Restaurant Review: Keens Steakhouse, New York in the USA

Words by Tamsin Hunter

Steps from New York’s bustling 6^th Avenue, Macy’s and the magnificent views of the Empire State Building is Keens Steakhouse; an institution for the city’s meat-loving elite. Transporting guests to the glamour of mid-century New York, the low-lit, Art Deco-inspired building is a time capsule for days gone by.

A sense of prestige is embodied in the historic dining room of this thriving establishment, renowned for its influential clientele and carnivorous menu. Dark chestnut wood surrounds the interior with rich red velvet curtains framing the windows. This comes to life with sparkling martinis glasses and immaculately dressed waiters in pressed tailcoats and the sound of raucous laughter.

Keens Steakhouse restaurant interior — Steps away from New York’s bustling 6^th Avenue, Macy’s and the magnificent views of the Empire State Building is Keens Steakhouse

After our host introduced himself and took our jackets, we were invited to marvel at the world’s largest collection of churchwarden pipes, elegantly displayed in a vintage cabinet in the vast lobby. Also hanging from the ceiling whilst you dine, our host explained the tradition of ‘checking one’s pipe’ which has origins back to the 17th century in Old England where travellers kept their pipe at their favourite inn (as the thin stemmed pipe was too fragile to be carried in a purse or saddlebag).

Prior to 1885, Keens was part of the ‘Lambs Club’, a notorious theatre group founded in London. In 1885 Keens Chophouse opened independently under the ownership of Albert Keen, by then a noted figure in the Herald Square Theatre District. Keens soon became the lively and accepted rendezvous of the distinguished stars of the time. Actors in full stage make-up and glitzy costume hurried through the rear door to ‘fortify’ themselves between acts at the neighbouring Garrick Theatre.

By the time Keens celebrated its 20th anniversary, you could glance into the Pipe Room and see the jovial congregations of producers, playwrights, publishers, and journalists who frequented it. It was, and still is, a place to ‘see and be seen’.

Food at Keens Steakhouse — The iconic restaurant has become a favourite amongst the Manhattan finance troupe and the art crowds alike, eager to devour the famous mutton chop

The iconic club has since become a favourite amongst the Manhattan finance troupe and the art crowds alike, eager to devour the famous mutton chop (in honour of the restaurant’s former name) and chef William Rodgers’ take on classic dishes and prime meat cuts.

The distinguished all-American, dimly-lit bar calls to the diners eagerly awaiting their tables, with plush bar stools reminiscent of centuries past and handsomely dressed mixologists whipping up staples such as the classic ‘Old Fashioned’, ‘Manhattan’ and ‘Spiced Sidecar’. It’s hard not to be drawn into the nostalgic lounge and want to immerse yourself in the splendour and opulence of the décor.

Starting with a classic cocktail and a selection of East Coast oysters to whet our palates, we were then taken into the main dining room. Deep-panelled walls, gilded gold framed traditional oil paintings and crisp white tablecloths all contribute to the distinguished and epochal charisma of the restaurant.

bar at Keens Steakhouse — The distinguished all-American, dimly-lit bar calls to the diners eagerly awaiting their tables, with plush bar stools reminiscent of centuries past

The wine list is extensive and indulgent, much like the prime cuts of beef and lamb on offer. The aroma of charcoaled meats and burnt cinnamon amidst the sound of popping corks and Aretha Franklin playing from a ’60s turntable immerses your senses on every level.

The food is wholesome, yet finely executed, authoritative and decedent. For seafood, diners can select their chosen lobster from the tank, whilst the seafood tower piles high Atlantic oysters, Cherrystone clams, Maine lobster and Royal Red shrimp. This does not disappoint in being both refreshing and satisfying.

The famed mutton chop is butter soft whilst the enormous choice of cuts of beef is enviable, with primed porterhouse and king’s cut both winning in the depth of flavour with liberal-sized portions. Each comes with a potential wine pairing and a thoughtfully explained recommendation on how to cook for the best flavour experience.

The side dishes of organic carrots in brown butter, pan-roasted purple sprouting broccoli and the acclaimed Keens creamed spinach pair delightfully with the tender meat. Keens Red Berry Bibble made for a sharp but sweet ending to an extravagant and unforgettable evening of dining at this iconic steakhouse.