Words by Sara Hayward
Behind an unobtrusive gate, on a pretty typical Lisbon Street in the Príncipe Real district of Lisbon, lies a treat. An escapist’s dream. An Oasis. Tucked away is a sumptuous walled garden, with sculptures, a jacaranda tree, and a hidden pool, which makes way for a house full of history and full of life, a hotel that defines luxury and boutique.
The demure entrance, the once old laundry, welcomes you straight into an anti-reception room decorated in bold blues and pinks, exquisitely designed to stand out and make a first impression.
This hotel makes you notice the details, everywhere there are details from Lisbon books, connected colours, to the Indian runner duck silhouetted everywhere. In the leafy enclave, where majestic palm trees and faded palaces create an enchanting backdrop, one might not expect to encounter Indian Runner ducks. Yet, at the perfectly pink Palácio, these whimsical birds are a delightful presence at every turn. Whether perched on the counter of the aptly named Duck Bar, gleaming in gold on leather key card holders, or intricately woven into the iron railings of the grand balconies, the ducks add a touch of charm and character to the historic setting.
“We chose them as our logo as they come from Asia,” explains British owners Miles and Gail Curley, who embarked on a journey from Singapore to Madrid before serendipitously discovering the 19th-century palace in Lisbon. Captivated by its allure, they made the bold decision to transition from law to hospitality, infusing their passion for travel and culture into the restoration and transformation of the palace into a welcoming retreat for guests to enjoy.
Since acquiring the building in 2015, Gail and Miles Curley have poured their hearts into the meticulous restoration of the property. Drawing from their extensive travels and experiences, the couple embarked on a mission to revive an architectural gem while introducing a new standard of luxury hospitality to the Lisbon hotel scene. Their vision was clear: to create a haven where guests are pampered, and quality reigns supreme. Every detail of the restoration process was executed with love and care, preserving the historical charm of the building while infusing it with modern comforts and amenities. The result is a sanctuary where guests can indulge in unparalleled luxury and immerse themselves in the rich tapestry of Lisbon’s culture and heritage.
Hotel
The Palácio Príncipe Real is a gem. It’s furnished impeccably, with each room being unique within a theme, but what really stands out is the care and attention that is given by those who work here. Some of the friendliest staff are on hand to help whenever and with whatever you need, this is indeed a hideaway in plain view.
Every room within the Palácio holds a hidden story, a secret whispered by the walls of its past. From the old living room, once a hub of family gatherings, to the laundry room where the laughter of nine children echoed as they played, each space is imbued with memories of joy and adventure.
Gail and Miles have poured their hearts and souls into the renovation of this historic residence, infusing it with their passion for craftsmanship and attention to detail. Every corner bears the mark of their dedication, with each element carefully curated and bespoke to create a truly unique experience for guests.
At the heart of the Palacio stands a majestic stairway, illuminated by the golden rays of Lisbon’s sunlight streaming through the skylight. The grandeur of the staircase is accentuated by the soft pink hues of the walls, adorned with delicate white stucco work – a testament to the timeless beauty and elegance of this historic landmark.
Nestled within a verdant oasis, the swimming pool takes pride of place, serving as the focal point of this tranquil retreat. A rarity in Lisbon, the lush and leafy garden envelops guests in a sensory symphony. Walls adorned with lilac wisteria create a picturesque backdrop, while vibrant bougainvillea cascades down, punctuating the scenery with deep pink hues. Fragrant jasmine and lemon blossom perfume the air, enhancing the idyllic ambiance.
Days spent here are a languid affair, with opportunities to bask in the sun and savour the serenity amidst the melodic chorus of birdsong. As the sun begins to set, guests can transition seamlessly from sun beds to sundowners, indulging in signature cocktails crafted by skilled mixologists. Using locally sourced spirits and ingredients from the herb garden, each concoction is a testament to the region’s rich flavours and traditions, offering a delightful fusion of taste and ambiance.
