Andrew Pern was born in Whitby and grew up close by on his parents’ farm in nearby Sleights. He attended Catering College in Scarborough, gaining experience working in France along the way. After working in local hotels and restaurants, he was appointed head chef at the Milburn Arms at the tender age of 21. Aged 25, he took over ownership of The Star Inn at Harome and quickly fashioned this into one of the first ever ‘gastropubs’ winning awards virtually on a monthly basis for his impressive cooking, which has always championed seasonal, local ingredients.
Andrew is also the author of two award-winning cookery books featuring recipes from his restaurants. More recently, his efforts have been on the expansion of his restaurant interests, all very different, but all with Andrew’s instinctive ability to provide the best package of good, old-fashioned hospitality.
We sat down with the popular Michelin-starred chef to find out a little more.
Can you tell us a little bit about yourself, including where you are today, professionally, and what got you here?
My name is Andrew Pern and I have been the chef/patron at the Michelin-starred Star Inn at Harome for the past 27 years, with directorships at The Star Inn The City in York since 2013 and, more recently, at the Refectory at York Minster. I believe that what got me where I am today was a love of what I do. I would have said a great deal of hard work, but when it is your passion, hard work does not seem so hard.
What or who inspired you to become a chef?
It’s a much-repeated story, but when I was young, my mum was diagnosed with MS and I gradually took over the family kitchen. I really enjoyed cooking and went to Scarborough Catering College and gained experience working in France to learn how the professionals do it.
Who has been your biggest influence to get you to where you are today?
The bank manager(s) who have believed in me along the way!
What’s your signature dish?
Grilled black pudding and pan-fried foie gras with pickering watercress, apple and vanilla chutney and a scrumpy reduction.
What are the most important considerations when crafting your menu?
The Star’s roots are firmly in the Yorkshire soil and we look to offer all the best of seasonal produce, but still aim to offer something for everyone.
Do your personal preferences influence the menu at all?
Definitely, I would not include dishes on the menu that I would not enjoy eating myself.
How would you describe your cooking style?
Modern Yorkshire inspired by French classics, on the whole.
Do you have a favourite time of year or set of ingredients that you look forward to working with?
My favourite times of the year are the changes of the seasons, which is when we rewrite our menus to take advantage of the newly available produce at its best, which may be a relatively short time, but that makes it all the more special. Even after the number of years I have been in the business, it still inspires me.
What is your favourite ingredient to create with?
There are hundreds. However, I do love cheese and enjoy developing concepts for cheese course savories.
What would you be doing if you weren’t a chef?
It sometimes feels like I spend a lot of time working on our buildings, from the interiors to the gardens, and enjoy creating spaces, which add to the eating experience of our diners. I appreciate that it is still in the sphere of hospitality, but at least it’s not in the kitchen!
What is your favourite dish to cook at home?
I love spending time with my extensive family and rounding up as many of my kids as I can for a good old fashioned Sunday Roast. The type where you roll off your chair from the table.
When are you happiest?
I still enjoy taking visitors around The Star Inn at Harome, even after 17 years. We are now marking a year since reopening after a major fire and that has made me appreciate the place even more, if that could be possible.
What is your favourite piece of kitchen equipment?
A very cheffy answer, I’m afraid, my knives, some of which I have had since college.
When you’re not in the kitchen where can you be found?
I am always very much involved in the restaurant front of house areas and the gardens at The Star and constantly check on everything to make sure it gives our diners the best possible experience.
What’s your favourite takeaway or comfort food?
My favourite comfort food woud be something like hot buttered crumpets or cheese on toast with Henderson’s relish in it. The perfect snack.
Where is your favourite place to dine?
The Star Inn at Harome, of course! Who wouldn’t want a Michelin-starred restaurant, where they know the food is always good, just a few strides from their front door?
What do you think is the most over-hyped food trend?
Probably food produced using molecular techniques.
How would you describe the food you create at York Minster Refectory to someone who has never experienced your kind of food?
At York Minster Refectory, our culinary approach is a celebration of tradition fused with modern flavours. Imagine dishes that pay homage to regional heritage, curated with a contemporary twist. We craft our food using locally sourced ingredients, presenting a vibrant tapestry of flavours that capture the essence of the season. Each bite tells a story, meticulously prepared to evoke a sense of comfort, yet with an innovative edge that surprises and delights.
What’s your favourite flavour combination?
Black pudding and foie gras.
What is the USP of your restaurant?
The USP of York Minster Refectory lies in its fusion of rich heritage and culinary innovation. Set against the backdrop of the stunning York Minster, our restaurant offers a dining experience that marries tradition with contemporary flair. Situated a stone’s throw from York Minster, our restaurant provides a unique and picturesque setting that blends centuries-old architecture with modern dining comfort. We take pride in crafting dishes that spotlight locally sourced ingredients, celebration the seasons through a menu that evolves with the freshest product, ensuring a unique and vibrant culinary experience.
What do your future plans entail?
No plans for the future yet, but I’m always open to new ventures that may come my way!
