Words by Anjana Gosai
Originating from the Indian subcontinent around 5,000 years ago, Ayurveda is an ancient healing system that focuses on balancing the mind, body and spirit. Practised by millions across South Asia today, India is home to some of the most notable Ayurvedic retreats, including the luxurious Ananda in the Himalayas, The Somatheeram in Kerala and numerous holistic retreats in Goa.
Having visited many of these havens through my work and travels, I have found that a truly authentic Ayurvedic experience is hard to find outside the subcontinent. In need of rest and rejuvenation, I made my way to the scenic valleys of northern Italy and checked into the country’s first Ayurvedic retreat, Engel Ayurpura. I was curious to see if the centuries-old wisdom of Ayurveda, with its roots firmly planted in Indian soil, could truly thrive in the heart of Europe.
Fundamental to Ayurveda is the belief that health and wellbeing depends on maintaining balance among the body’s primary elements known as doshas: Vata (air), Pitta (fire) and Kapha (earth). Following a consultation using pulse diagnosis to determine a guest’s dosha, a personalised programme is prescribed. This includes vegetarian meals, along with massages, yoga and meditation, all designed to promote healing and create harmony between the body, mind and spirit.
The adult-only retreat is family-run, dating back to its founding in 1830 as a farm. The Kohler family expanded it into Hotel Engel, an established family resort in the 19th century. They recently introduced Ayurveda at Engel Ayurpura, after founder Carmen Kohler’s personal health transformation through this ancient healing practice.
Hotel
Set 1,200 metres above sea level, in the postcard-perfect village of Nova Levante in the Eggen Valley, Engel Ayurpura opened its doors in 2023. Just two kilometres from Bolzano in Italy’s stunning South Tyrol region, it’s nestled among the dramatic peaks of the Rosengarten mountains, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The luxurious retreat offers a wellness experience that harmoniously blends authentic Ayurvedic traditions with the serene beauty of the alpine landscape.
Built using reclaimed larch wood, the wellness retreat feels like a natural extension of its surroundings, perfectly capturing the light and warmth of its south-facing views. With only 15 rooms and suites, six floors and a maximum number of guests capped at 30, the hotel maintains an intimate atmosphere with plenty of personal space.
On the top floor, the panoramic sundeck quickly became my favourite spot to unwind and soak in the views of the jagged Rosengarten mountain range. The warm infrared loungers were perfect place for relaxation as the evenings grew crisp. Do come up here at sunset where you can watch the faces of the Rosengarten turn pink – it’s quite a sight.
From this floor, you can also take in views of the deck outside, where you’ll find a heated salt-water infinity pool, as well as the forest sauna, a tranquil garden and the scenic walking trails. On the lower ground floor there’s a spacious relaxation area with comfy beds and tea bar. This floor also hosts the Atelier – a unique space where you can listen to mindfulness talks and enjoy a spot of meditative painting or floristry.
In the spa area there are 12 treatment rooms along with a yoga shala, where I began each day with a revitalising morning yoga session and wound down with a calming evening meditation. Near the reception area is a cosy lounge with an open fireplace and shelves filled with wellness books – it’s a great nook for relaxing, reading and soaking up the sweeping mountain views.
Carmen, the driving force of Engel Ayurpura, is an inspiring presence throughout the retreat. She warmly engages with every guest, from casual conversations to leading intimate talks on the benefits of Ayurveda. Carmen has followed an Ayurvedic way of life for over 15 years. After a few chats with her, it’s evident that she believes in Ayurveda’s power to not only heal, but to prevent illness, too.
During my stay, I had the chance to speak with a few guests, many of whom were solo travellers, each with a personal reason for checking in. Some were seeking recovery from burnout, others were navigating mental health issues, and some, I was told, were going through the delicate phase of post-chemotherapy recovery. Despite their different stories, there was a shared sense of purpose – a need for healing and reconnecting with one’s self in the most nurturing environment.
Room
With just 15 rooms, the retreat offers an intimate escape. The rooms and suites come in differing sizes, including 12 pura rooms with double or twin beds, two design suites and one loft suite featuring a free-standing bath and private sauna. The minimalist interiors seamlessly-blend natural materials like wood and white linen, marrying contemporary elegance with nature’s simplicity to create the most calming atmosphere.
All rooms are spacious, uncluttered and equipped with walk-in showers and large bathrooms. While TVs are available, I opted to disconnect from screens during the stay, embracing the retreat’s peaceful environment and breath-taking views that were visible from the room’s expansive windows and balcony.
