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Restaurant Review: Le Relais at Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, St. Moritz In Switzerland

On offer is an opulent dining experience amidst breath-taking vistas. With a blend of luxury and history, exquisite dishes, and innovative cuisine, every meal becomes a sensory journey through contrasts and culinary artistry.

By Rupali Dean   |  

St. Moritz used to be a quiet place until Johannes Badrutt changed everything. He convinced a group of English tourists to ski there, and that’s how this town transformed into a hub of luxury with fur coats, ski slopes, and plenty of Champagne. Badrutt’s impact still shines today through the epitome of elegance in Europe; the famed Badrutt’s Palace Hotel. As night falls, the Renaissance Bar remains the go-to spot in town. Dimly lit with cosy navy-blue cushions and a crackling fireplace, it sets the perfect ambiance. The talented barman, crafts exquisite cocktails that are sure to impress, all enjoyed in the company of the trendiest patrons as you sip on your mulled cider.

Regal dining bliss

Le Relais restaurant interior
Nestled amidst St. Moritz’s scenic lake and majestic mountains, Le Relais and its connected veranda offer an enchanting setting for romantic and exquisite dining experiences

For those seeking excellence and sophistication, gazing out over the serene lake of St. Moritz and the majestic mountains beyond, Le Relais and its charming veranda beckons you to savour delightful and intimate dinners. Here dining isn’t just about food; it’s like stepping into a different universe, a world of sparkling chandeliers and classical art. Picture yourself inside a grand historical mansion where even kings might have feasted. The ambiance is royal with rich woodwork, intricate detailing, and plush velvet all around. Small treats hint at something greater.

Artistry on every plate

The flavourful cuisine is made from exclusive ingredients and the menu also features a number of dishes that are prepared at your table

The term ‘cuisine’ here evokes unique and innovative associations, offering an array of contrasts that create a sensory delight. From luxurious to rustic, hot to cold, land to sea, bitter to acid, herbs to flowers, and sophisticated to simple, each pairing entices the palate and elevates the dining experience. Regulars have their all-time picks; the Oscietra caviar (Réserve du Palace) 50g A.C.D.G.; the robust lobster bisque; milk-fed veal filet mignon croquette, green peas and lemon A.C.G.L.O.; and the Grand Marnier souffle. Chef Jeremy Degras’s creations are nothing short of spectacular. He always prioritises using locally sourced produce in his cooking, viewing meat and fish more as accompaniments. The dishes are not just sustainable ingredients combined but are presented as artistic creations.

A starter of foie gras terrine was disarmingly creamy; beef tartare done tableside with toasted brioche, a major savoury mouthful and the robustly smoked palace salmon was a restrained showstopper. I couldn’t get enough of the beef stroganoff, delicate smoked salmon prepared tableside and perfectly grilled line caught turbot with vegetable pearls and an herb salad. That said, in this culinary world, vegetables steal the show and there’s no compromise on using only the freshest seasonal ingredients. Each dish was a work of art, all perfectly complemented by bottles of exquisite natural wines (read the wine menu is literally a wine bible of sorts). Save room for a luxurious vanilla and raspberry mille-feuille with wild strawberries, salted caramel and a glass of Champagne to cap off a wonderful evening of indulgence.

Decadence redifined, unforgettable journey

If you are looking for excellence and elegance, you are in the right place at Le Relais

The indulgence continues even after the main course, so be sure to treat yourself to a gourmet chocolate pralines and a glass of Champagne to wrap up a truly enchanting evening. It’s not just a meal; it’s a journey for your senses that you’ll remember for a lifetime. The dishes delight the taste buds, with a presentation that’s as visually appealing as it is delicious, showcasing the freshest ingredients behind those familiar flavours.

Indulging in the dynamic cuisine – a blend of contemporary, forward-thinking dishes with a nod to tradition – feels like a journey into a realm of innovative savours and abundant generosity, a delightful escape to a bygone era. Pairing this gourmet delight with the luxurious hotel enhances the entire experience for a truly exceptional immersion. If you’re willing to splurge a bit of a ‘small fortune’ for a dining experience, consider this one. Reservations advised!

In a nutshell

The interactive flair of drizzling and grating tableside demands a touch of focus, but it’s a delightful task. Set against the chic, earthy tones of the decor that effortlessly absorb the sounds of custom ceramics, the cuisine stands out – unique, exhilarating, and quintessentially French.

Factbox

Prices from £250 to £600 depending on what you order.

Address: Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, 7500, St. Moritz, Switzerland
Phone: +41818372661
Website: badruttspalace.com

All imagery credit: Badrutt’s Palace Hotel