The era of the saporous rainbow crystal sushi phenomenon has refused to show any signs of relent. Spinning its culinary sorcery on the nation’s sybaritic tastebuds, which have been captivated by this theatrical gourmet creation, the concept first made its trailblazing debut in 2015 within the contemporary Japanese dining sanctum of Shiro in Hong Kong, before cementing its standing on the menu at its London sibling, in the slick high-rise harbour of Liverpool Street.
Snugly nestled amongst a legion of chic cocktail hideaways and dapper eateries in Broadgate Circle, a mere minor minutes from Liverpool Street station, this urban East-Asian entrant unearths an understated, yet polished ambience. Expect pristine cream and gleaming pine wooden tones, giving way to the chef-d’œuvre of a clean edged sushi counter, set to pave the open kitchen stage for an assembly of riveting cooking performances.
With the crystal sushi menu showcasing an epicurean display of meticulously cut sushi rolls draped in a multi-hued array of smooth luminous jelly creations, discerning diners are invited to savour and satiate their appetites on this flavoursome East-Asian sushi repast. Embrace tender buttery scallop with an umami hinted kimchi jelly coating, or maybe silken tender fatty salmon cocooned with a gleaming refreshing sweetened mint and sake crystal glaze, all encouraged to relish without the common soy sauce condiment, alongside a plethora of delectable affairs of golden crisp rock shrimp tempura, and rich melt-in-the-mouth wagyu beef skewers.
Raymond Ma, the innovator behind crystal sushi, is incessantly heralded for his scrupulous culinary artistry and visionary chef brilliance, first illustrated during his premiere cooking voyage at the award-winning destination of Wasabisabi back in 2017 which set in motion his prestigious ranking with the Aqua Group.
In 2008, Raymond transitioned to Shiro Hong Kong, which earned him the opportunity to develop his cookery mastery. His exacting acumen and appetite for innovation led him to become an essential player in the London Aqua Kyoto opening team, and he continues to flawlessly prosper in the Aqua collection. The collection boasts a glitterati gastronomical catalogue of 16 glamorous restaurants and cocktail shelters around the sphere, from the lofty bon-vivant utopia of our capital’s Aqua Shard, to the vibrant Pan-Northern Chinese destination of Hutong in Miami.
In 2019, Raymond returned to his roots at Shiro Hong Kong, as head chef, liaising with the team at Shiro London to ensure brand alignment across the two locations.
It was nothing but an indulgent treat and honour to have the opportunity of Raymond Ma’s VIP company during his London drop-in, as I luxuriated in an icy chilled, dainty floral lychee martini and mouth-watering banquet while unashamedly interrogating him on nostalgic food memoirs, dream career aspirations and, of course, that Crystal Sushi eureka moment!
Tell us a little about yourself.
Well, what can I say?! My name is Raymond Ma, I’ve been working as a sushi chef for close to solid 20 years of my life, I take pride in my position as the head sushi chef in Shiro Hong Kong, all while trying to survive and thrive with the Aqua Restaurant Group; and I love every moment of it!
You’ve certainly been quite the culinary jet-setter, from the pulsating culture Haven of Hong Kong to the global gourmet hub of our London Capital! Do you tend to find yourself adapting your cooking styles to the country’s native tastebuds?
Oh absolutely, and believe me it is certainly not the easiest of missions trying to adapt and work around the Asian palate. Their taste buds and likings are very different to the European crowd, more so the people of Hong Kong to be honest. In Hong Kong, the majority tend to largely be pretty health and fitness conscious with diets focused around minimal salt, low sugar, and and cutting back on cholesterol, so definitely no crispy duck or sweet and sour chicken on their daily menus!
From what I’ve seen myself, in London people aren’t overly finicky in that respect, although I have to say there’s definitely been a surge in dietary restrictions i.e. gluten free, vegan preferences etc while trying to keep everything flavourful! The sauces for the UK appetites are definitely more intense, I can get away with a more spicy and seasoned profile than I do in Hong Kong.
What, or who, would you say, were your master influencers that led you into your gastronomical career?
So many in my life, I’d find it difficult to list them all! Not one of them ever held back in giving me a hard time when I started as a commis chef that’s for sure, but in all seriousness, I really appreciate and value their guidance and advice, which has played a big role in shaping me to into the person and chef I am now.
You have literally been tagged as ‘the innovator behind crystal sushi’. Where did the visionary driving force come about for you to create this work of art recipe?
Hmmm, I’m pretty sure my son will demand his credit and royalties on this when he’s older! The whole ‘brainwave’ pretty much started when we were asked by our owner to let loose our creative and innovative brain, for a fresh sushi concept through an internal competition.
I have to be brutally honest I felt borderline helpless that this would be mission impossible, then suddenly I saw my son tucking into a jelly with a slightly different flavour than the usual classics. The thought had just suddenly dawned on me and popped into my mind, that why not infuse the savoury Japanese flavours, herbs and sauces into the colourful rainbow jelly mixes, with of course sprinkles of seasoning, dallops and sake and caviar and, of course, some delicate colourful edible flower petals for those Instagrammable snaps, so diners enjoy the flavours without submerging it in soy sauce and, thus, crystal sushi was born!
Describe a typical day in the kitchen.
Haha! No day ever feels like the same typical day for me, but usually the standard routine involves a lot of shouting, laughing, and, of course, plenty of cooking while trying to think up ingenious fresh menu ideas!
Do you have some special childhood food memories that particularly stand out?
I do indeed; my mum’s special fried rice. Rice plays a big part in our culture and household, it’s pretty amazing how you can be so adventurous in turning something so plain and simple, into such delicious and versatile recipes you’d find in luxury Michelin restaurants, and your ever faithful takeaway den.
The Aqua Group represents some of the most glamourous haute cuisine eateries in the realm of luxe Asian dining, how does it feel being part of such an iconic epicurean empire?
I am beyond ecstatic and proud of this gastronomical domain, especially given that I’ve had the privilege of seeing the owner, David Yeo, practically build this empire one by one and witness it flourishing beautifully. I gladly took the golden opportunity of playing a part to join the opening team of Aqua Kyoto in London, which truly was a wonderful experience and I really look forward to seeing what more the group has to offer.
Crystal Sushi aside, are there any other dishes from the menu you’d personally recommend?
I never hesitate in recommending the matcha soba noodles; delicious, light and perfect for vegetarians while the black cod robota is also definitely a standout; buttery fish that melts in the mouth with that famous sweet/sour marinade, however you absolutely can’t leave without sampling our famous fresh Edomae!
When you are not in the kitchen, where can you be found?
Restaurants, I love getting the chance to try out dishes I’ve not tasted or cooked before. There’s always an occasion to come across something new and, unsurprisingly, I do love my food!
What would you do if you weren’t a chef?
I would most probably be a construction mechanic, or a technician maintenance is definitely in the top list.
What is your ultimate dream?
Like what many chefs dream… to be a Michelin chef one day.
Finally, any words of wisdom you could share for those aspiring young chefs in the making?
Keep trusting yourself, keep the career and job passion alive and never, ever, forget to stay confident with your work and who you are.
Factbox
Address: Unit G04, 100 Liverpool Street, Broadgate Circle, London, EC2M 2QS
Telephone: 0203 011 3231
Website: aquarestaurantgroup.com
