A chorus of “Oui, chef” floats in the air as the brigade members move like soldiers carrying out duties at their respective stations. It’s a real spectacle to watch from our seats at the chef’s counter: oven doors fly open, meat gets flipped on the open grill, pastry chefs with piping bags work on delicate desserts, and finally, plated dishes are carried to the pass for final inspection.
At the helm of this controlled chaos is head chef Benjamin Ferra y Castell. The Angers-born chef, who has traipsed the world cooking in fine dining restaurants in Monaco, New Orleans, Switzerland, and Mexico was hand-selected by chef Yannick Alléno – he with 16 Michelin stars across 17 restaurants around the globe – to join the team at his Michelin-starred seafood brasserie at the One&Only hotel in Dubai.
Ferra y Castell showed strong ambitions and a desire for exploring new cuisines and places, so it was of no surprise when Alléno asked him to lead his newest venture, Pavyllon London. “The culinary scene in Paris is great, don’t get me wrong, but in London there is more variety, with so many communities working in tandem, and this is apparent in the food scene. You can easily go and visit a Michelin-starred restaurant to experience Mexican cuisine, Thai, Indian, a fusion, or well, whatever you feel!” exclaims Ferra y Castell. “When I attended the Michelin ceremony in February 2024 – when Pavyllon London won its first star – I met so many different chefs from all around the world. International gastronomy is so well represented in this city and I love it.”
Located in the Four Seasons hotel on Park Lane, Pavyllon London welcomes guests in a lounge that features bright floor-to-ceiling windows and pops of colour via turquoise furniture. The dining room comes alive with a vivacious energy, commandeered by the central open kitchen. The Immersive Mayfair menu comes with either four or six courses, with each course celebrating classical French techniques but with the contemporary additions of British produce and inspirations the chefs have taken from their travels.
I’m not drinking, but the restaurant’s Bar Antoine had a delightful non-alcoholic cocktail called Paloma on the Beach, with everleaf marine botanicals, lime cordial, and pink grapefruit soda. Our snacks arrive and they’re all about balance – a light and fresh pea and beetroot bite is followed by a rich and sumptuous Comté and bechamel gougère.
For the first course, there’s a play on textures with delicate Obsiblue prawns that are poached and sitting on a smooth white bean puree, which I felt needed a bit more of the chorizo oil to really give it that punch of flavour. Puffed rice and bright edible flowers finished off the dish and added to the aesthetic contrast. It wouldn’t be a French restaurant without some fromage, and the next course is a beautiful celebration of the French staple. A steamed Comté souffle makes its way to our table and the mild cheese flavour is elevated with a watercress coulis monte and a surprising salty touch of eel butter!
Duck magret takes centre stage for the main course – from the Creedy Carver farms, no less – which is roasted to perfection in a moreish jus. Toasted seeds and sweet, thinly sliced daikon is draped on top, bringing a different layer of flavour to the dish. To end our meal, we opt for two different desserts, first, what the restaurant calls the ‘sweet spiced cloud’, hazelnut praline ripple ice cream with a strong coffee and cardamom sauce; and a seasonal option, strawberries a la nage – to be cooked in a broth – with verbena espuma, a punchy balsamic vinegar, and unexpected crispy nori.
Both Alléno and Ferra y Castell count their grandmothers as being their largest sources of culinary inspiration and it’s perhaps this approach that makes their food innovative but still accessible. “We work closely together and it’s great to witness first hand Chef Yannick’s inspiration – from sending me posts on Instagram, to new ideas in the culinary scene, or whatever has motivated him that day. If I create a new dish, I’ll send Chef Yannick a picture and he will share feedback. Then, we have a final tasting with the wider team one month later – it’s great to be so collaborative. He is a brilliant mentor with an expansive knowledge of the culinary landscape, especially on sauces,” says Ferra y Castell. He also mentions that he and Alléno have a shared admiration for legendary chef Auguste Escoffier, whose influence is seen in many dishes in Pavyllon London.
After our wonderful meal, I was excited to speak with Ferra y Castell about how his international stints have influenced his cooking today and what he’d serve to friends who were over for dinner.
Did you always know you wanted to be a chef?
I originally wanted to be in the military, but when I was about 15 years old, something happened that changed my direction! I’d forgotten my math book one day at school, so the teacher gave me one from the class cupboard. Inside was an advert for the local hospitality institute in my city. I saw this as a sign, especially as my whole family were foodies and my grandmother’s cooking was a great inspiration growing up. One year after I read the advert, I enrolled at the cookery school at 16 years old. I call it destiny – thank God I forgot my book!
What was it like growing up in Angers?
It’s a small city with simple, honest people. My grandmother cooked a lot and showed me the art of receiving people with food and the happiness it brought. She would cook for around 40 people when we had family gatherings. My grandfather loved taking me into the garden where I would help him to grow the vegetables and fruit – memories I’ll never forget!
You’ve worked in many different countries around the world. What were some of your biggest learnings from your stints abroad?
The human aspect of cooking is so important. Through this job I’ve met so many people who see life in a totally different manner, which has helped me grow as a person. I went to Mexico many years ago for a chef role and I discovered a ‘new’ me. I didn’t speak the language, I had no clue about the culture, and I started from zero. I had one day off a week and worked 17 hours a day minimum. It wasn’t easy but I loved working there, I actually stayed for three years! Learning from new countries and cultures is invaluable.
What is the feeling you want diners to have when they come to Pavyllon London?
I want people to feel comfortable. Pavyllon London is a stress-free environment where you can laugh, speak to me and my team around the counter, and view my kitchen as your home. I like to have fun with my guests and I believe this jovial mood helps people enjoy the food even more! Pavyllon is a neighbourhood restaurant at heart, so the ambience goes with it.
How did it feel when Pavyllon London received a Michelin star just a few months after opening?
I will never forget that moment. The ceremony was in early February and up until end of January, I hadn’t heard anything. Not even an e-mail. But on the 30th of January, I had a call announcing our invitation, which was incredibly exciting. When I was called on stage to receive the award, I was so happy for my team. It represented the effort and hard work they put in every day. Our team is persistent, full of talent and potential, and it was an incredible feeling to see this recognised.
What is your favourite item on the current menu?
Hard to say. Maybe the Surf and Turf, which is our wagyu beef millefeuille with a native lobster from Scotland finished on the barbecue, with a Choron sauce and a Japanese twist. This idea is the brainchild of chef Yannick, inspired after a barbecue with some friends.
You’re having friends over for dinner. What’s on the menu?
Big sharing plates, big glasses of wine, and importantly, big amounts of fun! I’d perhaps cook a nice cote de bœuf, a roasted lamb leg, or a salt-crusted seabass and some mussel mariniere.
When not at the restaurant, where can we find you drinking and dining?
I never like to go to the same place – there’s so much to try in this great city! I love hearing where the team has been eating, so I get a lot of recommendations from them, our wonderful guests and, of course, the Michelin Guide.
Factbox
Pavyllon London
Address: Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane, Hamilton Pl, London W1J 7DR
Phone: 020 7319 5200
Website: pavyllonlondon.com
