Words by Susan Springate
Joël Robuchon had 32 Michelin stars to his name, spread across three continents, by the time of his death in August 2018 and is often described as the best chef of the modern age. Well, I am pleased to report his legacy lives on at Le Comptoir Robuchon, the Mayfair restaurant the French chef oversaw and approved before he passed away aged 73.
All the classics are there: the langoustine ravioli, the quail with foie gras – and his world-famous silky smooth mashed potatoes. But there is also the humility and quest for perfection that belied his success as the world’s most decorated chef. “There is no such thing as the perfect meal”, he once said. “One can always do better.”
From the moment we wandered into this stylish but comfortable establishment on a rainy lunchtime in May, we felt enveloped in its warm and convivial embrace. The interiors, designed by Thurston, are a glamourous departure from the grey skies outside, all gleaming marble and luxurious rust-coloured velvet upholstery and bespoke Italian chandelier.
The designers could have so easily packed in a few more covers to maximise their profits but have left a delicious open breathing space between the opulent bar and the banquette seating opposite. There is also a 20-seat Calacatta Antico marble counter extending towards the back of the space where diners can engage in the culinary process, whilst indulging in some of London’s finest cuisine.
We were greeted warmly on our arrival, not an inkling of the stuffiness that is sadly sometimes associated with such establishments of haute-cuisine. The experience starts with a glass of Champagne, an indulgence that suited the mood and embarked on a journey that sparked sheer delight.
An exquisite foam of seasonal asparagus to open the palate was followed, in my husband’s case, by la dorade, a sea bream carpaccio with lemon dressing and poppy seeds which resembled a Pollock painting and packed a zesty punch to match. I couldn’t resist the idea of the famous langoustine ravioli with truffle and foie gras sauce, which at £67 a pop is pricey for a starter, but was well worth it. Plump pieces of langoustine lightly enveloped in fresh pasta, drizzled with a rich velouté sauce and washed down with a glass of well-rounded and tasty José Pariente Verdejo 2021. This was indulgence on a plate.
Our mains included the caramelised black cod with Malabar pepper sauce and coconut mousse, paired with a glass of sublime 2020 Ronceray dry Chenin, which delicately cut the saltiness of this exquisite dish. My husband chose another classic, la caille, the quail stuffed with foie gras, decadent and perfectly executed.
Anxious to taste the legendary purée Robuchon, I was assured by the charming maître d’ that “nobody leaves here without tasting the mashed potato,” and taste it we did, this smooth silky concoction, almost as heavy on the butter as it is on the potato, but therein lies its delight. Robuchon created his signature dish out of just four simple ingredients: potatoes, butter, milk and salt but it was representative of his pared-back style which sought to move away from the excesses of traditional fine dining, aiming instead to use no more than three flavours in one dish. “My role as a chef is respecting the produce,” he once said.
It’s a viewpoint that has been embraced by the restaurant’s latest executive chef Andrea Cofini, who worked with the master at L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Paris from 2014 and at Robuchon Shanghai, where under his tenure, it retained its Michelin stars in 2021 and 2022.
“This is also my philosophy,” Cofini says. “If we buy good ingredients, there is no sense in combining too many which might overpower the central flavours. Less is more if you want to create a more refined elegant dish.”
It was important to Robuchon to pass his knowledge on and like many chefs, he did TV shows, books, courses and even advised supermarket brands. As well as Cofini, he trained a whole generation of raw talent including Tom Aikens and Gordon Ramsay, who claimed Robuchon threw a plate of langoustine ravioli at him once for not cooking it properly.
Well, he certainly wouldn’t have thrown mine at the chef, I found a much better place to put it.
Factbox
Address: 6, Clarges Street, London, W1J 8AE
Telephone: 020 8076 0570
Website: robuchonlondon.co.uk
All imagery credit: Le Comptoir Robuchon
