There’s no doubt that the stunning five-star Bovey Castle hotel, standing proudly among 275 acres of rolling Dartmoor hills, is a heavenly sanctuary for luxury-seeking families and couples. And while there’s an abundance of activities to partake in and facilities to utilise during a stay here, for three years something has been missing from the equation. Until now.
The hotel’s main restaurant, Great Western Grill is once again open after its lengthy hiatus, and boasts a brand-new £1.7 million kitchen where magnificent meals are produced using an assortment of great flavours and ingredients, including local produce that regular visitors here will know and love. Expect to see the likes of venison from the estate grounds finding its way onto hearty dishes, while gins and rums made in Dartmoor National Park are available to sip in cool cocktails or on their own in the Oak Bar.
In addition to an updated kitchen, there’s a new pair of wine rooms – one for reds and another for whites and sparkling wines for connoisseurs to pick their own bottles. I’m told that possible wine tastings will come in the future, making these spaces the perfect spot to sample some of the restaurant’s carefully chosen wines. New restrooms for restaurant guests can also be found in this updated part of the building alongside some sumptuously decorated private dining rooms.
The Great Western Grill retains its Art Deco, rich purple and silver-toned décor, and the large, open plan space is the ideal place to enjoy bountiful breakfasts, hearty Sunday lunches, elegant afternoon teas and delightful dinners, whether you’re enjoying a celebration or simply fancy some upscale cuisine during your stay.
This fine dining offering and main dining spot is complemented by Smith’s Brasserie at the other end of the hotel. After a delicious venison ragu in the cool brasserie for lunch I enjoyed the hotel amenities before readying myself in my spacious suite for an evening in this newly-opened gem.
Dinner at the Great Western Grill
In my opinion, a good meal always begins in the bar, and whether you fancy a wine, beer, cocktail, or mocktail as I sampled on this evening, Bovey Castle’s wood-panelled Oak Bar is the place to be. After sipping on a deliciously sweet virgin mojito and a glass of Bollinger for my dining partner, we headed to the opulent dining room to peruse the menus.
Expect to find a splendid selection of dishes to choose from, with a young person’s menu and vegan and vegetarian options, as well as a separate Sunday lunch and afternoon tea menu for those occasions. From speciality dishes like 30g of Exmoor Imperial Oscietra caviar, to favourites like duck liver parfait elevated with cocoa, pickled mushrooms and aged sherry duck fat brioche, to lobster and truffle macaroni cheese, to steaks, grills and house specials, there’s plenty to indulge in.
We made our choices and tucked into some complimentary little choux bites which had a creamy cheese inner and a light dusting of truffle on top. We also devoured a lovely selection of freshly baked breads, which included a white finger loaf, soda bread slice and brown roll with a herb and sea salt butter, and were served our bottle of 2021 Bourgogne Pinot Noir, which was silky smooth, medium bodied and easy to drink, too.
We didn’t have to wait long for our starters to arrive, and my dressed Brixham crab salad with green apple, avocado and caper berries looked divine. A good sized portion of white crab meat (with one tiny piece of shell) sat atop thinly sliced apple rounds – the perfect pairing – while a cool avocado mousse/ice cream, caper berries slices and a little egg finished the dish. I’m not sure the egg was needed, but I love an egg nonetheless.
The other starter for the table was a mammoth six Porthilly rock oysters, which was served with a Cabernet Sauvignon shallot vinegar. They were the biggest oysters I’ve ever seen and made for an indulgent first course.
Next up was my fillet of beef dish, which was glorious. I chose well with the chervil and tarragon bearnaise sauce – it was creamy and thick and the perfect choice of sauce for me. I opted for a side of tarragon carrots in addition to the triple cooked sea salt chips, which were a delight; small Jail Ale onion rings, which were as crisp as could be; and crunchy iced gem, which was drizzled with a tasty dressing. The 30-day dry aged 225g Prime fillet steak was perfectly cooked, well rested and free of any fat. A chunky, delicious piece of meat and a truly winning dish.
The peppered loin and faggot of Bovey Estate venison with red leaves and blueberries was thoroughly enjoyed as well and I was told that it was a perfect autumnal dish with dark, rich and sweet elements to savour. Great care has clearly been taken with each element on every dish and the presentation is top notch.
Expect great service as well, with our waiter, Bailey, being attentive, friendly and topping up wine and water when needed. There’s also a leisurely and relaxed atmosphere in the dining room and good spacing between courses. The only thing that was missing, for me, was that I would have liked an explanation of what was in each dish when it was served.
It was soon time to end the meal on a high with a delectable dessert, and my English strawberry souffle certainly hit the spot. Served with Madagascan vanilla ice cream, this delicate and fluffy dessert, dusted with icing sugar, was perfect.
The cheese selection looked divine, too, and included a selection of British and French cheeses, such a Devon Blue from Totnes, Lancashire bomb and a French soft cheese with accompaniments for each including truffle honey, a date, figs, red grapes and Eccles cake.
After a cappuccino and petit fours it was time to retire to the beautiful suite we had booked for the night.
Stay a little longer
When journeying to Bovey Castle to indulge in a winning meal at the Great Western Grill, it would be remiss not to stay a while and enjoy some of the stunning surroundings and facilities that the luxurious hotel has to offer.
With 60 individually decorated rooms and suites to reside in alongside 22 self-catering, three-bedroom lodges, you’re spoilt for choice. On this occasion I stayed in the top tier grand state suite, which boasted a large lounge, separate bedroom, spacious bathroom with a roll top bath and separate walk-in shower, and panoramic views of the surrounding valley.
The grand hotel has plenty on offer to keep guests entertained on site and, since my last visit just over a year ago, has created a dedicated wellness room with yoga classes to book and a large TV for online classes. In addition to this there’s a building solely for younger guests to while away the hours, with a fun-filled space downstairs perfect for children up to age five or six and a gaming room upstairs, which is ideal for older kids.
On site guests will find the Elan Spa, a gym, lower ground pool, the 18-hole championship golf course, various private dining rooms and gloriously decorated public rooms to make use of. In addition to this there are plenty of exciting activities to keep the whole family entertained during a stay including the daily falconry display, a Deer Park walking tour, beekeeping experience, archery, Bovey bushcraft, and the 4×4 off road driving experience, which comes highly recommended from me.
In a nutshell
Delightful dining, morning noon and night, can be experienced at the recently reopened Great Western Grill, where local ingredients shine and memorable meals are the order of the day.
Factbox
Address: Dartmoor National Park, North Bovey TQ13 8RE
Tel: 01647 445000
Website: boveycastle.com
See snippets of my travels on Instagram @tashheard_food_travel
All food imagery provided by Bovey Castle. Hotel imagery credit Natasha Heard
