The beloved classic Chronicles of Narnia series has since its spellbinding genesis, played a powerful role in capturing the avid readers imagination of our young ‘uns around the UK and beyond, with mesmerising Herculean gods, enchanting, battles between good and evil and of course, the magical wooden wardrobe.
Brought to life by British writer CS Lewis in 1950, the first portal fantasy novel of The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe has periodically triumphed in stirring up those reverie school day memories, when Lucy first enters the wardrobe to discover Mr Tumnus in the evermore winter world of Narnia, or the great lion Aslan and his tragic sacrifice to spare Edmund’s life, before his miraculous resurrection which led to the victorious battle against the White Witch.
Transporting their discerning diners onto a nostalgic, childhood odyssey of this cherished wintertide tale abundant with refined wholesome delicacies, the lofty luxe modern European eatery of the English capital’s iconic Duck and Waffle has transformed their towering gourmet sanctum into their own enthralling winter wonderland of Narnia, where invitees are embarked on an adventure reminiscent of Lucy, Edmund, Susan, and Peter’s journey, through the wardrobe and into the mysterious winter realm.
Nestled right above the cloudy 40th floor tip of the Salesforce Tower, (one time Heron Tower) barely a five minute walk from London’s Liverpool Street, this bon vivant haven has earnestly stood tall as one of the city’s highest and most famed panoramic rooftop dining sanctums since opening its glossy doors back in 2012, continuing to woo both their devoted culinary connoisseurs, and a fresh legion of epicurean enthusiasts with a menu literally available 24/7, which has had the booking line on a constant ring alert at all hours.
Sashaying inside with a swagger like groove, a gleaming glass lift had me whisked up to the restaurant’s pinnacle summit reaching a monumental 230m in a mere few blinks of the eye, or to the letter forty seconds gazing down over the blanket of London’s riveting views and soaring past the hedonistic fusion dynamo of Sushisamba, sitting below. The spellbinding reform of this sky-high dining destination began to weave its sorcery within the backdrop of the bar, with its taintless floor to ceiling windows unveiling an freshly envisioned, immersive snow coated nirvana which evoked Narnia’s glacial kingdom. Sheathed in hues of pristine white and cool blue, the setting of the White Witch’s frosted castle were laid besides striking trimmings of glittering icicles, a radiant beacon of that cherished lamppost and a colossal festive sleigh bedecked in soft fur throws, which was led by the statuesque golden sculpture of the imposing Aslan himself.
Deemed unjust not to indulge in one of Duck and Waffle’s toothsome festive concoctions while revelling inside the silken snug cocoon of the sleigh, the pre-brunch aperitif of Edmund’s Turkish Delight aroused those misty-eyed memories, as Edmund devoured the forbidden sugar coated candy given to him by the White Witch, solely to lure him into her ploy as he unwittingly betrayed his three siblings. An icy long cocktail confection, the floral and raspberry relish from Lanique’s rose liqueur had flawlessly given rise to the sinful sugared titbits which left Edmund wanting more, meshed with a tangy cut of fresh lemon and rose sherbet, before concluding with a mellow botanical burst from the Grey Goose essence of rosemary, and white peach setting the scene for the remaining afternoon affair.
Entering the core wintry sanctuary of the glistening dining room was an equally bedazzling experience, enriched in a celestial like palette of lustrous icy pigments as radiant twinkling snowflakes gently swayed from the ceiling, to give rise to the many, many glitter garnished Christmas trees dotted throughout the space. Always one to up the ante on their meticulous hosting prowess, the Duck and Waffle crew thought it highly unacceptable not to have me cushioned within one of their coveted window side settlements, soaking up the captivating 360° tapestry of London’s lionised landmarks sketching out the skyline beneath, as my ever debonair host encouraged me to just sit back, chillax, and let myself be pampered in their watchful company.
A country mile away from the hoity toity school of thought often pigeonholed in many a fine-dining establishments, the Duck and Waffle hosts embody a free and easy yet diligent persona, swirled with a witty sassy flair as they refused my request for a bottle of prosecco, instead choosing to settle on a bottle of their golden Veuve Cliquot “Yellow Label” Brut bustling with notes of caramelised toffee apple, and hints of crisp green apple as I gazed away at the colossal spectacle of the Gherkin right in neighbouring proximity.
Generous, hearty comfort classics lies at the beating heart of the menu at this high-reaching sybaritic institution, all the while entwined with a suave stylish panache as recently appointed executive chef Jonathan Bowers, strives to remain devoted to the cherished soul food ethos which has been both pleasing to both the eyes, as well as the palates of its haute-monde visitants. Sampling indulgent delights from their weekend brunch catalogue, the snack selection of the house bread revealed warm, pillow fluffed cheesy goodness whilst the polenta croquetas, in their moreish golden crisp covering oozed with lashing of velvety truffled cheese. The unforeseen champion of the snack array however rested with the “ribs”; sweetcorn ribs to be precise, tender, smooth with a delightful sweet and creamy profile further uplifted by the tangy bbq marinade, in to time I had found myself ordering a second helping.
Choosing to settle for the Duck and Waffle main couldn’t have been anymore a triumph, with a succulent, crispy confit duck leg melting in the mouth with every bite as it paired faultlessly with the rich cake like waffle, and vanilla hinted maple syrup. No greasy spoon fry up dare venture up into this aerial gourmet abode; lean Victorian sausages revealed tender minced pork brimming with meat juices, next to perfectly poached eggs and thick bacon slices fuelled with earthy smoked aromas all concluded with my ever essential, side order of truffle fries deliciously crunchy, and generously topped with ample shavings of earthy black truffle.
While the dark chocolate and peppermint roulade uncovered a more overly sugar milk chocolate profile that had me reach for the water many a times, the humble fair play attitude of the hosts cannot be ignored acknowledging the feedback as constructive over criticism, before reappearing with my favoured cosmopolitan cocktail without request to sip and savour on, as the sunlight hours shifted to a dusky sunset ambience before witnessing the city’s skyline radiated in a myriad of rainbow sparkles.
In a nutshell
The theatrical sky-scraper palace of Duck and Waffle has for over a decade, fascinated and satiated the appetites of grande cuisine connoisseurs seeking a deluxe, yet homely feasting affair to enjoy at any hour of the day or night which has seen it being taken to new dizzying heights, whether in the historically Scottish capital of Edinburgh, or the ultra boujee playground of Dubai.
With the London outpost currently elevated by this exquisite Wintertide installation, the inimitable ‘gastro diner,’ of Duck and Waffle celebrates the joy of mouthwatering dishes, theatrical aperitifs and festive furnishings in a cosy, yet vivacious atmosphere from dawn until dusk.
Factbox
The magical Narnia Christmas transformation will be available until the 6th January 2025.
Address: 110 Bishopsgate, London, EC2N 4AY
Phone: 0203 640 7310
Website: duckandwaffle.com/london
All imagery credit: Johnny Stephens Photography