Rooms and suites
Gail undertook the task of refurbishing and decorating the 25 bedrooms with unwavering enthusiasm, imprinting each space with her unique aesthetic. While honouring the palace’s Portuguese heritage, she preserved ancient blue and white tiles and even retained the colourful Moorish stucco work ceiling adorning one of the bedrooms. However, English touches are seamlessly integrated, from the grand stand-alone bathtubs sourced from Drummonds to the modern Dyson hairdryers.
Complimentary minibars stocked with delights such as ginger health shots, Nespresso machines, and locally crafted pink pepper candles elevate the guest experience.
Our room, situated on the first floor, was once the palace’s old kitchen. Tiled floors greeted us, complemented by an inviting open fireplace that exuded warmth and charm. At the foot of the bed stood a magnificent copper bath, a luxurious centrepiece that beckoned relaxation. High ceilings lent an air of grandeur to the space, while the soft glow of scented candles added an ambiance of tranquillity. But it was the bed itself that truly stole the show, a dreamy haven where one could easily lose themselves in a world of slumber.
As evening descended, we summoned drinks with a simple WhatsApp message, indulging in a round or two before venturing out into the vibrant tapestry of the Lisbon night.
Food and drink
The restaurant and bar, exclusively available to guests, contribute to the warm and welcoming atmosphere of the retreat. On pleasant days, guests can dine al fresco in the lush garden enveloped in bougainvillea, overlooking the expansive swimming pool. Only cooking with extra virgin olive oil, chefs prepare a daily selection of seasonal, predominantly plant-based dishes. Food is served all day and ingredients are locally sourced, with lashings of organic olive oil and absolutely no processed sugar.
Breakfast offerings cater to a variety of tastes, ranging from avocado toast and Greek yogurt with fruit to indulgent scrambled eggs with salmon and coriander. Other menu highlights include hearty salads, asparagus and lemon risotto, and the quintessential Portuguese delicacy, pasteis de bacalhau, or cod fritters.
To complement the dining experience, guests can enjoy a selection of local wines, beers, and juices from the complimentary mini-bars in their rooms. Additionally, house-made cereal bars are replenished daily, not to mention the chocolates!
To do
If you’re keen to get out and explore, be sure to take a leisurely stroll through the Príncipe Real Garden (Jardim do Príncipe Real), a tranquil oasis in the heart of the neighbourhood. Admire the lush greenery, colourful flowers, and the iconic Cedar of Lebanon tree, which is over 100 years old. Art enthusiasts should also explore the local art galleries; Príncipe Real is home to several art galleries showcasing contemporary and traditional Portuguese art. Spend some time browsing the collections and discovering local artists and their work.
Nearby is Barrio Alto, a vibrant neighbourhood known for its lively atmosphere, narrow streets, and eclectic mix of bars and restaurants, where you can experience the soulful sounds of Fado, Portugal’s traditional music genre known for its melancholic melodies and heartfelt lyrics. Many Fado houses offer live performances in intimate settings, providing a glimpse into Portuguese culture and history.
Visit Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara and take a break from the hustle and bustle of the streets and head to this scenic viewpoint, offering panoramic views of Lisbon’s rooftops, the Tagus River, and beyond. It’s a perfect spot to watch the sunset or simply admire the cityscape. Browse the independent shops and boutiques scattered throughout Barrio Alto, offering unique fashion, artisanal crafts, and souvenirs. Discover one-of-a-kind treasures and support local businesses along the way.
In a nutshell
Located just 35 minutes by car from Lisbon Airport, Palácio Príncipe Real beckons guests to indulge in a luxurious retreat steeped in history. Each spacious bedroom offers a sanctuary for relaxation, evoking a sense of nostalgia for a bygone era when individuals were cherished, and life unfolded at a leisurely pace. Embrace the opportunity to unwind and rejuvenate in an ambiance that harks back to a time of elegance and refinement, where every moment is savoured, and every detail is thoughtfully attended to.
Factbox
Rooms can be booked from €495 for a cosy double to €695 for a dream garden room. Breakfast is included.
Address: Palácio Príncipe Real Rua de São Marçal 77, Lisbon, 1200-419 Portugal
Phone: +351 218 792 000
Email: welcome@palacioprincipereal.com
Website: palacioprincipereal.com
All imagery unless stated otherwise credit: Palácio Príncipe Real
