Words by Melissa Richter
When thinking about fine dining at the highest level, Côte by Mauro Colagreco has been at the top of Bangkok food connoisseurs’ lists since it opened in 2020. They are the epitome of globally inspired Michelin-star dining and have firmly established themselves as a favorite haunt for the highest echelons of society, including celebrities, members of the royal family, and a bevy of international dignitaries and VIPs.
Located in the exquisite Capella Bangkok hotel, Côte beckons guests into an intimate yet light-drenched dining room with warm yet neutral blue and grey interiors that offer scenic views of the bustling Chao Phraya River. Their award-winning degustation menus are available for both lunch and dinner and feature contemporary interpretations of the traditional recipes of the Mediterranean found along the French and Italian Riviera, from Nice to Genoa.
The devil is in the details at Côte, and this is subtly expressed in the bespoke ceramic dinnerware that chef Mauro Colagreco commissioned for the restaurant. Each plate and bowl is a work of art that a local Thai artisan created by hand in the Northern Providences. They brilliantly elevate the presentation of the food while also enhancing the enjoyment of each guest. Additionally impressive is the stealthy and professional waitstaff brigade, who effortlessly tend to every whim, from pouring wine and refilling water glasses to brushing crumbs from the table and serving each dish with co-ordinated precision and professionalism.
On my visit, I opted for the nine-course “Carte Blanche” menu with wine pairing. There is no printed menu, which only enhances the allure. I was initially treated to a trio of delectable bites, which included a salted cod croquette with onion cavier, as well as a delightful beetroot macaron and the chef’s innovative take on “bread and butter”.
The first course of hamachi tartare with caviar and raw red papaya is an ingenious offering that intriguingly highlights the fish, while the caviar deftly enhances the experience. The langosteens with mushrooms is yet another match made in heaven with its delicate interplay of the best on offer from both the land and sea.
Perhaps my favourite dish was the lamb saddle with Swiss chard, artichokes and lavender. This dish is so visually pleasing that you almost don’t want to eat it. The succulent lamb is cooked to perfection with a rich and decadent fat cap that balances the lean yet juicy meat and gives it a rich and luxurious finish. Devoid of any of the gaminess that so often accompanies lamb, it is an ostentatious dish that is other-worldly and can only be described as perfection on a plate.
No meal would be complete without a decadent dessert, and the clementine grainte with banana and earl grey tvea ice cream was a seductive way to end the meal.
As if all this was not enough, I was treated to an impromptu fireworks display along the river on the night of my visit. Colourful lights streamed through the massive plate glass windows that bathed the dining room in a magical hue long after the light show had subsided. Côte is unequivocally what special occasions are made for. They never fail to deliver an exceptional dining experience of masterful cuisine and impeccable service in an upscale yet comfortable atmosphere where you can experience gourmet Michelin-star dining at its best.
Factbox
Address: 300/2 Charoen Krung Road, Yan Nawa, Sathon, Bangkok 10120, Thailand
Phone: +66 2 098 3888
Website: cotebkk.com
All imagery credit: Côte by Mauro Colagreco
