Right around the corner from buzzing Leather Lane market in Farringdon sits chef Mark Jarvis’ modern British restaurant, Anglo. The décor is minimalist and has a mix of rustic wooden tables and industrial lamps hanging overhead. We’re welcomed in by Michael, who runs the front of house.
We’re told that Jarvis has just launched an excellent plant-based menu so we decide to have the chef send us some of his favourites from both the regular tasting menu and his new vegetable-focussed offering.
The first snack arrives and it’s a delightful chicken liver parfait with cranberries. It’s served in a cone, which adds the perfect crunch to the creamy parfait. We’re also given the plant-based version which uses aubergine, walnuts and beetroot.
I was pleasantly surprised to find out that the vegetarian take gave the original a run for its money! The flavour combinations were distinct and bold and made for a very satisfying bite.
The rest of our meal continued in this fashion with plant-based dishes like the rye taco with burnt lettuce, winter tomato umami, and cauliflower, coconut and horseradish plates giving off earthy and deep flavours.
Two of the more simple dishes on the menu really impressed me. The cheese and onion on malt loaf was salty, sweet, and comforting. The homemade bread with yeast butter and oak-smoked oil was absolutely delicious.
Again, the meaty element came out to play here and it showed how the team at Anglo consistently push the boundaries of traditional British flavours.
Some of the meat dishes we had off the regular menu included the smoked haddock soup, which had a cod brandade and egg yolk curd. It was the perfect spring dish and had bursts of both colours and flavours.
Jarvis showed off his love for locally-sourced ingredients with the Swaledale aged pork collar glazed with miso mustard and finished with a sourdough and sage crumb.
The succulent pork was expertly balanced out by the miso glaze and was extremely flavoursome. We ended our meal with a frozen chocolate and water mousse with apple chips and toasted fennel seeds.
With its weekly changing menu and excellent plant-based options, Anglo takes British cuisine to a new level.
Progressive dishes that stay true to traditional ingredients, flavours that play on your taste buds and a welcoming atmosphere make this neighbourhood gem a brilliant choice for a working lunch or intimate dinner.
Address: 30 St Cross St, London EC1N 8UH
Phone: 020 7430 1503
Website: anglorestaurant.com
