Words by Marianna Hunt
For many people, the end of daylight saving time in late October heralds the season when all you can drink is heavy, heart-tingling red wines – the season of roaring fires and calorie-dense comfort food.
But that view has become a bit outdated. More and more people are drinking white wine throughout the year – finding it lighter and more versatile than big, punchy reds.
It also suits people’s changing diets, as an increasing number of us are eating healthier and eschewing things like rich red meat for leaner, more plant-based diets.
However the style of white that can carry you right through winter is very different to the uber-crisp wines you’d sip away at on summer holidays. From rich, creamy Chardonnays to mouth-drying Georgian amber wines, these are the bold whites to drink as temperatures drop.
Orin Swift ‘Mannequin’ Chardonnay 2022, Napa Valley
The glowing golden colour says it all. This is a rich, decadent wine that really comes into its own in winter.
Not least because of the high alcohol content (15%) that could knock you out in summer.
It’s made from grapes – mostly Chardonnay – sourced from the best vineyards around sunny California, so you get lots of ripe fruit flavours, like mango, peach and apricot. The complex ageing process (including some time in oak) means you also get some wonderful creamy, biscuity notes that last for a while on the palate.
Something this rich needs a hearty, flavourful meal to accompany it. Think roast chicken, creamy mac-and-cheese and crisp goose-fat potatoes.
Price: £50
Tbilvino ‘Qvevris’ Rkatsiteli 2020/21
The best orange wines combine seamlessly the body and structure of a red with the freshness and acidity of a white wine. This makes them perfect winter quaffers for when a full-bodied red feels too much.
Orange (or amber) wine has deep roots in Georgian culture – where this one hails from. It’s made with an indigenous Georgian grape – a good conversation starter at parties – and comes from what is probably the country’s most famous winery.
The wine gives off aromatic notes of apricot, pear and walnuts and has a wonderful round texture that fills your mouth.
Its fuller body means it’s a great match for smoky lamb or a charcuterie selection (London Smoke & Cure has some excellent options for this) with some pickled walnuts.
Price: £13.99
2016 Riesling, GG Berg Rosenbeck, Leitz, Rheingau
One of the best ways to warm up on a wintery evening is with a plate of spicy food. If you’re nervous about pairing chili-laden dishes with wine, reach for Riesling. Its hint of sweetness calms down the impact of the spice and its characteristic burst of mouth-puckering citrus goes particularly well with high-acid Thai dishes.
This one is an absolute corker – particularly with a coconut milk and lemongrass curry. It comes from one of Germany’s grand cru wine estates, which marks the country’s most premier wine-growing areas.
Price: £35.99
ASDA Extra Special Châteauneuf-Du-Pape Blanc
Châteauneuf-Du-Pape is usually associated with premium red wines. But its hidden secret is the incredible white wines it also produces.
This one – from ASDA’s premium range – is rich and smooth on the mouth, with heady aromas of white peach and jasmine. Its depth and complexity mean the wine has already started picking up awards.
It works sublimely for Christmas parties, sloshing around in people’s glasses alongside smoked salmon canapés, trout pâté (try the one from The Fish Society), and deviled eggs.
Price: £22.75
Domaine Michel and Stéphane Ogier Viognier de Rosine 2022
Rich, ripe, juicy and rounded…viognier is a classic white wine for winter. And if the vanilla flavours of oaky Chardonnay aren’t your thing, an unoaked viognier is a great alternative.
Condrieu, in France, is famed for producing the best (and most expensive) viogniers. This one is made just down the road – the quality is arguably as good as many of those in Condrieu but the price is lower because it doesn’t have the famous name on the label.
Expect creamy apple and peach with a wonderfully oily texture. It too can handle a bit of spice – try it with aromatic Thai vegetables or chicken tagine.
Price: £29
Château Larrivet Haut Brion Blanc 2021
Similarly to Châteauneuf-Du-Pape, Bordeaux is not well-known for its white wines. This means local winemakers are used to making bold, powerful wines that go superbly with food – something they apply to their white wines too.
This one oozes intense aromatic aromas – lemon confit, tangerine zest. Give it some time in the glass and more complex smells will emerge like freshly baked pastries, melon and honey.
You could easily drink this on Christmas Day, with herby-stuffed turkey, lemony roast potatoes and honeyed parsnips.
Price: £41.67
