Back in the early noughties Rainer Becker co-founded Zuma, an exciting brand of restaurants pioneering plates they describe as ‘authentic but not traditional’. Today the global restaurant group parades a string of sophisticated spaces championing contemporary Japanese food.
First opening in London’s Knightsbridge, Rainer – the German chef and restaurateur – with his team began to establish the group which, among others, today includes locations in Hong Kong, Dubai, Istanbul, Miami and Bangkok.
Earlier this year Zuma opened its French flagship in Cannes (within the legendary Palm Beach on Pointe Croisette). Introducing the French to the brand’s signature twist on the traditional Japanese Izakaya style, the latest edition adds to the culinary carousel available along the glamourous coastline. Taking a seat this summer at Zuma Cannes, I enjoyed the dishes from Zuma I know and love, whilst watching the golden French sun descend over the Cote d’Azur from the restaurant’s spacious terrace.
Remarking that he couldn’t have thought of ‘a better location for his French flagship’, I spoke with Rainer to find out how he may possibly be the most passionate (and knowledgeable) German when it comes to Japanese hospitality, what he learnt from his global career, his favourite dishes on the meuu, and what he feels Zuma Cannes will contribute to the dining scene.
Having grown up in Germany can you tell me how you first became fascinated by Japanese food and culture?
I had the amazing opportunity in the early ‘90s to work in Japan after spending two years in Australia with Park Hyatt. I always had an interest in Asian cuisine and in 1993/1994 I went to Tokyo and spent the next six years living and breathing the culture. So different, unique, based on strong values, traditions steeped in a rich and colourful history.
Your career has blossomed on an international journey from Cologne to Sydney and Tokyo. How have these contrasting destinations influenced your career?
I feel I learned a lot from the different cultures I experienced on the three continents I was lucky to travel to. It opens your mind to think outside the box and gives you the courage to do something different. Travelling and living in different countries allows you to appreciate their way of living.
Can you shine a light on the elements of Japanese culture you find so fascinating and how this manifests in the Zuma experience?
I was fascinated by the Izakaya restaurants on the streets of Tokyo and wanted to replicate their energy in a way that would speak to the western market. In a Japanese Izakaya you found people from all walks of life: that inspired me, and I always intended Zuma be somewhere everyone could enjoy – whether for a drink at the bar, a bite of sushi at the counter or a selection of dishes from the grill or the main kitchen in the restaurant.
Your latest opening is in Cannes. What do you feel Zuma will contribute to the iconic reputation of the Côte d’Azur?
When the opportunity arose to open in the Côte d’Azur, we seized it without hesitation. This iconic location, with its perfect sunset views, was an ideal setting for Zuma. We didn’t anticipate the incredible impact it would have on the French Riviera, but the reception has been extraordinary, and the venue has a vibrant energy every night. We are excited to see how it will continue to grow and evolve in the future.
What has been one of the biggest challenges of your career?
The biggest challenge was definitely the opportunity I was given when I went to the Park Hyatt in Tokyo. 99 Japanese chefs, two foreign chefs (me being one of them!) and I had to bring five new restaurant concepts to the Japanese market back in 1994. But it was also the most rewarding experience. And then, of course, taking the plunge when I got back to London, and opened Zuma in 2002.
Tell us about Oblix and taking on a European-style project, away from your honed skills as a Japanese expert?
When I first visited the Shard, I was immediately captivated by the view. It had a certain feel that reminded me of New York, which inspired my vision for a grill restaurant. Having opened Japanese restaurants for many years, I was eager to create something different while still incorporating elements that I love such as the open fire style of cooking.
What is your favourite dish to order at Zuma and why?
My favourites are some of the ones with the simplest ingredients and are still on the menu over 20 years later – chicken wings with sea salt; tuna tataki salad; grilled seabass with green chilli and ginger dressing.
Do the menus change throughout the various locations? If so, how?
The core of the Zuma menu remains consistent worldwide, but you will find unique specials at various locations. This is because our chefs are encouraged to experiment with creating new dishes using the best of the local ingredients.
Lastly, what’s next for you and your culinary empire?
The coming years are incredibly exciting for us as we progress with plans for the brands’ expansion. This includes the upcoming Zuma in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia, our first location in Central America with Zuma Cabo and Zuma will also be coming to St Tropez. Additionally, we have plans for the growth of both Roka and Oblix which we look forward to.
Factbox
Address: Palm Beach Cannes, Pl. Franklin Roosevelt, 06400 Cannes, France
Phone: +33 4 12 38 12 38
Website: zumarestaurant.com/locations/cannes.
All imagery credit: Zuma
