Driving through the Latvian countryside to reach Līgatne village is a pleasure, with the tall pines, fir and birch trees towering into the sky lending a magical touch to the mostly flat landscape. Our drive had some spots where you cross lakes and rivers that flow into the Gulf of Riga. As we reached Līgatne, we had to cross a river by a ferry and within five minutes we were at Pavāru māja, a Michelin Green Star restaurant.
The two-storey brick structure is simple and unassuming, and you enter through a small garden that grows vegetables and herbs – most of the restaurant’s ingredients are grown in the garden and served fresh. The nature observation garden is a place to stroll, listen to the birds and relax and holds a few benches and a swing to allow diners to experience nature before stepping inside.
Originally, the building was a maternity hospital and, while renovating it, historical and natural materials were used in the process, such as lime plaster and colours. The historical architecture of the building has been retained in order to continue the existing story of the history of Līgatne. Sober grey interiors with images of the local birds adorn the walls and the large dining area has a limited number of tables with windows which frame the nature outside. A rolled bark of the birch tree holds the cutlery, adding to the sophisticated nature theme of the interiors.
I chose to dine from the lunch menu, which had four-courses, with non-alcoholic wines, and a couple of additions including caviar to indulge. Besides caviar, you can also add Wagyu beef to your meal. There is an impressive list of wines – alcoholic and non-alcoholic – to choose from and they can be paired well with each course. I chose the paired wine set and if you want to add more exclusivity to your meal, there is a choice of the premium wine set.
The entire meal was an experience to cherish, and I was pleasantly surprised to listen to the server explain my meal in English. After devouring the local breads with flavoured butter, it was time for the starter, which was a surprise. It was placed in a glass to resemble a stem with a flower, but was edible and delicious and a good start to a fabulous meal.
Then came the salad which had fresh, spring wild plants with cashew hummus and wild garlic pesto. The right amount of time between courses, about 12 minutes, whets the appetite well and the next course was served – crunchy white asparagus and Rehtspreher cheese – which can be paired with Wagyu beef at an extra cost.
The main course was a winner – redfish with wild broccoli and lightly salted cucumber and you can add to the main course, extra Mottra Premium sterlet caviar – just a tiny serving that is full of flavour. The caviar is served on the back of your palm and just a spoonful, before you dive into the main course, and it’s a taste to revere.
By the main course, I was pretty full, but was looking forward to the dessert – the rhubarb with white chocolate, which proved a fitting grand finale to the meal.
It was almost evening by the time I finished my lunch and it was beautiful to step outside and listen to the birds of the woods with each taste lingering on my palate.
The focus of the restaurant is creating flavours of the region and working with the farmers of Līgatne. When creating the menu, there is an emphasis on the philosophy of slow food and the seasonality of products, preparing them as much as possible from ‘nose to tail’.
The ancient Līgatne sandstone cellars are used for storing farmers’ products and the restaurant makes the best attempt at drawing attention to and restoring disappearing varieties of products characteristic of Latvia – sour cherries, Latvian yellow kale, Burtnieku lake zander, and ancient seeds for herbs and vegetables.
Factbox
Address: Pilsoņu iela 2, Līgatne, Līgatnes pilsēta, Cēsu novads, LV-4110, Latvia
Phone: +371 27 331 222
Website: pavarumaja.lv
All imagery credit: Pavāru māja
