Ashley Binder has been the head chef at Middlethorpe Hall since 2016, but his journey at the luxe York hotel began in 2008 when he joined the team as chef de partie before rapidly being promoted to sous chef. A passionate, experienced and talented Yorkshireman, Ashley has previously worked with Tom Van Zeller in Harrogate, however, it is at Middlethorpe Hall’s fine-dining restaurant that Ashley has excelled, being part of the award winning team that has been awarded two rosettes by the AA.
Ashley is proud to uphold the long established reputation for traditional excellence for food at Middlethorpe Hall. His long experience with the company means that he understands guests’ expectations and requirements, and his Yorkshire roots allow him to continue the hotel’s long-standing relationship with local farmers, fishmongers and butchers. He also works very closely with head gardener Andrew Leighton to make full use of the fresh herbs, fruits and vegetables organically grown in the walled garden’s ‘Potager’.
As Middlethorpe Hall celebrates its 40th anniversary since opening as a Historic House Hotel this year, we sat down with the talented chef to find out a little more about his influences, what guests can expect when dining here and how much local ingredients have an impact on the menu.
What or who inspired you to become a chef?
I loved cooking from a young age, but becoming a chef was inspired by the culinary heavyweights Marco Pierre White and Gordon Ramsay, the ‘work hard play hard’ image is what got me hooked.
Who has been your biggest influence to get you to where you are today?
To be honest my wife and children are, they are my driving force to keep going when things get tough.
What’s your signature dish?
I don’t really have one, I do lots of lovely dishes but always get asked this question so I should probably have one! If pushed, we do a cracking lobster ravioli with coconut, coriander, lime and lemongrass.
What are the most important considerations when crafting your menu?
My menus always start with seasonality, quality ingredients then flavour profiles and textures followed by test, practice and taste.
Do your personal preferences influence the menu at all?
Without a doubt yes, I don’t really cook things I don’t like to eat, having said that there aren’t many things I don’t like.
How would you describe your cooking style?
Modern British – I think this sums it up best, we live in a multicultural society so there are culinary influences everywhere I like to learn and use all of them.
Do you have a favourite time of year or set of ingredients that you look forward to working with?
I love spring because after a long winter of root vegetables it’s a breath of fresh air to get things like wild garlic which grows at the bottom of our garden, jersey royals and asparagus. We are lucky to have such great produce in this country and it’s great to use it when it’s at its best.
What is your favourite ingredient to create with?
Yorkshire forced rhubarb is one of my favourite, its local, its versatile, it is packed with flavour and it’s a beautiful colour too.
What would you be doing if you weren’t a chef?
I always wanted to be an architect, I love designing and creating things so if I was as focused as I am now when I was younger that is something I would have liked to pursue.
What is your favourite dish to cook at home?
Easy one, Sunday lunch with the family and a nice bottle of red wine.
Middlethorpe Hall features a kitchen garden, tell us about some of the produce you use regularly from this garden.
We are very lucky at Middlethorpe Hall to get lots of great produce from our gardens and grounds, one of my favourites is the apples from our orchard. We have some wonderful old English varieties.
What is your favourite piece of kitchen equipment?
I would say our induction cooking unit, it replaced the old gas stoves and allows us to cook much more efficiently and it kicks out a lot less heat on those hot and busy services.
When you’re not in the kitchen where can you be found?
When I’m not in the kitchen I like to be on the other side, eating in nice restaurants, other than that I like to let off steam with some sort of sport or exercise.
Where is your favourite place to dine?
Hard to choose a favourite, I like to eat in a wide variety of places. But I’ve recently been to Rome and ate at La Pergola, a three Michelin star restaurant at the top of the Waldorf Astoria hotel. The food is amazing and the restaurant has panoramic views of Rome, which was pretty special.
What differences do you find working with local produce as opposed to non-local produce in terms of what you can create and flavour?
Generally the less miles food has to travel to get to you, the better it is in terms of flavour and for the environment. So it is something we try our best to do, but when looking for the finest ingredients that is not always possible so we do make exceptions.
How would you describe the food you create at Middlethorpe Hall to someone who’s never experienced your kind of food?
Middlethorpe is a great place to showcase the best of fine dining, we use great seasonal produce, skill and technique to create a memorable meal. We provide top-class service in an environment that makes you feel special. It is well worth a visit.
What’s your favourite flavour combination?
There are so many! White onion, coffee and caramel is one that has stayed with me over the years. In the restaurant we do a white onion veloute with coffee powder and sherry vinegar caramel. It’s delicious.
What do your future plans entail for the restaurant at Middlethorpe Hall?
The plan is to keep creating menus that make our guests happy and return, using the best produce from our kitchen gardens and local suppliers.
Factbox
Address: Bishopthorpe Road, York YO23 2GB
Phone: 01904 641241
Website: middlethorpe.com
