Set in the heart of South Africa’s food and wine oasis is Babylonstoren, a beautifully restored Cape Dutch farm dating back to 1692. With myriad magnificent gardens, sweeping vineyards and a mountain backdrop, since being brought back to life over a decade ago, it has become an iconic country escape inspiring visitors globally.
The romantic French-designed gardens are home to trees of historical and botanical significance alongside thriving vegetable patches, orchards abundant with fruit, nuts and indigenous plants. This is alongside flocks of ducks and chickens, beehives, and a prickly pear maze. Meanwhile, a farm-to-fork philosophy is championed across three contemporary restaurants and serve dishes that showcase the farm’s high quality produce. This, of course, is served with Babylonstoren’s wine, a signature that has made its mark globally.
Following my visit I spoke with cellar master Charl Coetzee. Completing undergraduate studies in Viticulture and Oenology at Stellenbosch University with an Honours degree in Oenology and an MBA in 2014, Charl was recruited to head up the Babylonstoren cellar in 2010. Over a decade later, Charl oversees a few departments as part of his role as cellar master, this includes winemaking and the olive oil press.
Charl speaks with LLM, detailing his varied and significant role at Babylonstoren, particularly how he has been an integral part of the flourishing estate, and all it has achieved over the last 14 years.
Babylonstoren is a natural oasis, can you tell me how it embodies the finest South African food and drink?
Food and wine give us the opportunity to tell a story. They symbolise far more than just a dish on a plate or wine in a glass. It is not just about the chef or winemaker, but also about the ingredient, producer, animal, vegetable, cook, waiter, farmer, supplier – every link in the chain. Food and wine are a symphony performed by many individuals, involving different elements. And that is what I love most about the food and wine we offer at Babylonstoren – when that symphony works together perfectly. Food and wine always bring people together.
The food in Babylonstoren’s farm-to-fork restaurants is simple, generous, and honest. It is fresh, seasonal and closely tied to its origins in the garden, farm and region. Our style of food leans towards simplicity, but we play with unexpected flavour combinations and new varieties of fruit and vegetables in every meal. And while our meals are creative, we don’t like to tamper unduly with our food. Our meals are always clear in structure so that fruit and vegetables gathered daily from the garden and farm are often served whole or with the skin on – we believe our guests must be able to see what they are eating.
Our wines are best exemplified by the Babylonstoren logo, which consists of the pipe (representing the farmer), the flower (representing the garden), and the bird (representing nature). It’s a combination of the very essence of Babylonstoren, in other words, keeping things as simple and true to the earth as possible. It is this that we strive to achieve in our wine. Truth to the area we are situated in, on the slopes of Simonsberg, and simplicity by making elegant and balanced wines as natural as possible.
What do you love so much about South African wine, particularly the wine Babylonstoren produces?
South African wines can stand up against the best in the world, if not better, particularly in the international market where they come at a very good price. This accessibility enables people to purchase excellent wines at an affordable rate. With the Simonsberg Mountain as a backdrop, Babylonstoren sits at the heart of South Africa’s Cape Winelands. Vineyards range wildly in soil types and altitudes, from 150 to 600 meters above sea level.
This variation results in adjacent vineyards producing fruit with subtly different flavours, providing more blending options for our winemaker to create exceptional wines. All wines are made in state-of-the-art cellars, incorporating both new and old winemaking traditions that showcase the soils and climate where the grapes are grown. Varieties on Babylonstoren include chardonnay, chenin blanc, viognier, sémillon, shiraz, mourvèdre, pinot noir, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, malbec, petit verdot, and pinotage.
You say you get to travel and this is something you dreamt of. How do your travels inspire your work at Babylonstoren?
Being able to travel opens one’s eyes to the world, inspiring continuous improvement and innovation that I integrate into my work to enhance the quality of our offering and guest experience. It’s a privilege to explore diverse cultures and see new places, broadening my perspective. In the process, one learns to be comfortable in various settings, becoming ‘streetwise,’ so to speak.
Career highlights at Babylonstoren include starting up the Babylonstoren wine cellar and the subsequent brand development, along with early wine sales. Over the years, I’ve witnessed Babylonstoren’s international reputation grow, gaining insights into various market trends. What’s most gratifying for me is that there’s hardly a place I’ve travelled to where someone hasn’t been to Babylonstoren or heard about the farm. Sitting in a restaurant in New York and seeing a waiter serve a bottle of Babylonstoren wine to the table next to me is an amazing encounter. It makes me proud to be part of the team and inspires me to continuously do my best and stay true to what we do – offering exceptional experiences to our guests.
Is wine making in your family heritage? And how did you know Viticulture and Oenology was something you wanted to study?
No, winemaking is not in our family. My journey into the world of wine began when I pursued a science degree at the University of Stellenbosch, that is nestled in the heart of South Africa’s Cape Winelands. It was during my first year that I became involved in my residence’s wine club, igniting a passion that grew stronger. By my second year, I made the decision to specialise in Oenology and Viticulture, planting the seed for my future in the industry.
