Founded in 2001 by Syra Khan and restaurateur CEO Alan Yau whom had kindled the ramen bar Wagamama sensation, the glitterati Cantonese destination of Hakkasan has held no qualms in parading its stature as one of the top powerhouse players around the sphere, with a dining encounter embodying fashionable photogenic style, and native toothsome substance.
Since its first glamorous inception of Hakkasan Hanway Place in the vibrant epicure domain of London’s Fitzrovia, this haute-monde den has endlessly wooed the palates of their smart set clientele. A nouvelle-cuisine medley netting in on a revived interpretation of delectable East Asian classics, this has also seamlessly married into the creative practice European cookery crafts, which saw this lattice adorned hideaway be the first Chinese restaurant to clinch that treasured Michelin star prize within a sheer two years.
With over two decades on since its glam London debut, this ritzy restaurant haunt has flourished in its reign as a major hospitality player under the glossy wings of the luxury lifestyle Tao Group Hospitality, with a libertine Hakkasan empire establishing its rising global dominance in some of the sphere’s ruling billionaire playground cities. As of 2024, the Hakkasan clique have graced their presence in fourteen luxe locations from London’s second outpost in the jet set haunt of Mayfair, bedazzling neon sin city of Las Vegas, and the grandiose Emirati capital of Abu Dhabi currently in the throng of its own Michelin glory.
Showing off a hedonistic brunch exhibit within the chic ambience of their London flagship destination, the Lost in Shanghai brunch series at Hakkasan Hanway Place introduces a monthly sensory gourmet odyssey that pays tribute to the Chinese ritual of banqueting. The menu unveils a lavish Cantonese assemblage of artistic culinary creations bustling with the saporous fresh flavours and fragrant aromas of Shanghai, all the while revelling in an immersive, pulse-pounding ambience cocooned inside Hakkasan’s iconic sultry aesthetics.
Tucked inside a hidden corner, a trivial three minutes from Tottenham Court Road station, an unassuming exterior simply bearing the signature Hakkasan symbol uncovers a deep dusky den, with the darkened stairs descending me to the basement depths of a seductively, low lit mis en scene, perfumed with the heady bold incense of pure sandalwood. An intricate, glamour soaked labyrinth originally fashioned by interiors maestro Christian Liaigre, this Haute Hakkasan Hangout evoked the aura of a sybaritic nightfall sanctuary. Cloaked in a jet black armour of ornate lattice screen adornments, these rested against low-hanging lighting in a deep blue hue and dots of neon pink, illuminating around and on sleek ebony tables and leather seating as striking modelesque dancers coutured in their raven corseted ensembles, sashayed around the space with a ballerinas poise.
Chaperoned to my table in first-rate neighbouring view of the DJ’s sacred refuge, the debonair milieu of the long stretching cocktail bar had no sooner caught my eye, basking in tones of rich sapphire and brick stone walls as an under-lit setting radiated its beams onto a handsome tipple library of ultra-luxe spirits, liqueurs and champagnes for the mixologists to shake and stir up their avant-garde concoctions.
Exquisite attention to detail is a biologically inherent trait for the Hakkasan clique, with click golden matte menus set with its signature tapestry embellishments, and glossed up soot black fans carefully placed for each diner to undoubtedly predicate its impending use for some high octane shenanigans during this Shanghai soirée serial. Offering up one of three of their trademark aperitifs of a classic Margarita, Lychee Martini or Magic Pear, it was undeniable my reputed soft spot for a lychee creation would conquer the cocktail race with its smooth, milky tinted nectar flowing with a sweet candied fruit relish, and a lemony citrus splash swirled with fragrant floral notes from the feather soft red rose petal.
Ever celebrated for their famed duck salad, delectably rich golden crisp shreds of tender meat were mixed up right at the table into fine fresh salad leaves, fuelled with ripe fruit sour notes from the sprinklings of pomelo and grapefruit segments to cleanse the palate, not to neglect their delicious sweet duck sauce fuelled with the tropical wood spiced zing of cinnamon, star anise and tangy orange peel. Following on in hot pursuit, a wispy cloud of smoke had unearthed a decadent rainbow assortment of a deluxe dim-sum trio. Where the gold leaf topped Har Gau saw top-tier seasoned shrimp generously encased in a delicate black ink wrapping, a pastel purple covering had showcased thinly sliced earthy mushrooms flowing with lashings of nutty black truffle before relishing on the Shui Mai, ever so slightly spiced from the scallion and ginger entwined with finely chopped mince pork, and that garnishing touch of salted orange roe.
During a pause from the luxe luncheon, an offering of Whispering Angel’s finest pale pink Côtes de Provence Rosé made its appearance; mellow with dainty floral notes with a crisp clean finish courtesy of the medley of lavender and raspberries to cut through the next flaky helping of a peppered pastry puff, loaded with hearty lean venison to re-whet the appetite for the entrée regale. Succulent rib eye slices melted like butter on first slice, stir-fried to tingling perfection in a black pepper merlot sauce, while the spicy king prawns in a piquant tomato and almond sauce paired harmoniously with the flavourful egg fried rice and vibrant green vegetables, which had been lightly tossed in a union of garlic and soy sauce.
A show-stopping dessert chef-d’œuvre beyond compare, a veil of dry ice showmanship soon floated away to have me in the presence of four, equally pleasurable to the eye sweet treats serenely poising on a stone cold slab, bearing, of course, that gloried Hakkasan autograph. The chocolate caviar; rich, dark and dangerous synced beautifully with the sharp sour hit of the spiked lemon creation, revealing a silken yuzu crémeux marrying into notes of mandarin and lime as the Jivara bomb, adorned in myriad crunchy caramelised hazelnuts unearthed thick milk chocolate and crisp paper light wafer, with the banquet journey, thus concluded with a smooth Don Julio, 1942 Negroni.
Before long the hosts took it on themselves to whip up several extra rounds of Whispering Angel’s finest, as the lights dimmed down a notch or three before the DJ’s infectious tunes riveted the air, getting the party truly well and started as the Hakkasan team snaked their way through the throng, rosé magnums in hand, and the crowds loosened up all inhibitions mingling together until the clock struck 4pm.
In a nutshell
The Chinese tradition of banqueting has firmly reigned as a beacon of glistening pride to reflect both the collective culture, and China’s treasured history where deep bonds and priceless friendships were forged around the dining table; a gourmet art the Lost in Shanghai series at Hakkasan Hanway Place has victoriously endeavour to introduce to their elite beaus and belles, but with that touch of ritzy pizzaz.
As the Hakkasan group continues on with gastronomical quest for culinary supremacy, well heeled diners are invited to savour their cultured tastebuds on an ambrosian feast of dining delights, and dramatic cocktails creations while remaining true-blue to the humble soul of their cherished, deep rooted Chinese origins.
Factbox
The Lost in Shanghai brunch series takes place on the last Saturday of each month, priced at £98 per person for a selection of dishes, welcome cocktail and bottle of Whispering Angel, Côtes de Provence Rosé between two. Additional add-ons can be organised for an additional cost.
Address: 8 Hanway Place, London, W1T 1HD
Phone: 0207 927 7000
Website: hakkasan.com/hanway-place
All imagery credit: Hakkasan
