Paul Leonard is the head chef at The Forest Side, an idyllic retreat in the Lake District, which has been awarded a Michelin Star. He joined in 2019, coming from The Devonshire Arms in Bolton Abbey, where he had held the position of head chef since 2017. Winning four coveted AA rosettes for Burlington (the hotel’s restaurant) within the first year, Paul has long been praised for his loving and simple use of local produce. This celebration of provenance is an ethos he would carry with him to his new role.
Having previously cooked under the likes of Marcus Wareing and Andrew Fairlie, Paul Leonard’s Michelin experience also includes retaining a star at The Isle of Eriska on the west coast of Scotland – a great achievement given that it was his first role as head chef.
At The Forest Side, alongside highly experienced general manager Alasdair Elwick, he has helped create a warm, positive and family feel to both the kitchen and wider hotel. A feeling which is reflected in the beautifully executed food, created from locally sourced produce and the rich biodiversity of the local area.
We caught up with the Michelin-awarded chef to hear about his season-focused cooking, his love of Indian food and where you’ll find him on days off.
Who has been your biggest influence to get you to where you are today?
My parents my and wife, they have given me the drive and support. My parents certainly gave me the work ethic which I believe is needed to succeed in any business.
What’s your signature dish?
I don’t really have a signature dish as we change the menu so often. I do love a barbecue lobster dish we do with a sauce made from their heads and finished with smoked butter.
What are the most important considerations when crafting your menu?
The seasons really influence what we do at Forest Side, we are lucky to have a large growing operation which dictates our menu. Also the close relationships we have forged with suppliers. We are always going to cook to the seasons and use the best and freshest ingredients available to us. We just have the easy part which is bringing it all together using the techniques we have learnt over the years.
Do your personal preferences influence the menu at all?
100 per cent, you’ve got to believe in your food and enjoy eating it as much as cooking it, so my personal preference will always shine through on the menu.
How would you describe your cooking style?
Simple, classical undertones, British, seasonal, bloody tasty.
Do you have a favourite time of year or set of ingredients that you look forward to working with?
When the game season comes around I get super excited. We still have produce coming from the garden which we pair with the main proteins of dishes but, for me, it’s the actual prep and cooking of game birds, deer etc. I think it’s an awesome skill set to have.
What is your favourite ingredient to create with?
As well as game I love shellfish, most probably stemming from my time in Scotland, once again the prep and cooking really make me happy. Also making sauces, I love making sauces, shellfish and game sauces especially.
What would you be doing if you weren’t a chef?
Absolutely no idea, I use to play in a band so maybe could have dedicated some more time to that!
What is your favourite dish to cook at home?
Curry, during lockdown while everyone else was making sourdough I made it my goal to learn the art of the Indian takeaway curry. I pretty much learnt every curry available on our local curry house’s menu and now I love cooking these on days off. As well as the naans and sides. Its awesome.
When are you happiest?
Out walking the fells with my wife, daughter and two dogs. I adore cooking but sometimes the chance to spend time with family is just perfect. I really appreciate the time I have with the family.
What is your favourite piece of kitchen equipment?
My Tog Chefs knife, it’s a class bit of kit. A timer is bloody important too.
When you’re not in the kitchen where can you be found?
Spending time with the family, walking the dogs.
What’s your favourite takeaway or comfort food?
A good Indian curry, as mentioned before, is good for me.
Where is your favourite place to dine?
I love going to Erst in Manchester, I would say at the moment that is up there. Alongside Joro in Sheffield and The Angel at Hetton
What differences do you find working with local produce as opposed to non-local produce in terms of what you can create and flavour?
When using local produce you really get the chance to build a relationship with the local farmers and growers. I know it sounds silly but I believe you can taste the love and effort they have put in to producing the produce. It makes you work super seasonal which can only be a good thing.
How do you go about menu planning? What’s the process from picking the ingredients to getting them fresh into the kitchen and into dishes?
I start by using the seasons and what produce is at its prime at a certain time of year. I tend to use the previous year’s dishes as reference points. Sometimes they stay very similar and sometimes they completely change, it’s all dependant on what’s growing in our garden and what’s available to us that year. All of our cooking has pretty classical undertones so that’s the starting point, find the ingredient and decide how we are going to cook it, then make a banging sauce to finish it.
Factbox
Address: Keswick Road, Grasmere, Ambleside LA22 9RN
Phone: 015394 35250
Website: theforestside.com
