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Restaurant Review: Akira Back London at The Mandarin Oriental, Mayfair in London

Earlier this year London welcomed the debut opening from iconic chef Akira Back. Famous for fusing Korean and Japanese cuisine, LLM writer Georgie Bentley-Buckle took at seat at the new restaurant situated at The Mandarin Oriental in Mayfair.

By Georgie Bentley-Buckle   |  

In June, London’s esteemed portfolio of restaurants welcomed the debut of world-renowned Akira Back to Mayfair’s Mandarin Oriental. With the restaurant named after the chef himself, alongside a cocktail bar, plus a signature Michelin-starred chef’s table concept – Akira Back London is the latest from the restaurant group which has 28 outposts across the globe’s most glamourous locales; from Las Vegas to Dubai, Paris and Beverly Hills.

One Sunday afternoon I stepped through the revolving doors of the five-star hotel on Hanover Square to sample Akira Back London’s fine-dining Asian food from the internationally acclaimed chef born in Korea and raised in Aspen. The Mandarin Oriental illustrate that his menus introduce a sense of adventure and boundless creativity to his culinary creations, notably fusing Japanese and Korean flavours and cooking methods, for creative dishes with innovative ideas.

Akira Back chef
In June, London’s esteemed portfolio of restaurants welcomed the debut of world-renowned Akira Back to Mayfair’s Mandarin Oriental

I sampled dishes that showcase Akira’s Korean heritage with his contemporary interpretations from Japan, further influenced by his global travels (this included previously being a pro snowboarder). Seated in a booth in the centre of the contemporary 148 seated dining space, the space Akira Back London consumes is flooded with natural light thanks to the triple-height sky roof. This is accompanied by a large marble spiral staircase for a smart set-up for visitors and hotel residents alike.  

Akira Back London’s menu doesn’t hold back when it comes to plating showstopping, international favourites that the brand has become known for. Our waitress particularly recommends one of the creative chef’s ‘greatest hits’, aka the AB tuna pizza; consisting of a wafer-thin crunchy crust, umami aioli made with ponzu sauce, tuna sashimi, micro shiso and drizzled in white truffle oil. This was an innovative way to enjoy tuna sashimi, inspired ultimately by the Italians too.

Other iconic dishes of the Akira Back brand include the ‘Jeju Domi’, sea bream with tobiko and chojang and the perfect storm. This is known as the ultimate sushi roll and features a combination of spicy tuna, prawn tempura, trout belly aburi and chipotle mayonnaise.

Akira Back food
Akira Back London’s menu doesn’t hold back when it comes to plating showstopping, international favourites that the brand has become known for

There are some exciting newcomers exclusive to the London location too. With pickled shimeji and micro coriander is the dynamite lobster, or turbot served with white asparagus and sake beurre blanc and Highland Wagyu striploin with a yuzu kosho jus. Each of these dishes reflects locally sourced ingredients, interpreted and finished in Akira Back’s cool, creative style. 

Celebrating his first foray here in the UK (and ensuring he makes an impact in the already saturated London dining landscape) – Akira and his culinary team have also launched their lavish Michelin concept aka ‘Dosa’ at their new English home at The Mandarin Oriental. This concept offers a theatrical eating experience which takes diners on a journey of contemporary Korean seasonal dishes, whilst sat at an intimate 14-seater counter-style ‘Chef’s Table’. Translating as ‘master’ or ‘expert’ in Korean, the menu here is inspired by the changing four seasons, with of course wine pairings and showmanship for good measure. 

Akira Back restaurant interior
Akira Back and his culinary team have launched their lavish Michelin concept aka ‘Dosa’ at their new English home at The Mandarin Oriental

Akira has assigned executive chef Jihun Kim to oversee his London debut, and specifically his Michelin chef’s table. Also originating from Korea, Jihun was a part of the very first Dosa restaurant in Seoul and also helped with Akira Back restaurant openings in Dubai and Paris.

Akira and Jihun share the same vision to create a new style of creative fine-dining, uniting Japanese and Korean cuisine as one. At Akira Back London, this can be enjoyed in the restaurant plus in one of three private dining rooms. These exclusive spaces provide an intimate dining experience to enjoy first-hand this unique style from the restaurant group that unites Japan so elegantly with Korea.

Factbox

Address: 22 Hanover Square, London W1S 1JP
Phone: 020 7889 8888
Website: mandarinoriental.com/en/london/mayfair/dine/akira-back