In the grand and glorious Bethnal Green Town Hall in East London, Rafael Cagali is making magic happen. Downstairs is his exclusive restaurant Da Terra, a two-Michelin star experience with all the bells and whistles, whilst upstairs, in a stylish and cosy setting, his more casual concept, Elis.
As all guests do when dining at Restaurant Elis – named after Elis Regina, an icon of Brazilian Jazz and Bossa Nova – we made our way through the impressive settings of the former Town Hall come hotel. Here, guests are greeted by oak panelled doors and black marble columns under high vaulting ceilings and arches, such is the grandeur of the space. Yet, it does not feel at all pretentious.
Restaurant Elis shares a space with the Town Hall’s hotel breakfast room and has a warm feeling, with the kitchen right next door. Our welcome was warm, too, as our server regaled us on the night’s tasting menu.
We started the evening with a caipirinha and I’d recommend you do the same. Despite the miserable British weather outside, it transported us immediately to warmer climes. Our visit to Elis came just off the back of dry January and the Caipirinha was the ultimate welcome back beverage. It was sweet yet sour and packed a boozy punch.
The food menu takes its inspiration from Cagali’s Brazilian heritage (he was born in Sāo Paulo) as well as his time in Italy and Spain. The flavours are undoubtedly South American, but the experimental and playful side could well be influenced by Cagali’s time working under TV chef Heston Blumenthal.
Sourdough bread and whipped butter arrived just as hunger threatened to rear its head, marking the start of our tasting experience. It consisted of a starter, main and dessert, with each round made up of several small and large plates.
A three-beetroot salad with candied walnut and smoked ricotta kicked off the starters and bought some welcome health to the table, as the following dishes were indulgently carb-laden. Three cod croquettes followed, which were fluffy on the inside and crunchy on the outer. The waiter informed us that the fish had been salted for three weeks which explained the tasty depth of flavour.
The best things seem to come in threes at Elis – so naturally it was time for one more starter dish. As a pescetarian, I’d opted for a meat-free menu, so next up was a plate of trout ceviche – bitesize cubes of pink fish piled high with grapes, celery and cucumber consommé on a light cracker. It made for an impressive finish to an impressive trio of dishes.
It was at this point that we swapped our caipirinha’s for a light Austrian white, recommended by our waiter. It was fresh, aromatic and the perfect accompaniment to the chef’s flavoursome menu.
Unlike the starters, Cagali’s main courses are centred around one dish – in our case a chunky fillet of pollock – and served with a variety of side dishes allowing diners to build their ideal plate.
Our personal highlights included the creamy braised beans (incredibly morish), bright chimichurri (the perfect accompaniment to every mouthful) and a delicious red and green leaf salad, (topped with crumb for a welcome crunch). It remains one of the best fish plates I’ve had in a while, and weeks on from dining there, I still think about it often.
Despite being rather full, we made room for dessert and on recollection it was impossible to say no to after seeing what the table next door to us tucked into. A plate of bolinho de chuva, a type of deep-fried doughnut, sprinkled with cinnamon and served with doçe de leite, a creamy, indulgent caramelised milk that’s popular in South America. Not a pudding for those who like a light end to their meal, but delicious, nonetheless.
Alongside the doughy goodness, we were also served a blood orange cheesecake, which achieved a happy balance of tart to creamy. It was the ultimate final mouthful.
In a nutshell
Restaurant Elis is a welcome addition to London’s restaurant scene. Here, diners can enjoy a tasting menu that isn’t remotely pretentious but packed with flavour and fun. It’s by no means budget, but it’s far cheaper than a flight to Brazil, and that is a feeling worth paying for.
Factbox
Address: 1st floor, Town Hall Hotel, 8 Patriot Square, London E2 9NF
Phone: 020 7871 0460
Website: restaurantelis.co.uk
Photography courtesy of Restaurant Elis.
