Words by Lucy Handley
I’d never been to Mallorca – the largest of the Balearics – until a friend asked me to look after her home and cats in the small town of Binissalem, which sits in the central countryside, surrounded by vineyards and overlooked by the Serra de Tramuntana mountain range. Along with trusting me with her house and pets, she also leant me her car, meaning I could explore the island’s famous beaches and eateries with a view.
From a super-chilled beach club-style restaurant overlooking the sea to a buzzy tasting menu in the winding streets of Port de Pollenca in the north of Mallorca, I found eating out on the Spanish island a delight.
First up, I tried the Cotton Club Mallorca, a poolside restaurant, bar and all-day hangout with great views of the Costa de la Calma on the island’s southwest coast.
The Cotton Club made its name on Ibiza, and the formula is similar here – white decking, neutral linens, signature Champagne sangria make for the ideal recipe for a luxurious day out or long lunch. Accessed via a steep road and then along pretty, winding footpaths (it’s situated in the grounds of the five-star Hilton Mallorca Galatzo), guests can eat in the restaurant or poolside, choosing from top-grade sashimi and sushi followed by lobster, monkfish or crab.
I was too lazy to move from my poolside lounger so my waiter, Mario, set up a table next to my sunbed, and I loved the tuna tartare with wasabi ice-cream and then tried the slow-cooked octopus with sweet potato puree – there are plenty of salads and vegetarian options too. Service is friendly and efficient, and, knowing I was driving, staff offered me a non-alcoholic gin and tonic, which tasted close to the real thing.
I’d wanted to visit Mallorca’s dramatic north coastline ever since watching The Night Manager, the John Le Carre thriller adapted for TV a few years ago, where bad guy Richard Roper hides out in his clifftop pile surrounded by fabulous scenery. So, I headed to Port de Pollenca, just down the road, to sit with a drink on the waterside terrace of the 1920s-built four-star Hotel Hoposa Illa d’Or, situated at the far end of the tree-lined Pine Walk.
Again, I drove, so my waiter suggested a sparkling water with fresh lime juice, which arrived in a small jug so I could create my own cocktail of sorts, and I happily sat there for an hour as the sea turned silver.
Those lucky enough to be staying at the hotel can hire its restored 1950s boat for the day, a traditional Mallorcan llaüt called the Isabel Maria, while the athletically inclined can rent bikes, play tennis or work out at the Illa d’Or’s large gym.
For dinner, a friend recommended Terrae, a short walk from the Illa d’Or in Port de Pollenca’s winding backstreets. Chef David Rivas focuses on locally sourced food, and his seven-course tasting menu features regularly changing meat dishes and croquettes, as well as market vegetables. Don’t be surprised to find the likes of roast cactus with onion puree on the menu, or turnip salad with kale. Terrae also aims to be zero-waste, using seasonal produce cooked on a wood-fired grill, giving its food a delicious smoky flavour. Sitting on Terrae’s pavement terrace provided ample people-watching, a past-time I also enjoyed in Palma, Mallorca’s capital.
Palma is compact yet beautiful and is dominated by a striking cathedral that dates back to the 13th century. Getting a sense of the city is best done from above, so I headed to the rooftop bar of the five-star Sant Francesc Hotel Singular, a restored neoclassical mansion in Palma’s old quarter. Signature drinks include Dear Summer, a vodka-based cocktail with orange, lime, ginger and lavender, and the Spicy Sant Francesc, with whisky, vermouth, chili, raspberry, lemon, egg white.
To eat, a friend suggested Sa Placeta, a restaurant situated under the trees in a sheltered square, where local and natural wine are the focus and the food might include cauliflower with wild mushrooms, with egg ‘a baja’ – meaning it’s cooked to 65 degrees Celsius – and an almond praline. Sa Placeta’s street corner location makes it an ideal place to watch the world go by, one of my favourite ways to spend time in Mallorca. I have no doubt that I’ll be back to sample some more of the island’s cuisine and experiences.
Factbox
Cotton Club Mallorca
Address: Careterra Andratx, km 20, 07160 Costa de la Calma, Mallorca
Phone: +34 971 728 613
Email: reservations@cottonclubmallorca.com
Website: cottonlifestyle.com
Hotel Hoposa Illa d’Or
Address: Paseo Colón 265, 07470 Port de Pollenca, Mallorca
Phone: +34 971 865 100
Website: hoposa.es/hotels/illa-dor
Terrae
Address: Carrer de la Verge del Carme 28, 07470 Port de Pollenca, Mallorca
Phone: +34 620 70 72 52
Email: terraerrss@gmail.com
Instagram: @terraerestaurant
Sant Francesc Hotel Singular
Address: Plaza Sant Francesc 5, 07001 Palma de Mallorca, Mallorca
Phone: +34 971 495 000
Email: info@hotelsantfrancesc.com
Website: hotelsantfrancesc.com/en
Sa Placeta
Address: Plaça de la Pescateria 3, 07001 Palma, Mallorca
Phone: +34 971 230 244
Website: saplaceta.com
