Words by Richard Jones
The beautiful Caribbean island of Barbados has been welcoming visitors for centuries. But a couple of hundred years ago, some of those arriving on its Atlantic shores were in for a nasty surprise. Legend has it that Sam Lord, who owned an extravagant plantation estate and mansion in Long Bay on the south-eastern coast, instructed his men to hang lanterns from the property’s coconut trees, confusing the captains of merchants’ ships who assumed they were approaching the safe harbour of Crane Beach or Bridgetown. Then, as the vessels floundered on the treacherous coral and rock reefs, their cargo became easy prey for Lord’s looting pirates on land.
Nowadays, Lord’s former home forms the backdrop to the Caribbean island’s newest five-star all-inclusive hotel, Wyndham Grand Barbados Sam Lord’s Castle. Although the lure of hospitality at the rugged Long Bay remains, savvy travellers who check in there these days are guaranteed a warm welcome that is considerably more transparent and pleasurable than in the buccaneering days of the early 19th century.
Hotel
After becoming smitten with the relaxed Bajan way of life on my previous two visits, I was keen to share my love of the island with my family. So, following a flight into Grantley Adams International Airport, my wife Rachel and I, along with our two teenage daughters Isla and Evelyn, checked into the luxury resort in the parish of St Philip.
The most noticeable thing when you arrive is the hotel’s new-style grandeur, with an expansive courtyard leading to a massive main lobby building, with floor-to-ceiling windows, huge lamps and cream-coloured marble pillars. It was certainly a suitable setting for Indian couple Richel and Avi’s opulent wedding that week.
After taking a seat in the reception, we were handed a rum punch and greeted by one of the hotel managers, Alex, as well as Sicilian head chef Franco, who was keen to meet Isla and address her gluten-free dietary requirements.
Room
Our base for the week was an airy ocean-view deluxe king room in one of the newly built seven-storey towers. The ultra-comfortable bed looked out towards a spacious balcony where I would relax with a tea or coffee in the mornings, waiting for the girls to rise from their cosy slumber in the adjoining room and watching the sun rise over the turquoise Caribbean.
There was also a small kitchen area with a coffee and tea maker, and complimentary mini-bar, replenished daily with water, sodas and Banks beer, while premium Molton Brown toiletries were scattered around the spacious marble bathroom with its double sink, deep bathtub and rain shower.
To do
During our days at Sam Lord’s, we spent a lot of time in the cabanas and on the day beds around its three pools, sipping cocktails served by the waiters and cooling off in the water. At both the Lantern Pool Bar and Sam Lord’s Grill, there were convenient grab-and-go cool boxes full of ice, water and Banks.
In between the relaxation, the energetic entertainment team did their best to get everyone involved in the poolside fun. There are also plenty of child-friendly activities, a spa offering treatments, and for those who want to stay in shape, a gym and tennis and pickleball courts.
The resort looks out onto Sam Lord’s beach, which is good for browsing the locals’ jewellery and trinkets, sunbathing and paddling. Although there are lifeguards down there, it is too rocky for a full swim.
Food and drink
Where the hotel really excels is in the food and beverage department. For breakfast and lunch, we enjoyed a huge range of European and Asian dishes at the buffet-style Mediterranean Market, while Sam Lord’s Grill serves up American and Mexican fayre, before its menu is upgraded with steaks and speciality cocktails in the evening.
The culinary pièce de resistance is the glamorous adults-only (12s and over) Castle View restaurant facing the remaining façade of Sam Lord’s Castle. The four of us slurped on Oysters from the seafood and salad bar, before nibbling on soy-marinated chicken lollipop, lamb chops, wagyu beef and grilled lobster tail.
For a pre- or post-dinner drink, Burnt Cask is Sam Lord’s’ stylish rum bar, and serves specially curated global liqueurs and cocktails, many from Barbados’ celebrated Mount Gay distillery.
And if you’re looking for a snack before heading out for the day, Lucy’s Lounge is ideal to grab bags of plantain chips, nuts, Shirley biscuits and chilled water. That was exactly what the four of us did before exploring the island.
To do
Due to the location of Sam Lord’s, it may make sense to book a rental car, however, taxis are plentiful and there are public buses running regularly to Bridgetown and the south coast from just outside the hotel.
Our driver from the airport was local man Emerson Clark, and I stayed in touch with him during the week, booking rides to various places. One day, we even hopped on one of the island’s infamous ZR ‘reggae bus’ minivans, complete with open windows and blaring music, which was a great experience for the girls.
Out first excursion of the week was a Catamaran cruise from Bridgetown with Cool Runnings, which began as we snorkelled among the green turtles and tropical fish off Carlisle Bay beach. From there, we sailed up the island’s west coast, and dropped anchor before having lunch on the boat and swimming to the beach next to One Sandy Lane – home of Rihanna’s beachside villa.
The four of us also spent a day at Harrison’s Cave Eco-Adventure Park in Allen View, where chatty guide Shay narrated us on a tram tour through the limestone cave system with its mesmerising stalagmites, stalactites, waterfalls and deep pools formed over thousands of years. Afterwards, we got harnessed up for the park’s exhilarating treetop Monkey Zip Line, before wandering around the nature trail and aviary.
Evelyn has taken a keen interest in golf recently and she joined me for a round at Barbados Golf Club. While she enjoyed hitting a few balls on the fairways and greens and riding along on the buggy, her highlight was actually seeing a troop of playful green monkeys on the fourth hole. A tasty pizza at the Mulligan’s on the Green clubhouse bar made it her perfect day.
Speaking of delicious food, we also got spruced up for a meal at one of Barbados’ best restaurants, The Tides, in the Holetown area on the island’s west coast. After starters of chilli crispy calamari and tangy barbecue ribs and wings, our mains were Bajan spiced pork belly, and Tides chicken curry, served in a coconut. The High Tides and Peppery Passion cocktails made it a night to remember.
Throughout the week, we also took a trip down to the island’s main tourist area, St Lawrence Gap, and returned to Carlisle Bay to enjoy the white sandy beach, before calling in for a drink at Savvy on the Bay beach bar.
For our final night, we jumped in Emerson’s cab down to Oistins. Every Friday, the village’s fish market comes alive as tourists and locals dance along to live music, browse the craft stalls, and enjoy the delicious food and drink.
What started out as a humble gathering of locals celebrating the day’s catch is now an island-wide tradition, and we devoured the red snapper, swordfish and flying fish which had been cooked in front of us at Pat’s Place, washing it down with ice-cold local beer and water. Priced at just 10 Barbados dollars (about £3.75) for four bottles of Deputy lager, it was a bargain.
Unlike the days of ‘Sam the Man’, we had received a very warm and genuine Barbados welcome from the locals – and there was nothing questionable about how these particular treasures had arrived in port.
Factbox
Fly direct to Grantley Adams International Airport in Bridgetown, Barbados, from London Heathrow, London Gatwick, Manchester and Glasgow with Virgin Atlantic, British Airways, Aer Lingus and TUI.
Address: End of Belair Road, Long Bay, Bridgetown Barbados
Phone: +1 246-622-1200
Website: wyndhamgrandbarbados.com
For information on great festivals, world-class gastronomy and family activities in Barbados, check out visitbarbados.org.
Holiday Extras offers car parking and hotels at all major UK airports. See holidayextras.com.
And for relaxing Plaza Premium Lounge access at Gatwick, Edinburgh and Heathrow airports, go to plazapremiumlounge.com.
