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Restaurant Review: Omnino Barbecue, St Paul’s in London

By Georgie Bentley-Buckle   |  

When you think of South American steak, Argentina is the first place to spring to mind. Brazil, however conjures visions of fried food and carbohydrates with not much else. Omnino Barbecue in St Paul’s however set my record straight. A concept revolving around the ‘art of grilling’, with over a decade of combined experience in hospitality, chef Eduardo Barsotti and his partner Ruth Cezar serve high-quality cuts of meat with an authentic barbecue experience reflecting the ‘churrascarias’ of St Paulo and Rio.

Their second outpost that opened back in June last year, this restaurant champions ‘true hospitality’. A dining experience allowing diners to sample a wide variety of their carefully sourced and grilled meats, guests are taken on a table-side culinary journey with locally inspired Brazilian dishes served ‘tapas-style’ with Brazilian desserts and South America’s best wines.

A concept revolving around the ‘art of grilling’, with over a decade of combined experience in hospitality, chef Eduardo Barsotti and his partner Ruth Cezar serve high-quality cuts of meat with an authentic barbecue experience reflecting the ‘churrascarias’ of St Paulo and Rio

The set dinner tasting menu at Omnino Barbecue is built of ten side dishes alongside 12 types of meat, each carved at the table. Starting with a selection of canapés: these include salmon tartare to polenta cakes with shredded pork and empanadas with a filling of beef, escarole and mozzarella along with pincho and provolone cheese.

For the main procession, expect cuts of meat direct to your table from Brazilian Toscana sausage to free-range marinated chicken, a selection of quality beef and roasted pork. Grilled sirloin and rump prelude the final showstoppers: Omnino’s Argentine prime selection – a collection of the finest local favourites including picaña, spicy ribeye and Argentine fillet. This is accompanied with a selection of tapas sides that have been added in to compliment the meats and refresh the palette.

Eduardo and Ruth wanted to create a decadent, yet unpretentious, experience to offer Londoners the true spirit of the Brazilian Barbecue which combines and balances quality, warmth and honest hospitality with service underpinning these core values

The very locally inspired ‘beans with pork’ – (black Beans with farofa) sit alongside small pots of fresh green salad with citrus, garlic rice, grilled root vegetables, tomato and onion salad and roasted sweet potato with chorizo pincho. Giving guests an insight into the rich culinary diversity of Brazil, each fortnight the tapas sides change as Chef Eduardo’s menu explores the various regions of Brazil. To finish, Omnino has created a selection of traditional Brazilian desserts presented with a contemporary style, from tropical guava cheesecake to the rich Brigadeirão (a Brazilian chocolate mousse).

Eduardo and Ruth wanted to create a decadent, yet unpretentious, experience to offer Londoners the true spirit of the Brazilian Barbecue which combines and balances quality, warmth and honest hospitality with service underpinning these core values. Set against a backdrop of elegant black marble and ornate gold detailing, with wooden tables arranged across two floors, Omnino Barbecue wraps itself around a grand sweeping staircase that connects the floors to create a striking atmosphere at night, and throughout the day large windows and glass balconies fill the space with light.

For the main procession, expect cuts of meat direct to your table from Brazilian Toscana sausage to free-range marinated chicken, a selection of quality beef and roasted pork

The set Brazilian Barbecue dinner menu includes starters, full tapas accompaniments, meats and desserts. The lunch menu (available from 12pm to 3pm) offers a scaled-down offering with a smaller meat selection and tapas sides. And for meat-free eaters, there is also pescatarian menu at lunchtime which includes a traditional selection of tapas and a variety of dishes which include charcoal grilled salmon, asparagus, béarnaise, salmon caviar.

Meanwhile, their vegetarian menu similarly offers a selection of tapas and a choice between mains including; ricotta and pecorino tortellini, creamed broccoli and leek. Extending their offering to London’s rapidly growing vegan scene, their vegan menu includes a collection of tapas sides alongside a mushrooms and truffle risotto.

Factbox

Address: 7-9 St. Bride Street London EC4A 4AS
Phone: 020 3490 3132
Website: omninorestaurants.com