Food and drink
At Engel Ayurpura, the food is an integral part of the holistic wellness experience. The cuisine is centred around Ayurvedic principles, emphasising seasonal ingredients and mindful eating.
The bespoke vegetarian menus are designed to align with the body’s natural rhythms, using fresh, local and seasonal ingredients to promote optimal health. Chefs prepare the meals to balance the body’s doshas and support digestion, energy levels and overall well-being.
The dishes are based on whole grains, legumes, vegetables and herbs. Many are gluten, dairy and sugar-free, aligning with the Ayurvedic focus on whole, unprocessed foods. Since I was on the Panchakarma programme, I was offered light, easily digestible meals like kitchari (a mix of rice and lentils), soups, and daals, which were all delicately seasoned with Ayurvedic spices known for their healing properties, such as turmeric, ginger and cumin. These spices not only enhance the flavour of the food, but also aid digestion, improve circulation and have anti-inflammatory benefits.
Guests are encouraged to slow down, savour each bite and connect with the food on a deeper level. This mindful approach helps you to appreciate the nourishment provided by each meal, fostering a deeper sense of wellness and connection with the body.
Programmes and packages
Open throughout the year, guests can check in for anywhere between two and 21 days. The hotel’s recently introduced short-stay programmes are perfect for anyone curious about Ayurveda – they offer a great way to try the concept without committing to a longer stay.
Each guest begins their journey with an Ayurvedic consultation with Dr Parth Mahajan, a seasoned Ayurvedic guru with decades of experience, including roles at Como Hotels, Ananda in the Himalayas and his own Ayurvedic hospital in South Goa, India, which he co-runs with his wife.
Dr Parth conducts a detailed pulse diagnosis to identify your dosha, which allows him to tailor nutrition plans and classic Ayurvedic massages. He also incorporates lesser-known treatments, including ghee drinking and a cleansing enema, which was certainly a new experience for me. During my stay, I was advised to undergo a Panchakarma detox, which required me to cut out sugar, caffeine and dairy from my diet. Surprisingly, the transition was easier than expected with the hotel’s overall ambience helping me ease into a healing mindset.
The real highlight, though, was the daily back-to-back treatments, which were truly exceptional. The therapists deserve a special mention – each comes from a unique background, from Sri Lanka to South Africa, and all share a palpable passion for Ayurveda. My favourite treatments included the pinda sweda massage with warm herbal pouches; the deeply relaxing abhyanga with its long strokes using heated herbal oils; and the healing shirodhara, where a gentle stream of warm oil is poured onto the forehead, helping to restore mental balance.
What I really appreciate is that you’re not forgotten about after you check out. For a whole year, guests are offered digital support, with access to the hotel’s portal, which is packed with Ayurveda tips, exercise ideas, recipes and yoga sessions.
To do
There’s plenty of free time in between treatments and the staff encourage you to fully embrace rest and relaxation. This may be especially welcome to some, as the detox can leave you feeling slightly drained without a daily caffeine or sugar fix. You can choose from plenty of on-site activities, like flower arranging, Ayurvedic cooking lessons and art classes led by the ever-charming Giulio.
If you’re up for a bit of adventure, you don’t have to go far. Just a 20-minute bus ride away, Lake Carezza awaits with its astonishing views. I recommend heading out early to beat the crowds. If you’re feeling more adventurous, hop on the ski lift to the Rosengarten. We spent an incredible morning here, hiking through jaw-dropping scenery, more than 2,000 metres above sea level. It’s a must-do for nature lovers. If you’re travelling alone, you can also book a guide at the hotel and for a bit of culture, the charming town of Bolzano, with its mediaeval architecture, is just a short bus ride away
In a nutshell
Engel Ayurpura is perfect for those seeking a genuine Ayurvedic experience without the long-haul flight to India or Sri Lanka. With its blend of luxury, nature and ancient wellness traditions, this remote retreat is ideal for those looking to kick-start a detox or address specific health concerns like burnout and digestive issues.
While it may not have the deeply spiritual atmosphere as some retreats in India, it’s special in its own way. The stunning scenery and energy of the Dolomites, combined with the passion of the staff, authentic Ayurvedic practices and modern comforts, make this a true hidden gem, closer to home.
Factbox
Getting there: Engel Ayurpura is easily accessible via Bolzano, Innsbruck or Verona Airports or railway stations.
Address: Via S. Valentino, 5, 39056 Nova Levante BZ, Italy
Phone: +39 0471 614 245
Website: ayurpura.hotel-engel.com/en
Instagram: instagram.com/engelayurpura
Image credits: Engel Ayurpura
