoys a transatlantic-themed brunch at this popular London eatery.

By Ina Yulo Stuve   |  
colony grill room head
Image Credit: ZAC and ZAC

I firmly believe that hotel lobbies are for people watching, and I was doing just that as I flipped through the pages of my book at The Beaumont, the five-star luxury hotel, which is a member of Preferred Hotels and Resorts.

A short walk from Bond Street’s hustle and bustle, the lobby has a controlled chaos with locals greeting each other and discussing their weekend plans; American and Italian accents float around as tourists make their way to one of the hotel’s drinking and dining lairs, and the friendly staff are helping guests as they check in. It was a Sunday afternoon and I was meeting a friend at The Colony Grill to try their transatlantic-themed weekend brunch.

They say the concept of brunch originated in England but was perfected in the United States. The word was first used in the late 19th century to describe the hearty pre-hunt breakfasts, but it was in 1930s America when its popularity skyrocketed.

This plays to the DNA of The Beaumont, which is a property that celebrates the glamorous transatlantic journeys of the 1920s and brings the best of hospitality from across the pond. The team at The Beaumont call their rendition of the much-loved weekend treat ‘a delicious fusion of American flamboyance and British charm’. In addition to classic brunch staples like pancakes and avocado toast, diners can also choose from a selection of oysters and caviar as well as heartier entrees like seafood and grilled meats.

colony grill steak
Hereford Steak Tartare is one of the many popular dishes on the brunch menu. Image credit: Cristian Barnett

The dining room is reminiscent of a traditional Manhattan brasserie with crimson leather banquettes and white tablecloths. We started with a couple of Bloody Marys – as you do – before diving in to the rest of the menu. We opted to save the grilled delights that the restaurant is best known for for another visit and instead zoned in on their brunch offering.

The menu has sections for snacks and hors d’oeuvres, so we decided to pick some bites to share. The mushroom parfait is silky smooth; served with toasted brioche, its umami flavours are enhanced with a dash of maple wine. Not content with just one order of crunchy bread with mushrooms, we were floored by the moreish, rich truffled toast – it’s topped with gooey cheese custard and bacon jam, making for the perfect salty-sweet bite. Our final snack was the CFC or Colony Fried Chicken – brilliantly crispy and tender chicken pieces on a chicken emulsion and served with corn relish.

colony grill salad
American themed dishes include The Colony Cobb Salad. Image credit: Cristian Barnett

We went classic for the main event – eggs benedict and French toast. The eggs benedict featured a perfectly poached egg and a glistening, tangy hollandaise that brought the whole dish together. As I don’t have much of a sweet tooth, I leaned towards the French toast with maple syrup, opting for the sour cherries and clotted cream option. The soft, pillowy pastry was topped with gorgeous sour cherries, which cut the sweetness of the dish in the most masterful way. A dusting of powdered sugar and creamy clotted cream concluded the symphony of flavours.

If you’ve worked up an appetite, The Beaumont also offers a traditional roast on Sundays. Steaks and salads are often carved and prepared tableside and, for those in the mood for a sweet treat, the ice cream sundaes have built quite a fanbase from young and old alike.

Factbox

Address: 8 Balderton St, Brown Hart Gardens, London W1K 6TF, United Kingdom
Website: thebeaumont.com