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Meet the chef: Ben Orpwood, executive chef of 20 Berkeley, Mayfair in London

20 Berkeley is a new, produce-led restaurant and bar concept located in the heart of London’s upmarket Mayfair.

By Anuja Gaur   |  

Representing the epitome of epicurean indulgence and artistic cuisine since it’s inception in 2021, the ultra-luxe Creative Restaurant Group continues to thrive in their visionary crusade with a flourishing restaurant assemblage, focused on showcasing impeccable wholesome ingredients with a clean refined elegance, inside the heart of the Capital’s most palatial postcodes demonstrated within the high-brow eateries of Endo at the Rotunda, Sumi and Humo.

Joining the ritzy gourmet entourage onboard the Creative Restaurant Group’s sybaritic voyage, is the luminous dining labyrinth of 20 Berkeley, nestled in the plutocrat domain of Mayfair’s just along Berkeley Square. 

Embracing the regal embodiment and aesthetics of a quintessential stately manor, this 120-seat sanctum has already attained a flawless A1 track record by acing its  gastronomical test drives since the pedigreed genesis in the spring of 2023. With a British produce led concept expect culinary delights such as succulent, Herdwick lamb enveloped in a vibrant rich tomato fondue, glistening Orkney scallops revealing a buttery brine flesh and herbed potato salad entwined with fine flaked, Portland bill crab. 

At the helm of the table, igniting the ardent passion and imaginative flair into the restaurant’s cooking programme, is none other than executive chef Ben Orpwood. A formidable maestro in the glittering haute-cuisine domain with 20 years of experience, Ben has championed honing in on his meticulous culinary finesse, gained during his illustrious career spells including Gordon Ramsay’s swanky Asian inspired offering of Lucky Cat, not to forget the lavish Grade I members’ club haunt, Maison Estelle. 

With yours truly unashamedly wallowing in 20 Berkeley’s hedonistic cocktail hideaway of the Nipperkin Bar, I stole the opportunity to catch up with the chef maven himself to give him the third degree on his dalliance with Asian fusion, career inspirations and Mayfair’s chi-chi ‘stigma’ over an aperitif or three.

Ben Orpwood chef
Executive chef Ben Orpwood has a very impressive culinary background

Tell us a little about yourself and your extraordinary journey, to get to where you are today.

My journey has been a remarkable one, shaped by my passion for culinary arts and a relentless pursuit of excellence. Starting as a novice cook, I embarked on a journey of continuous learning, refining my skills in kitchens around the world. Through dedication and hard graft, I gradually climbed the gourmet ladder, embracing diverse cuisines and techniques. This journey led me to where I am today, a chef deeply committed to crafting the most exceptional dining experiences!

What or who inspired you to become a chef?

My inspiration to become a chef stems from the magical moments shared around food during my childhood, watching my grandmother and mother create flavours that brought joy to our family gatherings. As I grew professionally, renowned chefs like Julia Child and Marco Pierre White became my role models, showcasing the artistry and innovation that could be achieved in the culinary world.

Zuma, Sexy Fish, Lucky Cat; some prominent chapters of your culinary career were spent in the Japanese fusion world, where did the driving force behind 20 Berkeley’s rustic British menu come from?

While my journey has been shaped by various cooking influences, the driving force behind 20 Berkeley’s rustic British menu is my deep-rooted connection to local ingredients and traditions. After my experiences in Japanese fusion, I felt a strong yearning to celebrate the rich heritage of British fare and native ingredients. This led me to curate a menu that embraces the finest local produce, and reimagining traditional dishes with a contemporary and personal twist.

20 Berkeley restaurant interior
Standing proud on the corner of Berkeley Street in London’s upmarket Mayfair, 20 Berkeley is a remarkable building with the traditional essence of an English manor house. Image credit: Polly Tootal

Describe a typical day in the kitchen.

