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An interview with Pierre De Klerk, cellar master of Graham Beck sparkling wine

Graham Beck is South Africa’s most recognised sparkling wine that has created Cap Classique since their first vintage in 1991. LLM writer Georgie Bentley-Buckle speaks with the specialist producer’s cellar master Pierre De Klerk.

By Georgie Bentley-Buckle   |  

South Africa’s diverse terroir for wine production is one of the country’s international superpowers and a magnet that attracts global attention. Championing old and new world wines, it proudly produces an expansive portfolio that offers something for everyone, including a special Cap Classique sparkling wine. 

With a family legacy rooted in its values to protect nature and nurture people, Graham Beck places South African sparkling wine on the map across 40 countries. A personal favourite, I spoke with cellar master Pierre De Klerk on his integral role in executing the bubbly for the specialist producer and some exciting releases ahead.

Can you tell me how Graham Beck epitomises South African Cap Classique sparkling wine?

I can humbly admit that we are perhaps one of the most recognised Cap Classique brands on the market due to having produced Cap Classique for 34 years now. Graham Beck has been producing Cap Classique since our first vintage of 1991 and we have been specialising in exclusively producing Cap Classique since 2017, with an extremely dedicated focus on producing top quality bottle fermented sparkling wine, leaving no stones unturned in pursuit of the perfect bubble. 

We have large international footprint, exporting to 40 countries world-wide and as such have become one of the most recognisable Cap Classique brands throughout the world. Our products have graced the tables and celebrations of paupers, presidents and royalty alike.

vineyard south africa
South Africa’s diverse terroir for wine production is one of the country’s international superpowers and a magnet that attracts global attention

Can you shine light on your integral role as the cellar master from the harvesting, to blending and tasting the final product?

My role as custodian of the winery and wines begin in the vineyards, where I work closely with our own viticulturist as well as with the owners and managers of the vineyards where we source grapes from. Together we agree on best practices during the pruning and growing season to achieve the highest possible quality grapes for our intent purposes. When harvest approaches, we visit each and every site together to taste the grapes and discuss picking before a final decision on harvest date is agreed upon. 

Once the date is set, the logistics of getting the grapes to our cellar is my responsibility, as well as overseeing the pressing programs, juice separation into two qualities for each parcel of grapes we work with, settling or clarification of the juice, planning on the cellar floor for daily operations of harvest time and the monitoring of fermentations. Needless to say, we have a very strong team of experienced and reliable individuals to help with all these aspects. 

Post-fermentation the winemaking team commence a rigorous period of tasting base wines to classify each individual component into the different products of portfolio. No rush decisions are made and we take up to four months to finalise each blend. Next comes bottling, which lasts six months or longer, where I oversee the small, specialised team who prepares the yeast inoculum for each bottling, the additions before bottling and the actual bottling of the wine. 

Regular tasting of all bottled batches take place continually through the year to assess the evolution of each wine and to decide when it is time to riddle and disgorge the individual batches. At disgorging, the dosage we use plays an integral role in the final product to go to market and is our final chance to tweak the Cap Classique to perfection. This involves constant bench trial tastings to find the perfect balance. As cellar master I am also responsible to a certain degree to tell the stories behind each wine as part of the marketing of our beautiful Cap Classiques.

Pierre De Klerk, cellar master of Graham Beck
Pierre De Klerk is cellar master of Graham Beck

Tell me about your passion for South African wine and how Graham Beck is at the forefront of the industry?

In my mind SA wine strikes the perfect balance between old and new world wine regions, with incredible diversity in terroir, winemaking practices and broad-minded, well-travelled individuals coaxing beautiful wines out of the grapes in our country. As a fairly young wine-producing country, there has never been a more exciting time to be involved in the SA wine industry. We are seeing cultivars being planted on the correct sites best suited to them. 

New cultivars (as far as South African history is concerned) are arriving and being planted. Virus-riddled and inferior vineyards are being uprooted to be replaced with better planting material and at the same time there is a big drive to conserve old vines which are delivering very special wines. Old and new production methods are trialled and implemented to understand what works best for each producer and their intentions. 

The Beck Family affords and encourage us as a winemaking team to constantly experiment on all levels of the winemaking process and be creative in our approaches, giving rise to a plethora of R&D projects. There are also some very exciting new releases lined up for the not-too-distant future. Watch this space…

How did expanding your career overseas develop your knowledge and passion for the craft back in South Africa?

I have had only limited experiences overseas, one in the South of France, one in Napa Valley and one in Champagne. However, each one of those experiences had a massive impact on my understanding of different regions, wine styles, winemaking approaches, and philosophies of individuals in different parts of the world. My time in Champagne cemented my love and passion for bubbles and I still love travelling through Champagne (as well as other sparkling wine producing areas) for inspiration and sharing of knowledge.

Graham Beck
Graham Beck places South African sparkling wine on the map across 40 countries

You joined Graham Beck in 2010. How has the brand evolved since then?

When I joined the team we were a rather widespread operation with multiple winemaking facilities and vineyard properties. We were producing a large portfolio of wines across multiple wine styles and tiers. In 2015 the family decided to take a more focussed approach for the brand and only concentrate on producing top quality Cap Classique. This was a tough decision – one met with a lot of scepticism and uncertainty from all angles in the industry – but I believe it has elevated the brand to new heights and there’s no looking back from here.

In your opinion which foods does a Cap Classique sparkling wine pair with best?

Cap Classique is extremely versatile. There are so many different styles available that it can pair with almost any dish when well chosen. Personally, I love a crisp NV Brut Blend with salads or grilled chicken. Rosé always work a charm with salmon or tuna dishes. More complex styles like Blanc de Blancs with long lees ageing seamlessly pairs with richer dishes with duck or pork. We have had beautiful pairings with all kinds of dishes, from fish to lamb, poultry to pastry, savoury to sweet. It really depends on how creative the chef wants to be. And if you can’t find the right dish, just find the right partner, because Cap Classique goes down easily without food as well!

How do you balance the legacy of Graham Beck whilst continuing to develop and evolve a leading South African sparkling wine brand?

The Beck family’s legacy has always been strongly embedded in our company and brand values: ‘to respect and protect nature, respect, nurture and empower people, and deliver the highest quality standards in your work’. These are not aspects and philosophies which remain in the past as we continue to evolve, they are in our DNA and form part of our daily lives as custodians of the land, the wines and the brand.

Graham Beck wine selection
Championing old and new world wines, Graham Beck proudly produces an expansive portfolio that offers something for everyone, including a special Cap Classique sparkling wine

How does Graham Beck stand out and do things differently against other similar brands?

Being a specialist producer has afforded us the opportunity to become masters in the craft of Cap Classique production. This dedicated focus allows for constant experimentation and exploration on our quest in pursuit of the perfect bubble. In addition to this relentless journey demanding dedication, patience, and time, Graham Beck also fervently supports environmental conservation and community welfare.

Lastly, what’s next for Graham Beck?

We are currently embarking on an increasingly sustainable business model by replanting vineyards, adapting viticultural approaches, expanding storage facilities and experimenting with cultivars outside of our comfort zone, while simultaneously always searching for unique and interesting vineyard sites to work with. I believe our Artisan Collection will see a few exciting releases, while the quality of our vintage range and, in particular, our Cuvee Clive is constantly increasing. The future is looking bright and bubbly!

Factbox

Address: PO Box 724,  Roberston, South Africa, 6705
Phone: +27 (0)23 626 1214
Website: grahambeck.com