In the heart of the Swiss Alps lies a real-life fairytale setting that could have sprung from the pages of a Grimm Brothers tale, but served with a delicious twist. Picture Hansel and Gretel trading in their candy for mountains of cheese and savoury wieners, set against the backdrop of the majestic Swiss Alps – welcome to the Wengen ski resort.
Perched on a high shelf of the Lauterbrunnen valley in German-speaking Switzerland, Wengen exudes a charm that captivates all who visit. It’s no wonder JRR Tolkien found inspiration during his stay, with historians speculating that this very region may have influenced his creation of Rivendell. And let’s not forget its cameo in the world of cinema – the Jungfrau region, often dubbed the ‘Top of Europe’, served as a breathtaking backdrop for James Bond escapades.
But what truly sets Wengen apart is its mode of accessibility. Forget highways or airports; here, the only way in is by train. Yet, far from being a hindrance, this adds to the allure of the place. Ingenious funicular railways snake through the mountains, granting access to three distinct ski areas totalling a staggering 211 kilometres of winter wonderland. And let’s not overlook the marvels of modern engineering – the gondolas here are not just a means of transportation, but a luxurious experience in their own right.
Over the course of six days, I immersed myself in an array of blues and reds, braving one black, against the breathtaking backdrop of the Bernese Alps. Among these towering peaks, the Eiger, the Mönch, and the Jungfrau reign supreme. For those who seek to unravel the stories etched into these rock faces, the gondolas offer more than just a means of transport: With inbuilt tour guide narratives, each ascent became a journey through time, tracing the footsteps of ambitious mountaineers drawn by the irresistible allure of these grand summits.
One particularly idyllic day saw us embark – fully equipped with ski gear as is the way here – on a scenic journey from Wengen to Lauterbrunnen by train, before continuing our ascent to Mürren. Nestled amidst picturesque tree-lined slopes, Mürren thickened the fairytale plot, with wide, gentle runs beckoning skiers of all levels to carve their own paths through the snow.
But the beauty of Wengen lies not only in its slopes but in the seamless integration of skiing and village life. Wherever our adventures took us, the option to ski all the way down to the heart of Wengen was there – a journey peppered with charming apres-ski pit stops, remote chalets, and even rotating rope lifts to ascend mini-slopes.
With weary legs and spirits soaring, we’d liberate our feet from the confines of our ski boots and make a beeline for the nearest bar, mere minutes away from the bustling hub of the ski hire and hotels. And as the day melted into night, we would make our way to the Alpenrose hotel just a short stroll away.
For those seeking a taste of authentic Alpine-Swiss hospitality, look no further than the Alpenrose, the village’s oldest establishment. Run by the same family for generations, stepping into its all-wooden interior feels like stepping into a grand, yet cozy, family home. Opting for halfboard meant we indulged in extravagant breakfast spreads and five-course meals that fuelled us for a day on the slopes.
As for après-ski adventures, while the Alpenrose made it tempting to just stay put, a few pints of Dunkel – a lighter take on Guinness – at the local tavern provided the perfect conclusion to a day of alpine adventures. In Wengen, every moment is a chapter in a storybook come to life, where fairytales meet the modern world amidst the stunning beauty of the Swiss Alps.
All imagery credit Rolf Wegmüller
