Sleek Brazilian restaurant Bossa opened its doors on the border of Marylebone and Mayfair in May 2023 to much acclaim – so naturally, when I was invited along to check it out, I couldn’t resist. The restaurant – headed up by talented chef Nilson Chaves (ex-Oteque, Rio de Janeiro) - takes a fine dining approach to traditional Brazilian flavours and dishes, offering a sophisticated twist on this flavourful cuisine, and word on the street has been that this might just be the best Brazilian in eatery in London.
The restaurant
The entrance to Bossa is through a grand arched doorway, just as you’d expect in this affluent part of the city. Inside, the interiors are strikingly sleek, with a high-ceilinged dining room featuring a wide bar lined with premium bottles that offers the perfect spot for pre-dinner drinks. The restaurant exudes elegance and sophistication, with a stylish aesthetic and large pieces of modern artwork adorning the walls, and is an intimate space comprising a mixture of central booths and banquettes.
There’s also an open kitchen running across one end of the room so that diners can watch the chefs in action, and for an immersive and up-close experience, you can request to be seated at its counter. Or, if you’re dining as a group and are seeking a more exclusive space, then there’s a private dining area that seats ten.
Hidden underneath Bossa is its sister venue Maroto, a bar and lounge with plush art eco seating and wide Brazlian-influenced cocktail list – the perfect spot for a digestif or drinks late into the evening.
The chef
Head chef Chaves is Brazilian born and bred and has a wealth of notable restaurant experience under his belt – so he certainly knows that it takes to take delectable Brazilian cuisine that exudes authenticity, and elevate it with a fine dining-inspired twist.
Having begun his culinary career back in 2010 working in independent restaurants in Rio de Janeiro, he later went on to enroll at renowned chef Alain Ducasse’s French Culinary Programme in Rio, before also studying at esteemed Culinary Institute of America.
His gastronomical prowess has been honed in kitchens all over the world, including three years as Sous Chef at Oui Oui, the now closed Bib Gourmand restaurant in Rio, and additional time at the three-Michelin-starred Le Bernardin in New York.
One of his proudest roles, until now, was as head chef at the respected Oteque restaurant back on home soil, in the Rio neighbourhood of Botafogo, where he was instrumental in positioning the eatery as one of the city’s most talked about gastronomical dining experiences.
The restaurant was awarded its first Michelin star within its first few months of trading, with its second star following just a year later. In June 2019, a year after opening, Oteque was also awarded number 100 in The World’s 50 Best Restaurants and rose to a career high of 47 in 2022.
So it stands to reason then, that in his new position at Bossa, he’s doing great things, and likely, is just getting started. A man of obvious culinary talent, his creations are quickly becoming classics, and have already won the restaurant much praise in foodie circles across the capital and beyond.
The food
The menu at Bossa offers a range of sharing plates to start – two each is about right – followed by a choice of larger mains. Many dishes are cooked on the charcoal grill and all exhibit well-balanced flavours and original combinations, with the inclusion of some lesser-seen ingredients adding to the appeal.
The food is, to put it simply, quite sensational – in fact, it was some of the finest I’ve had the pleasure of tasting this year.
The menu is split into three sections – The Beginning, The Middle and The End, with guests encouraged to choose as they wish and be guided by the knowledgeable staff on any new flavours or ingredients.
I began with the crab pastel – a twist on this traditional Brazilian street food. Similar in appearance to the humble empanada, these Brazilian parcels were packed with flavour and elevated to the very finest of fine dining heights with an incredible bubbly, crisp dough encasing a filling of succulent picked crab – all served alongside a rather rich and vibrant açaí berry dip.
Also chosen from the ‘Beginning’ section of the menu, I opted for the scallops served with leeks, toasted buckwheat, and scallops cream. The scallops were plump and juicy, but were expertly charred on the outside to the point of gentle caramelisation. Served atop a bed of sweet, creamy leeks, toasted buckwheat and a delicate cream sauce, the combination made for a very intricate and very balanced dish that boded extremely well for what else was to come.
For mains – or ‘Middle’ – I decided upon the duck breast, which was served with roasted plantain, purple broccoli and parsley yogurt. The duck was served medium rare and was tender, succulent and beautifully cooked for a truly melt in the mouth sort of dish. It was, however, rather protein-centric, so if you’re in need of some carbs to mop up those strong Brazilian caipirinha cocktails, then I’d recommend ordering a side of pink fir potatoes for the perfect complementary dish.
Although I didn’t try it myself, I’ve heard great things about the crackling pork belly, which is served in a Feijoada broth with marinated Swiss chard. Feijoada, if you didn’t know, is a classic Brazilian stew made from pork and beans, and exudes a mouthwatering smoky flavour – and by all accounts, this particular take on it is said to be other-worldly.
Next up, it was time for something sweet. Eager to try an authentic Brazilian dessert from the ‘End’ section of the menu, I plumped for the classic Quindim, which is made from set custard and ground coconut, and gets its bright yellow colour from the high concentration of egg yolks in it. It’s visually very striking, and beautifully served as a work of art on a plate. The perfect way to end a wonderful meal. If it sounds a little too rich for you after all of the previous courses, then for something lighter, try the cupuaçú cheesecake, made with a chocolatey tropical fruit that is popular in Brazil – or choose the palate-cleansing açsi sorbet instead.
If you fancy popping in at lunchtime, then Bossa has recently launched a brand new set lunch menu, which is available from Tuesday to Saturday from 12pm, and offers two courses for £40 or three courses for £45. This quicker and more accessible way to dine showcases the best Brazilian flavours and ingredients from the main menu, with dishes like Beef Tartare with Shiitake Confit and Mustard Mayonnaise, the timeless Seafood Moqueca, and of course, that Bossa favourite, Quindim Egg and Coconut Custard, making up the short but sweet menu.
And of course, an excellent selection of wines by the glass are available to accompany each course, hand-picked by Bossa’s head sommelier Lais Aoki.
So, is this the best Brazilian restaurant in London? I think it just might be. With inspired flavour combinations, beautiful presentation and clear passion for his work from head chef Chaves, it’s easy to see why Bossa is fast becoming one of the hottest dining spots in the capital, and with its moody and intimate feel and sophisticated vibe, I’ll certainly be back for more.
Factbox
Address: 4 Vere St, London W1G 0DG
Phone: 020 3062 5844
Website: bossa.co.uk
All imagery credit: Bossa
