Walking through the glass doors into an unsuspecting, thoroughly modern wine shop with white washed walls, it was no surprise that we had managed to miss the concealed entrance to the latest M restaurant on Victoria Street. Questioning our reservation, we were immediately directed downstairs to something that was more than to be expected. The interiors are sexy, with a chain curtain and dark finishings we are seated in the bar with champagne to start. On a tour of this new and growing hotspot we are shown a hidden members club that can be found behind the bar and a glamorous private dining room at the other end. The menu is divided into two parts: raw and grill with the layout of M Victoria a reflection of this.
Away from the bar, the raw dining area follows into a lavish private dining room at the end. On the evening it was deserted and I suspect may be used as more of an overflow or midday spot than anything else. In comparison I can see why the main dining room is first to be filled on the evening. An elegant oval shaped room, we’re told it is designed to always feel busier than is may be. Seated in a huge booth, big enough I’d say to comfortably seat six, we ordered cocktails and studied the raw menu which we had selected on booking.
Its concept of being fast, casual and healthy is a clever idea for us time poor, wellness conscious Londoners. Although casual I wasn’t so sure about, within the polished surroundings and impeccable presentation. Small plates designed for sharing, listed is Tuna sushi, Kangaroo tartare or curried trout. The salmon sashimi was flawless and red curried prawns were generous and meaty. Dorset oysters were recommended to us over the Jersey ones and didn’t stay around long. Onto their ‘hot’ selections which slightly baffled me as I was led to believe it to be a raw menu, this included sticky pork bao, a good choice although in competition with its soft shell crab competitor. With the knowledge that this new opening has the highest grade of Kobe and wagu beef available anywhere in London, the hot stone options are not one to give a miss. Thankfully the wagu beef tasted as expected with its £30 price tag. The yellow in tuna was equally pleasing; although one to keep a close eye on unless you prefer anything more so than lightly seared.
Showcasing their exceptional grades of meat and a real showstopper, a brightly lit, glass window parades impressive cuts of all sizes; hanging in prime eye line. This leads me onto their grill: a plush menu that features some of the finest cuts from around the globe, from six carefully selected counties, ranging from £18-£150. Some include T-bone to share, rump from Argentina, Normandy striploin, spiral cut striploin from Botswana and, of course, Blackmore wagu; shipped all the way from Australia. With these, lavish and decadent toppings such as half a lobster, fried duck egg, foie gras or black truffle.
M Victoria Street is a subtle and sophisticated new opening to frequent the partly disjointed mishmash of Victoria, and it covers all bases. Book yourself in for drinks (the champagne is great and cocktails a treat for someone you’re looking to impress). The raw menu caters more so for speedy lunch timers with the grill the definite spectacle within the oval shaped dining room. Not only that, the glamour is also dished up in the form of brunches.. Roka watch out!
Address: 3 Zig Zag Building, 70 Victoria St, London SW1E 6SQ, 020 3327 7776, mrestaurants.co.uk/Victoria