A typical day can be envisioned as an orchestrated symphony of creativity and precision. It begins with the team gathering for a briefing, discussing the day’s menu, and assigning tasks. Throughout the day, we engage in a theatrical show of chopping, sautéing, and plating, ensuring every dish meets our exacting standards. Collaboration, attention to detail, and a constant pursuit of perfection are the pillars that guide us through the day’s ambrosial journey.

Mayfair has had quite a pretentious reputation and haut monde culture, do you feel 20 Berkeley has added some old school manor elegance while still being a strong reflection of the W1 postcode?

Indeed, 20 Berkeley embodies a harmonious blend of old-school manor elegance and the refined essence of Mayfair’s W1 postcode. While paying homage to Mayfair’s illustrious history, we’ve created an environment that welcomes both the traditional and the contemporary. This fusion allows us to provide a dining experience that resonates with the sophisticated culture of the area while introducing our own innovative approach.

Do you feel Mayfair’s gastronomical scene is evolving over the years?

Absolutely, Mayfair’s gastronomical scene has undergone a fascinating evolution over the years. It has transitioned from being solely associated with traditional fine dining to embracing a more diverse and dynamic bon vivant landscape. The emergence of avant-garde notions and global influences has contributed to a vibrant tapestry of flavours, making Mayfair an indulgent destination for both classic and cutting-edge dining experiences.

Tomato Tartare
20 Berkeley is a produce-led restaurant and bar in the heart of Mayfair, designed to celebrate the most exceptional produce from around the British Isles

What would be your own personal favourite dish from the menu?

Choosing a favourite dish is akin to selecting a favourite child! But if I had to pick, the ‘Heritage Beef Wellington’ holds a special place in my heart. It beautifully encapsulates the essence of British cookery, with tender beef, flaky pastry, and a rich, savoury mushroom duxelle. This dish is a tribute to tradition while exhibiting the eloquence of our talented team.

Do you have a favourite time of the year or set of ingredients you love working with?

As a chef, every season brings a unique set of ingredients to play with, but I must admit, the bounties of autumn truly excite me. The vibrant array of root vegetables, wild mushrooms, and hearty game perfectly align with my style. This season allows me to create dishes that evoke warmth and comfort, capturing the essence of nature’s transition.

What would you highlight as your biggest achievement and most difficult challenge during your career?

One of my proudest achievements has been receiving the prestigious Chef of the Year award, recognising my dedication to culinary innovation. However, every achievement has been accompanied by exhausting trials. The most difficult yet transformative challenge was leading my team through a major kitchen renovation while also maintaining our commitment to quality. Overcoming logistical hurdles while ensuring consistency was unequivocally a testament to our resilience and teamwork.

When you are not in the kitchen, where can you be found?

When I’m not in the kitchen, you might find me exploring local food markets, seeking inspiration from nature’s bounty. I also value spending time with my family, nurturing the same sense of togetherness that sparked my chef’s journey. Additionally, I enjoy reading cookbooks, experimenting with new recipes, and staying attuned to emerging cordon bleu trends.

Cambridgeshire strawberry _ elderflower cheesecake
20 Berkeley is the latest project from Creative Restaurant Group

What would you do if you weren’t a chef?

I could envision myself as a gastronomy educator, sharing my knowledge and passion with the next generation of aspiring chefs. Alternatively, I’ve always been rather intrigued by the world of food journalism, using words to convey the intricate stories behind each piquant plate and dining encounter.

What is your ultimate dream?

My ultimate dream is to establish a culinary foundation that supports underprivileged communities by providing access to education, mentorship and opportunities. I envision a world where the transformative power of cooking and imagination can uplift individuals and create positive change. This dream combines my love for flavoursome food with a desire to make an everlasting impact on peoples lives.

Factbox

Address: 20 Berkeley St, London, W1J 8EE
Phone: 020 3327 3691
Website: 20berkeley.com

All imagery unless stated otherwise credit: Creative Restaurant Group