From Benares to Gymkhana, Trishna to Veeraswamy, there is certainly no shortage of iconic Indian restaurants in London – but every so often, an unsung hero emerges and takes the capital’s food and drink scene by storm – and at the same time, takes its diners by (thoroughly pleasant) surprise.
Pahli Hill, located in London’s upscale Fitzrovia, might not hold a Michelin star just yet, unlike these well-known big-hitters – and it might not have the same rich history behind it either. But make no mistake; this culinary gem is doing some seriously great things, and it’s up there with the best of them regardless.
Since opening its doors back in 2020 – brave timing, to say the least – it has made quite the name for itself amongst foodies in the capital, and draws on all corners of India to deliver a bold and flavoursome menu that celebrates the diversity of this majestic subcontinent.
Show-stopping cuisine
With talented head chef Avinash ‘Avi’ Shashidhara at the helm, you know you’re in good hands from the off. Avi, who is of Indian descent, spent fifteen years cooking in notable restaurants across Europe prior to taking up the position, counting French Masters including the Michelin ordained Claude Bosi as well as with the rock star of Italian food, Ruth Rogers at River Cafe amongst his mentors. But after eventually realising that his true calling in life was to cook Indian food professionally, he began dreaming of a venue where he could really do it in style – and having raided his own family’s vast recipe archives, set about bringing it to life in the shape of Pahli Hill.
Authentic flavours are at the heart of the restaurant’s exciting menu, drawing inspiration from the mouth-watering dishes he himself has been enjoying since childhood. But of course, he’s added a touch of his own unique flair to turn them into real show-stoppers, with a taste of Indian culture and heritage in every bite.
The atmosphere at Pahli Hill is buzzy and sociable, with a ‘Small Plates’ section on the menu that is designed for sharing and that promises to get conversations going amongst you and your guests. If you’re after something a little more substantial, then the ‘Tandoor’ and ‘Grill’ sections will satisfy any appetite – and of course, there’s a tempting array of sides to go with them and decadent desserts to round things off.
Highlights range from the steamed Dorset mussels with coconut cream to the tandoori Cornish monkfish with saffron yoghurt, and the chargrilled Cornish lamb rump with crispy curry leaves and mint to the home style chicken curry with star anise, stone flower and fennel. It’s a diverse and exotic line-up that centres around fresh and seasonal British produce with rich and heady flavours from across India, with something to suit a wide array of tastes and palates.
Flawless wine pairings
Beyond its cuisine, Pahli Hill has also got wine pairings down to a fine art. Award-winning female sommelier Henny Zinzuwadia – who was, rather impressively, crowned GQ’s sommelier of the year in 2022 – has the perfect pick on hand to elevate every dish, with an extensive and thoughtfully compiled wine list which blends England’s finest vineyards with the Orange wines of South Africa and Austria through to exciting vintages from Portugal – and of course, the French classics too.
A buzzy cocktail bar
And on the subject of beverages, the Bandra Bhai cocktail bar, which is tucked away beneath Pahli Hill, is another of the city’s best-kept secrets. Whisking you back to times gone by the moment you set foot inside, it’s trendy and sophisticated in equal measures, and exudes a sense of opulence at every turn. From plush velvet furnishings and gold trinkets to bold art, it’s got personality by the bucket load, and is the perfect spot for an aperitif or post-dinner nightcap. The Monk’s Elixir and the Mango Lassi No. 6 are must-tries.
In a nutshell
Pahli Hill might not yet hold a coveted Michelin star, but we wouldn’t be surprised if one was around the corner, and when the time comes, its sought-after tables are certain to start booking up even further in advance. For the self-confessed foodie, it’s certainly one to watch in 2025 – so if you’re looking for a decadent dining experience to start your new year off in style with, then look no further.
Factbox
Address: 79-81 Mortimer St, London W1W 7SJ
Phone: 020 8130 0101
Website: pahlihillbandrabhai.com
