Words by Paul Martin
It’s approaching 5.00pm on what has been a chilly November afternoon. Making our way past the crowds opposite Fortnum and Masons, we take a sharp right into Swallow Street, where there is an instant change into an ambiance of calm and quiet.
On the left hand side, amongst the three story terraced brick buildings, a blackboard sitting on the pavement advertises “ oyster happy hour,” and when we spot the FishWorks Fishmonger and Restaurant sign, I instantly know we’re in the right place.
The Swallow Street iteration of the famous FishWorks seafood group has recently undergone an impressive refurbishment, which has transformed the space with a blend of contemporary elegance and nautical charm. So naturally, when the opportunity arose to go and see it for myself and enjoy a taste of the ocean from its menu of fresh, locally-sourced seafood from around the UK – I knew I was in for a treat.
And suffice it to say, it certainly didn’t disappoint.
Swallow Street is a small street in the West End of London, running north from Piccadilly to Regent Street, placing the restaurant in a prime location for Central London footfall – although many diners come from much further afield thanks to its glowing reputation.
Setting foot inside, I was met with an aesthetic comprising warm dark colours, soft lighting set at a level where you can comfortably read the menu, and a well considered table layout, all of which combine to create a setting of comfort and informality.
The seating arrangements are such that once sitting down, you feel part of a crowd, but nevertheless tables are still set far enough to allow for private conversations – a fine balance that can be difficult to strike, but that FishWorks Swallow Street has got spot on.
The fishmonger’s counter and oyster bar – newly added during the refurbishment – takes centre stage, and there are high stools where you can perch whilst indulging in some oysters and champagne, read a book with a glass of wine in hand or, if you’re feeling sociable, chat with the fishmonger. There’s a plentiful and decorative display of crustaceans and the catch of the day selections that you can peruse and choose from, too – but you don’t have to be “doing dinner” to enjoy Fishworks’ version of hospitality, and casual visitors seeking a drink and a light bite are just as welcome as those going all in.
The kitchen is situated just adjacent, and is on show to all the diners, adding an extra layer of entertainment to the Fishworks’ experience. The chefs and fishmonger never stop working, but nobody appears to be in a hurry. The waiting staff appear influenced by this, but in a positive way – everything is cool, calm and collected, putting me instantly at ease. I like to linger over dinner, and this is exactly what I, along with the other diners, am encouraged to do.
This evening, I’m dining with my daughter and 15-year-old grandson – and there’s something for everyone. For starters, the dishes we choose are all really fresh and exude bold flavours. The sautéed king scallops are cooked with white wine and garlic butter, topped with breadcrumbs and Pernod, while the wild prawns are pan fried in chilli, ginger, white wine and garlic, and served with a fennel and mint salad – perfect with a crisp glass of white. The devilled whitebait packs a spicy punch, with a coating of cayenne pepper and chilli and is served with rouille – a thick, spicy, mayonnaise-like sauce – while our final pick, the tuna carpaccio, is a fusion of flavours with chilli, ginger, mango and soy sauce.
If you’re after something else, then other options include the more traditional moules marinière and the kitchen’s own fish soup.
The mains follow a similar pattern, mixing traditional dishes along with enticing variations of plates or platters of mackerel, sea bass, tuna and crustaceans. For the more traditionally minded, or the older diner, fruits de mer, bouillabaisse and the ubiquitous cod and chips are all on offer. Those with “foodie sensitivities” can always upgrade from the traditional cod to halibut.
Fishworks are proud of their catch of the day, and rightly so. Our seas provide numerous seasonal offerings and the menu celebrates them in all their glory. We are tempted, at the table, with an enticing display of monkfish and turbot, but instead, we choose scallops covered in a warm autumnal coat of truffle butter and crunchy breadcrumb, a truly delicious fish soup, grilled lobster with garlic butter baked sea bream, and a hot grilled dover sole and, although the portions are more than adequate, we also opt for a side of new potatoes.
The dishes are light and flavourful, and afterwards we can’t help but be tempted by dessert.
I go for the midwinter seasonal crumble which floats in a pool of luxurious crème anglaise, with the rich vanilla complimenting the cinnamon scented mix of fruit and smelling and tasting of Christmas eve. Delicious!
Throughout the meal, there is a comprehensive selection of wines on the menu that can be ordered by the glass or half litre carafe – perfect if you’re enjoying a working lunch and can’t exactly polish off a whole bottle.
All diners have their own preferences, and given that our meal is centred around fish and seafood, ours is French, and white – although we notice that many of tonight’s diners are happy to choose from one of the many mouth-watering reds on offer. Nevertheless, our pick, a Sancerre, is the perfect choice to accompany the array of delicious dishes, and combined with the relaxed and friendly service and stylish new surroundings, I’m thoroughly impressed with my experience at the newly refurbished Fishworks Swallow Street.
We’re living in a changing world where responsible drinking and sustainable eating is a new mantra, especially amongst the young, and Fishworks, it seems, is ticking all the boxes and more.
When the time comes to leave and head home, having lingered for a lengthy three hours enjoying beautifully cooked food, relaxed conversation and great service, we do so with full stomachs and with a thoroughly memorable evening under our belts, for all the right reasons. And it seems that the staff all enjoyed the evening as much as we did, as they still have the same smiles on their faces and friendly demeanours as they did when we arrived, unfazed by a busy evening’s dinner service.
Factbox
Address: 7-9 Swallow St, London W1S 3DE
Phone: 020 7734 5813
Website: fishworks.co.uk
All imagery credit: FishWorks
