We weave through the charming streets of Nice on a buzzy summer’s evening to one of this French city’s highest restaurants, Peska by La Terrasse. Situated on the 10th floor of the Le Méridien hotel, here is a scenic a destination restaurant offering some of the best rooftop views over the ocean.
Gathering our bearings as we navigate out of the lift, already there is a healthy queue of hopeful diners. With the horizon of the Cote d’azur transforming into hues of dusty pink and orange, from the first impression you would assume the demand is solely for the standout rooftop setting and cool and contemporary set-up beside the hotel’s pool. Working closely with local producers, however, chef Eric Brujan champions a fantastic seafood menu that challenges the restaurant’s beautiful backdrop.
With a passion for the relationships he holds with his producers, head chef Eric Brujan believes that the plate starts with where he sources the ingredients, and its quality is all thanks to them. This thankful ethos and concious focus on sourcing can be tasted in the food he and his team plate up each day. This ensures Peska by La Terrasse withholds a reputation for its food, not simply the setting it is so lucky to accommodate.
Fusing colourful flavours of the Mediterranean elevated with Provençal ingredients that chef Eric personally loves and has carefully selected from his trusted network, the menu at Peska by La Terrasse is filled with dishes all that I would’ve happily ordered. Small plates include a salmon gravlax and a large, soft blini which we layered generously with a soft herb butter followed by a selection of popular favourites, executed excellently. A soft burrata was served with heritage tomatoes, olive cream and balsamic vinegar, ‘le carppacio’ aka a classic, ever so thinly sliced beef carpaccio came with pesto, arugula (rocket to you and me), parmesan shavings and purple artichoke. This was also with a fresh Asian-style red tuna tartare with lightly spiced guacamole.
When it comes to eating out, I’ll admit to usually stepping into my carnivorous shoes, which my partner did with his order of ‘le boeuf’ which he didn’t have much to write home about. This is remember a seafood restaurant, evident from a truly stunning and elegantly named ‘la pêche du jour; Peska by La Terrasse’s catch of the day I chose. This was delicately roasted upon a wonderful creamy pesto risotto with a rich parmesan emulsion; a dish so brilliant I’m tempted to attempt to create myself.
Other plates on this fabulous menu cater to everyone, from those who come for the seafood, extending to pasta dishes, meat and the odd comfort favourite. Other options we’d order (should a re-visit be on the cards) notably include a local sea bream carpaccio from neighbouring Cannes, with passion fruit, pickled vegetables and crispy lace biscuit; or the truffle rigatoni with baby spinach leaves, freshly grated parmesan – a dish which almost swayed me on the night.
Fish dishes likely as brilliant as my fish ‘du jour’ is the pan-seared sea bass fillet, also sourced locally from nearby Cannes, served with an interesting concept of ‘eggplant caviar’, or the shredded saffron cod with a celery root mousseline, coconut milk and glazed vegetables. The menu is tied together elegantly with a sweet carpaccio invention using candied pineapple with coconut sorbet, a rich chocolate and caramel tart, or a raspberry dessert with Bavarian vanilla cream and red fruit coulis.
Seemingly floating above the ocean, whether it’s a spritz at sunset, a regional glass of pale rosé or a three-course meal, I credit this special restaurant far beyond the hotel it is simply attached to. A hot spot for locals and visitors alike, Peska by La Terrasse champions the region’s famous produce to create dishes that celebrate the finest southern French flavours.
Factbox
Address: 1 Promenade des Anglais, Nice, Alpes-Maritimes, France 06000
Phone: +33 4 97 03 40 37
Website: laterrasse-nice.com
All imagery credit: Peska by La Terrasse at Le Méridien Hotel