As a cellar master, I relish the dual role I play in both the winemaking and representing Babylonstoren on a global scale. Babylonstoren has given me the opportunity to realise many personal aspirations and goals. It has also exposed me to the challenges and rewards of operating within a corporate setting. Working alongside some of the brightest minds in business, I continue to learn and grow, embracing each opportunity for professional development and innovation.
How do the various departments you work in complement and work alongside each other on the farm?
Babylonstoren’s core is its magnificent garden. And so, every endeavour is guided by its every-changing tapestry and botanical diversity. The team honours the season to produce a true reflection of Mother Nature’s generosity, which is then shared with our visitors via the garden, farm restaurants, winery and retail platforms. With this approach we allow the seasons to guide all our labours on the farm and to create an unforgettable experience.
Every single person here shares that passion. There is not one single person at Babylonstoren who doesn’t believe in what we do. Everywhere you go on the farm, every single person is trying to achieve the best experience in the field that they are working in. The shared knowledge and each team member’s passion make Babylonstoren a magical place and, in turn, this translates into an incredible experience for our guests.
You say you love your role as it gives you the opportunity to learn from some great minds in the business. Can you give some examples of this?
The best example here would be the amazing opportunity to be exposed, daily, to someone like our owner, who is internationally known as a successful, forward-thinking businessman. Most of my friends in the business world would do anything to just meet him.
Can you share an insight on the biggest challenges you’ve faced in your career?
Babylonstoren never stagnates, there is always a sense of growth and innovation. If someone has an idea, there is an opportunity for it to be developed and everyone gets on board to ensure its success. There is freedom of movement within the workspace, and this is very rewarding in both a personal and professional capacity.
It’s a place where you’re continually challenged to step outside your comfort zone, fostering personal growth. Personally, I’ve experienced this first-hand when I was tasked to develop a new product – a two-piece tin containing cured olives in an oval shape. Despite lacking expertise in food science, I embraced the challenge. What was initially intended as a six-month project ended up spanning two years, filled with countless sleepless nights. Yet, through perseverance, we eventually triumphed, a testament to the spirit of innovation that defines Babylonstoren.
You have worked at Babylonstoren since 2010. How has the estate changed and evolved over the years?
Babylonstoren is always progressing and constantly producing new ideas and directions to move, improve, and grow. The farm dates back to 1692. The oldest buildings were erected in the late 17th century, with the Manor House dating back to 1777.
After the property was bought by the current owners in 2007, French architect Patrice Taravella, owner of Prieuré Notre Dame d’Orsan (near Bourges in France), designed the garden. Over the next few years, pergolas, gravel pathways and water canals were built. During 2009, the gardeners started preparing the soil and did most of the planting for the formal garden.
Since Babylonstoren’s opening to the public in 2010, the farm has embraced growth to incorporate new chapters of farm life into its portfolio. However, every aspect of Babylonstoren is informed by the ever-changing tapestry and botanical diversity of the garden. This includes the contemporary Farm Hotel and Garden Spa, the Farm Shops, Scented Room, farm-to-fork restaurants, winery, and function venues.
What are you most passionate about when it comes to working with wine and olive oil?
Quality, quality, quality… To be successful in both endeavours, one must never compromise on quality. When it comes to working with wine and olive oil, my passion lies in the journey these products take from vineyard or orchard to table.
Both wine and olive oil have origins intertwined with the land they come from. What excites me the most is the opportunity to delve into this narrative, to explore the terroir that gives each bottle of wine or tin of olive oil its unique character. I’m passionate about the creation, from the cultivation of grapes and olives to the harvesting and pressing processes. There’s magic in witnessing the transformation of raw ingredients into a quality product. Wine and olive oil also bring people together, whether it’s through sharing a bottle of wine over a meal or drizzling fresh olive oil over bread.
And lastly, can you give us an insight into what you’re working on next at Babylonstoren?
We are working on captivating projects and a new addition that we’ll share more about soon. At Babylonstoren, there is always the element of discovery – something new to discover every time guests visit. It evokes the inner child. For instance, in 2020, we added a subterranean wine tunnel offering guests a journey through centuries of making and storing wine, along with a tasting around the large wooden table in a wine tunnel.
In 2022, we added an interactive wine museum, called The Story of Wine, that showcases the history and cultivation of wine through antique corkscrews, terroir breakdowns and exhibits on wine tasting and aromas. This year, Babylonstoren will once again attend the RHS Chelsea Flower Show as the official rosé wine sponsor, featuring our new 2024 vintage.
Personally, I aim to further enhance Babylonstoren’s international appeal, particularly through our exceptional wines.
Factbox
Address: 5WFF+GP, Klapmuts – Simondium Rd, Simondium, 7670, South Africa
Phone: +27 21 863 3852
Website: babylonstoren.com
