Anyone hunting out a living human definition of the word ‘hustle’ should look in the direction of Adam Byatt.
A seriously credible work ethic and cooking forte from an early age saw him inside the much-coveted hotel icon Claridge’s in his youthful teens. It was then inevitable for Adam to catch the eye of ‘chef’s chef,’ Phil Howard. Under the wing of his culinary prodigy, Adam was rewarded with the sous chef appointment at Mayfair’s Square, one of London’s grandest gourmet destinations already sitting snug inside the highly prized, Michelin star fraternity, courtesy of the wholesome menu of sautéed langoustine, and soft parmesan gnocchi.
With Adam’s cordon blue calibre behind the kitchen table, a mere twinkling of the eye saw Square witness their sous chef play a pivotal role in further catapulting the haute cuisine eatery, and earn yet another luminary star in 1998 for them to brandish.
Fast forward to the present day, Adam stands tall as the proud owner of Clapham’s Michelin gem and Hardens top ten rated Trinity, not neglecting the equally sumptuous destinations of Upstairs at Trinity, and Bistro Union. Each of his eateries plays a significant role in celebrating quintessentially British produce, and alluringly crafted menus of flavourful cuttlefish arancini, succulent rose veal, and meaty oyster mushrooms, with Trinity boasting a chef royalty guest list with the likes of Michel Roux, Tom Aikens, and Adam Handling to name a minor few.
Not content with his already enviable dining empire, Adam has also launched the alfresco sanctuary Outside at Trinity, joining hands in an illustrious partnership with champagne house Ruinart. Hot on Outside’s achievement heels is Adam’s recent chef directorship of food and beverage, at the classically contemporary dining haven of Mayfair’s Charlie’s, tucked inside the Rocco Forte’s historically lionised, Brown’s hotel.
It was a great pleasure to catch up with the chef-owner and find out about his take on overhyped food fads, future dreams and, of course, his recent brush with the royal family.
You come from quite the family of foodies, with your mother’s professional chef background and grandfather’s army cooking history. Would you say they were, somewhat, the culinary influencers in your career choice?
You would think so, but oddly I was drawn to the kitchen initially by the structure and momentum of the environment. I fell in love with cooking and food further on in my career, but having been brought up around great home cookery was certainly part of the decision-making process.
An opportunity inside the Claridge’s kitchen is practically the Hermes of the gastronomy world, how did it feel to win that placement, that took place right before the milestone sixteenth birthday?
Exciting yet daunting, but certainly felt proud I was able to see this as my way out and to a better life. Claridge’s still holds a very special place in my heart, and I will always be grateful for the chance the hotel and its senior team gave to me. My apprenticeship with the royal academy of culinary arts truly was the absolute turning point in my young life.
From running Trinity, Bistro Union and Upstairs to heading the food and beverage at Charlie’s, how do you divide your time between the establishments?
I have a very structured week spending what I feel is a meaningful time in each operation, working with my head chefs in each restaurant and my FOH teams. The goal is always to be the best version of the restaurant that it can be. I am blessed to have such an amazing and diverse team in each space, such that one can influence another, and our food style and ideals are aligned yet individual.
I definitely have a full, but satisfying schedule that can be very challenging, whilst equally incredibly rewarding when it goes well.
Do you have any favourite dishes from your restaurants’ menus?
We currently have a warm semi smoked salmon dish with a beurre blanc, a simple, classic but one that delivers pleasure. This one is currently on the menu in all four restaurants at the moment. I love this dish and the flavour of the smoked salmon warm is incredible. It does vary across the sites but absolutely delivers on point for our guests in spades.
How would you describe your cooking style?
Classical French cookery, which is up to the minute with harmony and, of course, flavour at the forefront.
Do you have a favourite time of year or set of ingredients that you look forward to working with?
Spring is a wonderful time, the emergence from winter to a bright colourful season with ingredients such as asparagus, wild garlic, rhubarb and morels. Spring is full of promise for the year ahead and in such contrast to the season it leaves behind.
With Clapham’s quirky scene and Mayfair’s Haut monde culture, would you say the restaurants are a strong reflection of their postcodes?
Very much so and driven by the clientele that frequents them. One of the best lessons I have learned is that just because a menu works in one location, absolutely does not mean it will work in another.
You must adapt and give the guests what they want first and foremost. I love our food offering at Brown’s hotel, it fits the clientele but is a stark contrast from the food at Trinity – I am very proud to be able to diversify yet hold the same values in food.
You served the Prince of Wales and Duchess of Cornwall at Trinity last year, how did that experience feel and what was the menu of the day?
Our royal visit was one of the most glorious days I have had at Trinity, partly as this was the first week back out of lockdown so a huge relief and exciting time. Being visited by HRH and Camilla, Duchess of Cornwall was an honour and privilege, one we will never forget.
My team served a selection of beautiful seasonal canapes to mark the occasion.
What would you highlight as your biggest achievement and more difficult challenge during your career?
I am very proud that we are still in business and remain relevant after sixteen years, no mean feat in a city bursting with talent and new openings. I am very proud of our Michelin star but the way in which my team and I reacted too, stood our ground, and came back from the Covid lockdown was amazing and I have never been prouder.
What in your opinion is the most over-hyped food trend?
Salt Bae
The Covid pandemic certainly sent the hospitality industry into a 360 spin, have there been any positive learning experiences from this?
Lots of positives for us. We made decisions on our number of covers and overall business model, which we would not have made otherwise. I also feel that it gave guests a newfound love of small independent restaurants – the support we were shown was heart-warming. We are a stronger business now than in 2019.
When you’re not in the kitchen where can you be found?
At home with my family and dog. Fishing, running or in a restaurant having a leisurely lunch also makes the list.
What would be your take on London’s gastronomy scene?
Quite possibly, the most diverse in the world, with exceptional restaurants showcasing a plethora of cuisines at a very high level all in one city.
What is your ultimate dream?
In actuality I am living it, I have everything I have ever dreamed of, but like everyone, I crave eventual freedom, space and time.
Do you have any advice for all the budding chefs out there?
Pain before pleasure. Do your time and do it properly and you will surely have your moment.
Factbox
Address: 4 The Polygon, London SW4 0JG
Phone: 020 7622 1199
Website: trinityrestaurant.co.uk
