The Sunday roast is more than just a meal in British culture; it’s a cherished tradition that brings families and friends together, a cornerstone of British heritage, and for many, a highlight of the weekly social calendar.
There are numerous places to enjoy a Sunday roast in London, but they most certainly aren’t all created equal. And whilst there’s nothing wrong with a hearty pub affair when you’re in the mood for simple and tasty fare, if you’re seeking a truly next-level meal and an all-round elevated dining experience then finding the perfect place can feel like hunting for a needle in a haystack.
Luckily, we’ve done it for you, and The Grill by Tom Booton, in the heart of the city’s upscale Mayfair district, is the place to book your weekend table if you want to be seriously blown away.
Amidst the elegant Georgian townhouses, exclusive hotels, and gourmet restaurants of the area, it’s hidden away inside the opulent Dorchester hotel, which is flanked by world-famous retailers including the bespoke tailors of Savile Row and the designer fashion boutiques of Bond Street, and is undoubtedly its best-kept secret.
The restaurant recently underwent an extensive revamp to breathe new life into its interiors, and bring a fresh new look and feel. Headed up by renowned chef Tom Booton, The Grill serves up the best of British food with a new take, including everything from hearty breakfasts to decadent lunches and dinners. Tom’s delectable interpretation of a modern-day British grill delivers food that is to be saluted and savoured – but his Sunday roast is a real highlight that has to be tried to be believed. Once you have, you’ll likely want to make it a weekly ritual, because it really is that good.
Here are five reasons The Grill by Tom Booton is undisputedly (in my opinion) the best place to enjoy a Sunday roast in the British capital in 2024.
The chef
Tom took over The Grill back in 2019, becoming the youngest head chef ever to be appointed by the hotel at the age of 26. The first chef to be granted the prestigious honour of having his name over the door in the restaurant’s coveted 93-year history, his achievements here have been no small feat, and he’s built a glowing reputation for cooking the very finest British cuisine in the five years since he took the helm.
Tom moved to London in 2013, first working for Michelin-starred chef, Alyn Williams at The Westbury then moving on to L’Autre Pied under esteemed culinary wizz Andy Mcfadden. In 2015, he went travelling and worked in restaurants in New York, Copenhagen and Iceland, moving back to the UK in 2016 and remaining in the capital ever since. In 2016, he worked for Ollie Dabbous as sous chef, then took on his first head chef role at Alyn Williams. Last year, he moved to The Grill – now The Grill by Tom Booton – where he has crafted a dynamic menu based around only the finest locally sourced ingredients, with each dish cooked with flair by him and his outstanding team.
The food and service
The restaurant offers the best of British food and the Sunday lunch menu gives diners the chance to experience the very best of what Tom is all about – fantastic produce, beautifully cooked and simply presented.
It’s a real celebration of modern British cuisine in rather glorious surroundings.
Start with ‘Snacks’ created at the Chef’s Counter, where highlights include a mouth-watering beef doughnut with tangy horseradish and rich truffle, and a soft taco stuffed with juicy prawns and spicy salsa.
For starters, the beef tartare was an absolute delight and certainly tantalised the taste buds. It’s served with oxtail, radish and a rich and creamy confit yolk and was tender, melt-in-your-mouth and a great way to start the meal. The radish helped to create some incredible textures and the yolk added some moisture, holding the dish together very well.
For mains, who can resist a roast beef for the ultimate Sunday lunch? A roasted-to-perfection Hereford rump, served with the crispiest beef fat roast potatoes, a Yorkshire pudding, glazed carrot, cauliflower cheese and creamed leeks, it was a show-stopping course with all of the tasty trimmings that take a roast dinner to the next level.
The beef was served medium rare (very close to rare, so perfect for the beef connoisseur like me) – just the way it should be. I was really quite divine, and flawlessly showcased the best of British beef and the quality of meat we produce here in the UK. The attention to detail was superb and the carrots and creamed leeks were elevated to an incredibly high standard with a perfectly cooked Yorkshire pudding and a drizzle of rich and flavourful gravy to top things off.
This is not your usual Sunday roast down at the local gastropub – it’s serious cooking using the finest produce, and it shows.
The Pudding Bar is a great touch, allowing you to watch the talented chefs at work, and ask questions and chat whilst they produce the most stunning sweet treats. I started with the restaurant’s rather wonderful take on a toffee crisp, which was served with a salted milk ice cream. This is super sweet and not for the faint hearted. The delicious combination of biscuit, crispy cereal and caramel is hard to beat and the ice cream adds a cooling and interesting element to the dish. Texture wise it was quite stunning and it brings back nostalgia from my school days and the tuck shop and certainly an upgrade on the Nestle version – which is also pretty good.
For a slightly lighter option, opt for the English strawberry trifle which is served with a delicious custard ice cream. This is a taste of summer in a dish and had my dining partner in strawberry heaven. Highly recommended.
The service is very much on point; attentive but not excessively fussy or over the top. Staff know the dishes and wine selection inside out and service is invariably with a smile, which is not always the case at London restaurants and creates a cosy and welcoming feel from the moment you arrive.
The wine list
The restaurant offers an extensive list of red, white and sparkling wines from across Europe, Argentina, Chile, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand, as well as a wide variety of champagnes, sweet and fortified wines, and sake.
There’s a team of sommeliers on hand to make recommendations, and the menu also features a list of wines that have been pre-selected by them – but if you’d like specific pairing suggestions based on what you’re going to be ordering to eat, then they are happy to provide more personalised suggestions, too.
The décor
The restaurant underwent an extensive renovation back in 2019, with renowned French designer Bruno Moinard appointed to craft the gorgeous new interiors. A hand-blown gold Murano glass chandelier is the focal point of the dining room and it’s truly stunning, injecting an undeniable dose of real wow factor. Antique mirrors and gilded wall panels all up the glitz and glamour factor even further and help to create a really luxurious look and feel overall.
Furniture wise, comfy leather banquettes and warm oak tables set the tone for a relaxed and unstuffy dining experience (there are no boring white tablecloths here). Despite its opulent touches, it’s very much a space to unwind.
A beautifully designed and rather elegant setting that makes it the perfect space for enjoying some delicious food and wine, it’s very in keeping with the plush, sumptuous and polished feel of The Dorchester brand
The hotel
The restaurant is located at The Dorchester, one of London’s most iconic and prestigious luxury hotels, on Mayfair’s esteemed Park Lane, enjoying one of the capital’s most sought-after post codes.
An establishment frequented by the rich and famous, it’s not unusual to spot a notable face or two in the lobby or when heading down for dinner, and the recent renovation project the hotel has undergone has uplevelled it to even ritzier heights.
The first major overhaul since the 1980s marks a significant milestone in its storied history and includes a refreshed lobby, new guest rooms and suites, and the addition of modern amenities while preserving the hotel’s iconic charm and classic British elegance. A 007-inspired cocktail lounge and the new Artists’ Bar, which features Liberace’s lovingly restored grand piano, are some of its most glamorous new highlights.
The redesign, led by renowned designers Pierre-Yves Rochon and Martin Brudnizki, blends traditional and contemporary elements to enhance the luxury experience for guests.
Factbox
Located in: The Dorchester
Address: 53 Park Ln, London W1K 1QA
Phone: 020 7629 8888
Website: dorchestercollection.com/london/the-dorchester/dining/the-grill-by-tom-booton
All imagery credit: The Grill by Tom Booton