Words by Benjamin Russell
Despite its small stature, Basel encompasses a trio of countries – Switzerland, France and Germany — and as you walk its historic lanes you can feel the influence of all three; from delicate patisseries to bustling bierhallen and decadent chocolate shops, Basel is a beautiful blend of the best of Europe.
The city has more than 2,000 years of traceable history, starting with Celtic tribes and Roman settlements, through the enlightenment to the present day. The Basler Münster cathedral was consecrated more than 1,000 years ago, and its university dates back to 1460, making it one of the oldest in the world.
Just as the Rhine flows through the centre of Basel on its way north to France and Germany, this rich mix of diversity and history sees culture run through the city’s heart, and there is a multitude of galleries, museums, theatres and concerts to enjoy.
Where to stay
Grand Hotel Les Trois Rois
This five-star gem is part of the fabric of Basel and stands as a symbol of unparalleled luxury. Les Trois Rois, which translates to ‘The Three Kings’, has an illustrious history that makes it one of the oldest city hotels in Europe. Originally opened in 1681 as a gentleman’s inn, it has hosted the likes of Napoleon Bonaparte, Pablo Picasso, Queen Elizabeth II and Mick Jagger, to name but a few.
It evolved into a magnificent grand hotel in 1844, and after extensive renovations from 2004 to 2006, it now boasts a refined, timeless design. Perched elegantly on the banks of the Rhine, the hotel offers stunning views of the surrounding landscapes, seamlessly blending the beauty of Switzerland, France, and Germany. Guests can indulge in exquisite dining at its acclaimed restaurant, Cheval Blanc, consistently ranked among the top 100 in the world.
Volkshaus Basel
For a more bohemian vibe, head across the bridge to Kleinbasel, where you’ll find Volkshaus Basel – a cosy boutique hotel in the middle of the city’s liveliest district. It was designed by renowned Swiss architects Herzog and de Meuron, who intended to create an urban place of relaxation and modern hospitality where you can escape the noise of the city.
At various times the site has been a castle, a brewery, a concert hall and offices, and they have refurbished the building sympathetically, but with a sense of style that brings it into the modern age. The chic bar has an innovative array of cocktails, while the brasserie serves classics like schnitzel and steak frites presented in an elevated way.
What to do
To help get your bearings, take a walk to Basel Münster which dominates the skyline from its position in the centre of Grossbasel. Ascend the tower for magnificent views across the city and beyond. The city is split over the Rhine between Grossbasel and Kleinbasel and when it comes to crossing between the two, the most enchanting way to traverse the river is aboard one of the four iconic ferries. These vessels are tethered to a cable and are powered by the current of the water itself. As well as a tranquil mode of transport, it’s where you’ll find some of the best views of the cathedral.
Whether it is the Kunstmuseum, which has works by artists like Vincent van Gogh and Claude Monet, anthropological museum the Museum der Kulturen, or the adorable and child-friendly Basel Paper Mill, there is a gallery for everyone. Those who stay in Basel are given a free BaselCard pass for the public transport system, which in typical Swiss style, is efficient and easy to understand. Travel to Dreiländereck, where the points of the three countries meet on the Rhine. You can also use the card to rent an e-bike for CHF 20 (£18/$23) a day, so head further afield on a tour of the ‘Concrete Icons‘ – brutalist masterpieces that are just outside the centre.
A perfect end to the day is to catch the sunset from Sauna Am Rhine. The structure juts out over the river and offers several different saunas and yurts to relax in. The plunge pool is the Rhine itself, so when it’s time to cool off, you simply descend the steps for a dip.
Food and drink
If you are looking for a traditional Swiss tavern experience then Löwenzorn, in the heart of the Old Town, is perfect, serving local specialities and wines from Swiss vineyards.
At the Dreiländereck border tripoint, you simply must eat at Sandoase. In the summer this beach bar is complete with palm trees, and as it gets colder it becomes Winterdorf, a Swiss chalet serving bottomless varieties of fondue. You can even rent an individual ski lift gondola for a romantic evening under the stars.
Spale Bar is a casual space for a glass of something special and a chat, alongside the Alsatian speciality ‘flammekueche’, a thin and crispy type of pizza. Confiserie Bachmann is the place to try ‘Basler Läckerli’, a spiced biscuit made with honey, hazelnuts, almonds, candied peel – but don’t forget to try the pain au chocolat.
Across the river in Kleinbasel you can find hipster bars and independent eateries serving the city’s coolest clientele. The Airstream Bar evokes 1950s Americana with its chromed interior using parts of a classic Airstream trailer. You can find charcuterie and craft beer at Schall und Rauch Bar, and Consum Weinbar offers a selection of 100 different wines alongside unpretentious food platters.
In a nutshell
Medieval drama meets French Chic and German cool in this Swiss melting pot. Basel is a rich cultural nervecentre straddling the Rhine, with the winding streets of Grossbasel on one side, and the vibrant alleys of Kleinbasel offering something for everyone.
Factbox
For more information go to basel.com
