Despite having only recently opened – in fact, full completion of the resort is still underway – The Anantara Kalutara is a tranquil haven, seemingly a million miles away from the relentless pace of the capital, yet only an hour’s drive away – and in fact, being driven, as we were, in a resort shuttle, airconditioned, wifi-enabled and stocked with snacks and chilled water – an hour almost wasn’t long enough.
Even the approach to the resort is soothing: it’s been developed with such sympathy to the surrounding area that there’s absolutely no sense, as you drive up, of something looming ahead; in fact it’s a surprise to discover that the resort is as large as it is. Low rise, squareish buildings are surrounded by tall palms and lushly planted gardens in a style that’s instantly recognisable as Tropical Modernism – so it’s no surprise to learn that Geoffery Bawa, Sri Lanka’s most celebrated architect and the one whose name is synonymous with this style – provided the vision for the resort.
It’s impossible to enumerate the touches of hospitality and attention that we received during our stay. A welcome dance on arrival, performed while smiling staff stood ready to offer us flowers, cold towels and fresh king coconuts to enjoy during a seated check-in. By the pool, a perforated wooden paddle holding ice cream cones was presented to us; later on in the afternoon, another staff member cycled around the pool serving bowls of ice cream from a freezer-box attached to his ride – and of course, if we preferred a gin & tonic, all we had to do was ask and one would soon be forthcoming. At breakfast – well, I mean, we’ve all seen some pretty impressive breakfast buffets in our time but this was something else: a spread so lavish that I could happily have still been there at midday, and that’s even as a non-gluten eater, a dietary requirement which staff were more than adept at handling.
The wide, private balconies of our rooms overlooked the lagoon, a view just jungly and exotic enough to serve as a reminder of being somewhere distinctly and wonderfully different from home, even while the room itself, with its vast bed, cool neutral decor and occasional bright pops of colour, was completely serene and restful. The presence of a Nespresso machine reassured me that I could ease into my mornings before heading down to breakfast – while by night, an unobtrusive turn down service refreshed the room with bottles of cool water, dainty macaroons and cosy slippers.
Time by the pool took up a large portion of our days here – no surprise, with a long-haul flight and an odd five and a half hour time difference, not to mention the spa staff who come around at regular intervals to give you mini massages and a taster of the relaxation and wellness delights they can offer with a full treatment. Even so, the view beyond the trees and across the water, of Kalutara itself served as a reminder that there was exploring to be done. But first, another G&T and a perusal of the poolside menu: the ceviche delivered to me a short while later was sublime – almost too pretty to eat with its flowers and whisper-thin shreds of vegetables perched atop it, but eat it I did, and every mouthful was as sparklingly zingy as the last. Shortly before sunset, we wandered through the hotel grounds (realising, with some surprise, that closer to the beach there are wings still under construction: it’s a testament to the whole ethos of the resort that this is being achieved so unobtrusively) and, making our way through the dunes, witnessed one of the most stunning sunsets we’ve ever seen. Pure magic.
Dinner at Spice Traders was a treat for every one of the senses: clusters of basket lanterns hanging from the ceiling cast a warm glow, which was reflected by the beaten, dimpled silver platters and cutlery in place on the tables, while delicious sights and smells emanated from the central show kitchen. The menu featured a tempting choice of local dishes – curries, as you’d expect, but also a great seafood selection, including grilled lobster with garlic and lemongrass, or fresh lime seabass, as well as five or six vegetarian options. A decent wine list and a range of exotic desserts rounded off the evening perfectly.
Inspired by the presentation of the food and the subtlety of flavours, we decided to combine our desire to explore the surrounding area with a personal Spice Spoons cooking session, which involved being met by one of the chefs after breakfast and travelling by tuk tuk to the local markets and spice factory to select ingredients from which to make our own lunch, under the chef’s expert guidance. I’ve had cooking lessons at resorts before, but never one which has allowed me to be a part of the entire process of sourcing the produce – and it’s utterly fascinating. The heat and bustle of the markets, the crude chopping boards fashioned from huge hunks of wood on which the bare-footed vendors slice glistening fish with cutlass-like knives, the vast mounds of chilies being ground on prehistoric-looking, hand-operated machinery while crowds of householders and restaurant owners jostle at the counter brandishing shopping lists in curlicued script. It’s exhilarating in its own right, an in-the-midst-of-it view of local life – but it’s all the more striking because of the contrast with the eventual – and incredibly delicate – presentation of the food at the resort.
On our return, the twenty minutes between us and the market may as well be light years, so quickly does any slight sense of fatigue fall away with the cold towels, refreshing arrack cocktail and calming atmosphere in the outdoor pavilion where the lesson is to take place. We’re free to be as involved or not as we choose, preparing vegetables or taking a break to flick through the large booklet we’ve been given, which details the history and influences surrounding Sri Lankan cuisine, as well as including a whole slew of recipes to try when we get home. That said, I’m not entirely sure how much credit we can take for the resulting lunch we gorge ourselves upon … it’s unbelievable.Exquisite. We eat and eat and eat, and keep eating until well after we’re full. That afternoon, we’re fit for nothing but some poolside lounging – although for those so inclined, the hotel can assist with arranging excursions to nearby cultural and natural attractions, with boat cruises, rainforest visits, whale watching and turtle hatcheries all on offer. And although many of the activities are brilliantly suitable for families, parents can also take a break from the kids for some spa-time or adults-only time by taking advantage of the fantastic kids club facilities.
Given that the Anantara is such an established resort chain, with a presence in so many desirable and exotic locations across the world, it’s not that surprising that our stay is so wonderful. What is surprising about it is the fact that it’s so relaxing and seamless when the resort isn’t even finished yet. A truly extraordinary stay in a truly extraordinary country: I can’t wait to return when the development is fully completed and open.
Address: St. Sebastian’s Road, Katukurunda, Kalutara, Sri Lanka / +94 34 222 0222
