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Meet the chef: Andrea Pesenti, executive chef at LUCi, Covent Garden in London

Opening in London’s West End last year, LUCi is an Italian eatery that champions the country’s love of baking. LLM’s Georgie Bentley-Buckle interviewed executive chef Andrea Pesenti.

By Georgie Bentley-Buckle   |  

Last summer Covent Garden welcomed LUCi, ‘London’s first Italian dining bakery’. One of the latest openings from the Aqua Restaurant Group, here is a restaurant champions the art of Italian baking in its many forms. This notably includes a long ‘bancone’ glass counter as you step into from the pavements of Long Acre, showcasing an edible line up of al forno baked creations made on site by the team.

Epitomising the heritage of Italy’s grand Milanese cafes, the spacious two floor restaurant is headed up by executive chef Andrea Pesenti (formerly executive chef of Princi in London). Inviting Londoners to discover his passion for Italian baking, from viennoiserie pastries and freshly baked breads with lovingly roasted coffee, to freshly baked focaccia Genovese, ciabattas and weekly-changing wood-fired pizzas. 

I spoke with Andrea on the inspiration that has fuelled his career, Veronese cuisine from a childhood spent in Verona, and LUCi’s place in the competitive London dining scene. 

Andrea Pesenti chef
Epitomising the heritage of Italy’s grand Milanese cafes, the spacious two floor restaurant is headed up by executive chef Andrea Pesenti. Image credit: Johnny Stephens Photography

You say your childhood home in Verona has inspired your work in the kitchen. Can you tell us more about how diners can taste this personal nostalgia?

I grew up in my mother’s cosmetic and perfume shop. Every weekend we used to visit my uncle Mario’s restaurant, “Cà del Diaolo”, and each summer I spent time there. I was helping serve espressos, pouring wine, and serving customers. This was my first introduction to hospitality. Then I discovered the kitchen with the cookery school, this changed my life entirely. I believe all my cooking is inspired by my past, reproducing all the simple dishes packed with flavours and soul.

What makes Veronese cuisine particularly stand out, and how have you woven this into the menu?

Italian cuisine is based on regional tradition, where every city has its own unique delicacy. Verona is in a strategic place in the Veneto region, with ingredients such as fish coming straight from Venice, truffle and cured meat, cheeses from Lessinia mountains and vialone nano rice from rural areas in the south of Verona. I am slowly bringing all these traditions to LUCi.

What do you think LUCi contributes to the London dining scene?

LUCi currently offers a full-on experience that no other place can give. Baking goods from the morning, a 19-meter-long counter with fresh salads and hot classic Italian food, wood-fired pizza, and pizza al taglio. What else could you ask for?

You’ve worked for some big names in London including The Shard and Bunga Bunga, tell us about your experience working at these places?

Bunga Bunga Covent Garden was my first real opening where I managed the design of the kitchen, staff, and overall operation. Robin (operations director) was a great mentor for me.

bread at LUCi, Covent Garden
Last summer Covent Garden welcomed LUCi, ‘London’s first Italian dining bakery’

LUCi has been open six months now. Has the restaurant faced any challenges?

I think that the public must get to know us, we aren’t a usual restaurant, but it is nice to see all our regular customers returning every day. 

The restaurant is said to be London’s first Italian Dining Bakery, can you expand on this concept?

LUCi is London’s first Italian Dining Bakery – with a long ‘bancone’ counter showcasing a huge selection of tasty ‘al forno’ baked goods, freshly made on the premises in LUCi’s ‘forno’ (ovens) and which change to reflect the time of day. Guests can take away or eat in with a sit-down menu of Italian classics served upstairs.

Covent Garden is in the heart of London’s theatre land. What makes LUCIi’s pre-theatre menu so special?

It’s a great deal, with very fast service and a few minutes’ walk away from most theatres. Oh and of course it’s delicious!

Do you have any favourite dishes on the menu? If so, why?

Tagliatelle al ragu! It was my Sunday premium lunch when I was young. The porchetta also reminds me of my hometown, I go crazy for it.

food selection at LUCi, Covent Garden
The long ‘bancone’ glass counter showcasing an edible line up of al forno baked creations made on site by the team

Lastly, what you do have planned next for LUCi?

Focus more on à la carte dishes and continue to introduce the public to our aperitivo hour and place LUCi as the perfect spot for after-dinner drinks.

Andrea spent many months curating the LUCi menu, this included scouring his Italian homeland for the finest produce to elevate even the simplest of dishes. One of Pesenti’s signatures is a thin Florentine-style focaccia, topped with green and yellow zucchini, sliced thinly and laid like fish-scales on top of the focaccia. 

LUCi offers affordable all-day Italian dining, whilst sharing the same philosophy and focus on ‘wow’ dishes as its sister outlets in Aqua Restaurant Group. The interior has been designed by award-winning designer Robert Angell and Aqua Restaurant Group founder David Yeo, with a look that captures the charm of the grand Milanese cafes past and present and combines the spirit of London with the sunshine of Italy. 

Factbox

Address: LUCi, 136 Long Acre, London WC2E 9AA
Phone: 020 3953 6820
Website: lucirestaurant.co.uk