Words by Melissa Richter
Whether you’re traversing the globe in search of the ultimate gourmet experience, or stumbling upon an unassuming local haunt that delights with its unparalleled exceptionalism, few things are as thrilling and satisfying as the sublime pleasure of a well-executed meal.
Such is the case with Maison Dunand. Helmed by leading chef Arnaud Dunand Sauthier, this beautiful French restaurant is a deeply personal expression of who Arnaud is, his roots in the Savoie region of France, and the experience he garnered by heading up some of the world’s finest kitchens, such as Hôtel de Crillon in Paris and Le Normandie, which is recognised as one of the first restaurants in Thailand to earn two coveted Michelin stars.
Nestled along an unassuming street in a mostly residential neighbourhood in Bangkok, you could easily walk past this place every day without ever knowing about the unadulterated culinary pleasures that are served up to contented customers every day. Hidden behind a large wooden gate, the space opens up onto a well-manicured courtyard with a two-story structure that would seamlessly blend in with the chalets found in the French Alps.
The casual comfortability of minimalist Scandinavian design beckons you in with its colour palate of warm naturals, expansive glass windows, stone works, natural fibres, and blonde hardwoods. The space houses both the fine dining restaurant with its four, six or seven-course degustation menus, and an interconnected bistro called Alpea, which boasts an a la carte menu with approachable price points while maintaining the same sophisticated euro-chic vibe.
“Here I am free,” said chef Arnaud. “I can do anything. There are no barriers, I can use my imagination, my memories for my chalet in the mountains and combine Asian products with classic French cooking techniques to create something new.”
I opted for the seven-course degustation menu with wine pairing, and was seated on the first floor with an unobstructed view into the open kitchen where I was able to watch as chef Arnaud and his well-trained staff prepare each dish with such precision, skill and care. The wine pairing was impeccable, and the knowledge and passion of the in-house sommelier was infectious and only heighted that homey feeling of being ‘well taken care of’.
All of the dishes on the menu highlight just three main ingredients. It began with a series of scrumptious savoury bites, and a warm and comforting bouillabaisse, hamachi and radish soup. This was followed by their signature caviar, potato and uni. Perhaps my favourite dish of the night, it is both masterful and ethereal. It expertly enhances each element of the dish without losing the lushness of the individual ingredients. I was equally impressed with the sweet and succulent Hokkaido scallops, cabbage and lardo.
“I am a purest,” asserted Arnaud. “The produce is everything, I am very focused and keep it quite simple. In French cuisine, the sauce is the base but you must let the ingredients shine.”
Another highlight is the personal attention you receive as the chef describes each dish, letting you know where every item was sourced and offering helpful tips on how to approach each dish to maximise your dining pleasure. Each impeccably plated dish is meant to be presented, talked about, and eagerly devoured. Questions are encouraged and, as the wine flows, the evening takes on the distinct feeling of being at a private dinner party.
Every protein from seafood to meat was cooked to perfection with my personal favourites being the Japanese red mullet, mussel and roots, and the pigeon, pumpkin and juniper. The texture on the mullet was brilliantly firm yet juicy, and the briny mussels with the lovely root sauce made for a soulful and provocative combination that I won’t ever forget. Likewise, the delectable pigeon simply stole the show with its glistening ruby-red flesh accompanied by the earthy juniper sauce and delightfully fresh pumpkin.
All good things must come to an end, and this one was bookended by a cheese trolly and a parsnip, caramel and lemon crisp which was a series of thin and delicate crispy layers combined with several yet flavoursome creams piped in between the crisps. Smooth and silky without being too sweet it was a delightful dessert.
The Alps cheese trolly can only be described as mind blowing, with an offering of over 20 hard and soft cheeses to choose from, along with dried fruits, and nuts. I was treated to a bevy of unique cheeses that were locally sourced from Chiang Mai Thailand as well as some beauties that were imported directly from the majestic mountains in the Savoie region of France, where chef Arnaud was born.
In a nutshell
Suffice it to say, Maison Dunand is well deserving of its stellar reputation. Chef Arnaud is the consummate professional, and brings to bear all his expertise in fine dining at this venue. He manages to effortlessly blend casual comfort, luxury service, world-class wines and unforgettable cuisine for one of the best dining experiences you will find in the Bangkok.
Factbox
Address: 55 Sathon Soi 10, Silom, Bang Rak, Bangkok 10500, Thailand
Phone: +66 65 639 0515
Website: maisondunand.com
All imagery credit: Maison Dunand
